It was working fine earlier today, It seems to have a mind of its own most of the time anyhow but now it will only open via the fob. I can un lock the doors, throw the switch on the console and it flat out wont open via using the boot latch. Any ideas? I did a search and came up with hard opening but this again, wont open. Please help!

 

I'm gonna state the obvious, just in case...but the boot latch only depresses on the right side, not all the way across the latch area. Are you sure you are completely unlocking the car before trying to unlatch the boot manually? If you unlock via the fob (with two clicks) then flip the inner switch, you run the risk of relocking.

 

Gonna go try it again but I've tried every blessed combination you can think of. Checked and double checked. On the fuse panel I noticed there are 3 fuses that have a "lock" symbol on them. Gonna go check the fuses just for kicks and giggles.

 

Yeah, I've noticed I needed some "remedial training" in the BMW mindset on door unlocking with my MINI...

I had been used to an older GMC Jimmy SUV, that when you unlocked just the driver's side door (remaining doors could still be locked), the rear hatch (window and all) was available to open as well... The boot on my Clubman seems to require that all doors be unlocked (via the interior switch or two presses of the key fob "unlock" button) before you can even use the manual release handle on the right-hand barn door; and you can't just get out of the car after having been driving it (doors have auto-locked, you exit with two pulls on the interior door handle) and expect to walk around and open the barn doors... Kind of annoying, I'll agree (Blast! Now I've got to walk back to the driver's side, reach back inside the car, grab the fob; or flip the toggle switch on the dash, visually verify that I didn't re-lock the doors [as "wandrur" points out], maybe flip the toggle again if the doors did re-lock; then go back to the boot and open the barn doors like I'd wanted to in the first place...).

But that's not to say that you may have a genuine issue with the latch handle on the barn door.

 

I had the same issue. I took it to the dealer eventually and they fixed it. It was simply a switch of some kind that had to be replaced and was repaired under warranty.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I've tried every combination again, stood on one leg while turning to the right while pushine the unlock buttons and still no luck. Got an appointment for Bu to go in on Monday and will have it taken care of then. Have a few other issues for them to check too. Sounds like the clutch release bearing is knocking, also have the cold start noise I believe everybody refers to as the death rattle. I love my MINI but I really should have looked the car over better and drove it more before purchasing it. Thank God it has warranty left and I bought extended warranty as well.

 

Damn. Was hoping it was an easy fix. Good luck!

 

I had the same problem with my boot latch. I took it into the dealer and they are going to replace the entire latch assembly on warranty. They said the switch failed, sounded like a common problem. My car has 37K on and the warranty expired at 36K, but they warrantied the part. The part has to be painted the same color to match your car. They are sending me the part since I live 250 miles away from the dealership.

 

WOW, I love my mini but I've got to say... I'm not sure I'd own a mini if the nearest dealer was 250 miles away. That's 4 hours

Mark

 

Wow, I didn't realize the latch was part of that whole assembly with the license plate lights. Maybe they'll offer one to me in CF so it doesn't have to go to the paint shop. I'd rather it be CF than a poorly matched paint job which I can almost guarantee.

 

Though the handle may only come as an assy, chances are you can reuse the old handle.

 

Not to bring up an old topic but I totally DIDN'T KNOW that the handle only depressed on the right side. I always thought it was an electronic pressure switch so I always pressed really hard in the middle and hoped for the best. Sometimes it released, sometimes not and I thought I had a sensor issue so I always used the remote. *Sigh*.

 

Hmmmm, I remember them demo'ing the key fob way and the boot latch way to open the tailgate when I picked up my MINI, but I thought I was imagining things afterwards because I could only get it to open using the key fob. I went out just now and tried using the latch and it opened one time out of about 30 different attempts. So now I know I'm not crazy!

For those who had their's replaced under warranty, was it an easy fix or did it take some time for them to get your MINI back to you?

 

Your Free Maintenance Plan ran out at 36k But your Warranty is longer than that at 50K

 

I have a 2007 Cooper S with 48,000 miles. The release on the hatch recently stopped working and now will only open the key fob. After reviewing the forum it appears I required the entire trim with license plate light and microswitch.
Two questions: 1. Schatzy 62 states warranty is valid til 50K miles. Is the warranty unlimited time?
2. Does anyone have the part number for the replacement part?
Thanks

 

I know that this is a very old post but I had the same on my 2010 Mini recently. It turned out to be a micro switch on the boot/trunk latch. BMW's only solution was to replace the full assembly (which includes the licence plate lights). Being that the car was out of warranty that was a very expensive part. So I took mine to pieces and using an electrical tester was able to confirm that the micro-switch which is activated by the soft touch button was defective. I managed to solder in a replacement switch. It was quite easy. They are available on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133654122469 It has worked fine ever since.