Help!!

2005 MCS, only about 28K miles... This is my main car, driven 4-5 times a week. Drove it around all day today, then parked it for a few hours. When I went to drive off, car would not start. I get all electrics (interior lights, bells/dings, radio and headlamps appear to be on and running strong) but turning the key does NOTHING - no crank, no nothing beyond a little click.

Can't be fuses because the electric would be out... Don't think it's a starter because of the low mileage and because it always starts flawlessly. I unhooked the battery ground and let it sit for 5 minutes in case it was a stuck immobilizer or something (reaching, I know...)

The car IS 5 years old... how long to the batteries generally last before needing to be replaced? Seems like some people with these symptoms were fixed with a new battery while others were not.

Thanks!!

 

5 years is a good run for an OEM battery. And they do tend to fail completely at times so that is "probably" your problem.

I have an Optima 34R in Artoo and it has great poser and works flawlessly. But there are all sorts of other opinions out there as to what to get. For me, the Optima was well worth the extra cash. And the 34R fits perfectly.

Rich

PS-I guess one way to tell if it is indeed the battery is to jump the car. If it starts, then it most assuredly is the battery.

 

Yeah I thought of that - I'll try it. I hear good things about the Optima red top... Just need to see if anyone local carries it, in case that's not the issue and I have to return it. Although for only about $177 it's not a big deal if I get it and that's still not the issue, I guess. Thanks!!

 

AutoZone carries OPTIMA but they may have to order the 34R

If the car will jump it is probably the battery

if the car won't jump it may STILL be the battery. I've twice had the battery go bad and be SO bad it wouldn't jump but all is fine once a new battery is put in. You can check for this by completely removing the suspect battery and using jumpers to the cables and any battery of sufficient cranking power - even if it does not fit in the battery box. Once you verify the car starts you know what you need to fix things.

 

Local auto parts store should be able to test the battery if you can get the car or the battery to them.

My local Advance Auto had a 34R Optima on the shelf the day I needed it - lucky.

I think my battery's OK - it just ran down due to idling in a parade for an hour with all the lights on (including rally lights), radio, etc. But it was 3+ years old and I used it as an excuse to upgrade to the Redtop.

When I've jumped MINIs (and some other late-model cars) with depleted batteries, I've had to hook them up with jumpers and let them charge for 15 minutes or so before the car would jumpstart. If the battery is low enough, it won't jump just off cables. At least the ones I've tried didn't.

 

Matt I answered in your other thread...

You can find them locally.

 

Car started right up on a jump, so I'm assuming it's a battery. My local Autozone carries the Red Top, however they cautioned that the Optima batteries are no longer made in the USA - now they're made in Mexico, and apparently there have been some performance issues. Optima still carries the 3-year warranty however, and I figure with the MINI being so finicky about the battery, if I have any issues, they'll likely be in the warranty period

Thanks, all!!

 

hmm

checking the technical specs page for the 34R on OPTIMA's site they list place of manufacture as





United States of America

not that I'd question the person behind the counter at AutoZone

btw the factory direct price is $193 including shipping ($10 shipping right now) ... since this is a sealed/non spill able battery shipping is not a problem.

Which by the way is why many car freaks, especially hot rodder and classic guys like these batteries.....not that they are stronger or last longer but they can't leak or spill & don't vent gas . . . I just swapped out the one I have in the 79 .... it was 5 years old and I think 5 years is good for any battery.

And for those who want to learn more: http://hubpages.com/hub/Choosing-a-Car-Battery---Guide

 

Batteries Plus said the same thing about the Optima for whatever that's worth...

This is weird, though - the battery load tested fine on their little tester machine. It only had 51% charge, but the amps were fine. They put it on a charger for 30 minutes and it was back to 92% charge. I put it back in the car to see what would happen and it fired right up...

Does anyone know where I can test the output voltage from the alternator and what it should read? I've got a DC voltmeter - am I just looking for 12v consistently? If the alternator were undercharging, wouldn't I get a code and a Check Engine light?

 

Stick a multimeter on the battery with the car off and you should get approximately 12.5 to 13 volts. Start the car and stick a multimeter on the battery and you should see 13.5 to 14.7 volts which would be the regulated alternator output.

 

It's reading 12.5 with the car off, and 14.2 running, just as it should. Odd, but at least the charging system seems to be working.

 

To verify your battery is in great condition you need to measure the battery terminal voltage while it is delivering current to start the engine. Disable the ignition so the car won't start up and test for 15 seconds.... the battery terminal voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts during the test cycle. Open circuit battery terminal voltage is not a test of battery condition.

Johnson Controls is responsible for both the Optima battery line and Autozone's Duralast Gold batteries. The Colorado plant that was referenced that used to build the Optima batteries is closed and the operation moved to Mexico , this move caused me to look elsewhere when I replace the original battery in my 2004 MCS.

Since Johnson Controls manufactures both the Duralast Gold and Optima batteries I suspect the Duralast Gold is also made in Old Mexico but haven't been able to confirm this. I did check the battery case on the Duralast Gold H5 DLG and cannot any markings that indicated it was made in Mexico so I may go with that battery unless I find out differently.

I am very careful since the last battery I bought for a different car was an Interstate battery and found out after buying it that it was made in Mexico. I don't like to buy from an USA company and then find out they are only an importer. Getting very difficult to find a truly USA product.

 

So, according to the Optima website there is no vehicle application for a MINI at all.

Can someone confirm that the 34R Red Top is still a direct drop in for my R53?

 

I put a 34R Optima in my 06 R53. It was a bolt in, with a spacer being added under the oem bracket to get a tight fit. Make a spacer piece out of wood, 2 minute job.

 

So, was it the battery? Mine will start sometimes and not others.
Has enough juice to drop the top on the cabrio and doesn't test week, but it is old.

 

After I changed the battery, all of my problems went away. Mine would still start, but the gauges were doing all sorts of funky things on startup.