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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Location: Landenberg Pennsylvania, (An hour west of Philly)
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2004 mcs axle nut won't come off.
Help!!! I'm stuck mid project. I'm replacing the left front wheel hub and bearing. I have the tire off, caliper tied up, disc off(yeah I had to drill it out). I'm looking at the hub and axle nut. I don't have air at my new house yet, so I haven't tried that yet, I can't get this axle nut off. Did I miss something in my research? Is it reverse thread? I have tapped the stake out so that it isn't in the way. I'm replacing the hardware so I'm not worried about that, just don't want to take a chisel to the axle nut with the shaft right there. What did I miss? Retorque is 134 ft lbs I think so it shouldn't be that hard to get off. I put creeping oil in it an hour ago. Still not budging. I did search the forums but didn't find this answer. Thanks.
Location: Landenberg Pennsylvania, (An hour west of Philly)
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Ok, I have now put the entire thing back together and tried to break it free using a half inch drive and an 18 inch cheater bar. Wheels on the ground e brake on. Am I the only one having a love / hate thing when I work on my Cooper?
Cars come into the shop here and we have to use a 4 foot pipe to get some of them off Guess some shops either dont have a torque wrench or they do but they just stay in the tool box You have tapped the dimple out correct?
The are standard righty tighty. I used a 1/2in Ingersoll Rand to get it off. You dont have that option regrettably so you could try a bit of heat. Just make sure not to use to much or you could cook the wheel bearing.
Location: Landenberg Pennsylvania, (An hour west of Philly)
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Cooper 3 Chris 0, it has drawn first blood. Done for the night, bringing home the big fu****g breaker bar from work tomorrow. I used mapp gas. It didn't approve. The cheater bar slipped and took a chunk from my palm.
Well I would stay away from that as most likely thats what caused his pain in the first place We use a .75 drive on a 2 foot breaker and add pipe accordingly Impacts are a no..no on Minis
Cooper 3 Chris 0, it has drawn first blood. Done for the night, bringing home the big fu****g breaker bar from work tomorrow. I used mapp gas. It didn't approve. The cheater bar slipped and took a chunk from my palm.
Time to go Rambo on it. "It drew first blood!"
Good luck! (and wear gloves!)
Well I would stay away from that as most likely thats what caused his pain in the first place We use a .75 drive on a 2 foot breaker and add pipe accordingly Impacts are a no..no on Minis
Even to get the nut undone? I won't argue with not using a impact wrench for tightening.
I have the old fashioned "hit with a hammer" impact driver that I use on stubborn stuff.
Location: Landenberg Pennsylvania, (An hour west of Philly)
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Work has kept me busy. It's in the garage with a 3/4 inch drive and 5 ft breaker bar sitting next to it. Borrowed them from a buddy that works on tractors. That bolt is coming off in the next day or two.
Work has kept me busy. It's in the garage with a 3/4 inch drive and 5 ft breaker bar sitting next to it. Borrowed them from a buddy that works on tractors. That bolt is coming off in the next day or two.
This is cool thread kinda like a drama Give that nut heck tomorrow
Location: Landenberg Pennsylvania, (An hour west of Philly)
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I took time away from work today to try again. It was me and a 5ft breaker bar versus the nut. My kids were huddling at the door to the house, knowing this thing had made me bleed and cuss. After about 20 degrees of flex in the breaker bar the nut gave with a resounding crack. They cheered. I've never been applauded before for taking a nut off of a half shaft. When this is all said and done I'm posting a "how to" for all of the other fools taking this project on. If I ever catch a mechanic using an impact wrench on my car again I might just break his fingers.
I've got one now that was put on and spun on the threads. I backed it off with my 3/4 drive, 4ft. bar, but the threads are toast. I'm hoping to save the driveshaft by rethreading since the owner can't afford a new one. The shop that did it also cross-threaded one of the wheel bolts and it broke while removing it. Good thing I was replacing the hub/bearing anyway.