So the battery shaped light came on. The power steering is dead as can be so I assume the pump is fried.
I've seen reports of bad pumps melting the extricat connectors.
I assume next step is remove pump and see if the light goes away.
Then check if I'm getting 14v wither the engine running.
If the alternator system was damaged by long term excessive draw from bad power steering pumps. What's the next step? How do I find out if it's the alternator or charging circuit?
Where is the charging circuit?

 

So, just throwing ideas out there, I have seen where instances with the battery light on and the p/s not working was due to a bad alternator. Did the p/s and battery light coming on occur at the same time? Test the alternator, here is a good DIY with info and the replacement if needed.

 

The light came on as I pulled into work parking lot. Power steering was fine but loudly whining as it had since first installing a reman unit in June.
After work no power steering light still on. I risked driving the 4mi home from work without power steering.
The car ran fine just no power steering (also didn't risk running radio or heater/ac fans)
I assume I can pull the ps fuse and see if that effects the performance of the alt.
Don't really have time to dig in tonight. Went ahead and ordered ps pump as it's been an ongoing problem.

 

Not sure if this will help, but found some good info at post #4 here. The p/s issue could be contributing to the alternator issue. Since you have the pump on order, see what happens once you replace it.

 

The pump won't be in for 4-6 business days. I want/need the car running asap. If the alternator needs replacing I want to replace it before the pump arrives. I may be able to install an alternator this weekend if I can get the parts.

 

The light is off!
I replaced the alternator. Here's the catch with the power steering pump disconnected the voltage is 14v. With the pump connected and the car still on jack stands (no weight on wheels) the voltage drops to 13.85 and the pump is whining away.
I'm guessing this isn't normal is it? I'm thinking pump problems are why I needed the alternator

So do I leave the car on jacks until the new pump arrives sometime next week or do I drive it around risking a few days of strain on my shiny new alternator?
This is my only car but I can bike around ok

Also I blew the cigarette lighter fuse. I shorted it out because I didn't want to get out of the drivers seat to check the voltage. Doh! So if you happen to know which fuse that was...

 

I would go for a drive ..
Sounds pretty normal...
Bet the pump is fine till proven bad...
Remember the pump is a BIG AC draw ...so voltage drop is normal with it running...
And it is MADE to shut off I'd the alternator fails
It is unlikely both the pump and the alternator failed AT THE SAME TIME.....it is made to shutoff if the alternator fails to extend you driving time with a failed alternator....that's why it has a sense wire....
The PS pump works in two modes...a low draw more, and a hi draw mode, depending on what computer chips in it tell it what might be needed (low speed, high power..like for parking, higher speed, lower draw/power, like when cruising)....
Don't over think stuff...
An alternator failed...replace it...and go for a test drive....

 

I believe the cigarette lighter fuse is F32, 15A.