Cold Start Issues Database
#51
I would not drive the car until the "noise" stops.
Just let it idle and gently go up and down from idle to approx 1,500 rpm, once the oil pumps up in the HLA’s (in a couple of minutes) the "noise" will go away as your valves will be working properly. Back to happy Motoring once more !!
The lack of power and sputtering is due to the valves not opening correctly and this could be very dangerous if someone is pulling out of their driveway!!!
Spectral G., I completely agree with you, as this happened again to me last Monday after I backed the Mini into the garage from the driveway Sunday night, next day woosh… I had to just sit and wait for it to stop.
As for the Dealer they said there was no point as it was a “cold start” issue and it would be hot once I got there…??? Anyway I too am not dropping it off for them to fool w/it until they have a “real” fix.
Guess it will take someone pulling out in front of traffic and having it do a nose dive and well you know the rest… to get attention to the issue, just like the exhaust tips burning a few people ?
All said, I still love this car and have no buyers remorse (yet)
Just let it idle and gently go up and down from idle to approx 1,500 rpm, once the oil pumps up in the HLA’s (in a couple of minutes) the "noise" will go away as your valves will be working properly. Back to happy Motoring once more !!
The lack of power and sputtering is due to the valves not opening correctly and this could be very dangerous if someone is pulling out of their driveway!!!
Spectral G., I completely agree with you, as this happened again to me last Monday after I backed the Mini into the garage from the driveway Sunday night, next day woosh… I had to just sit and wait for it to stop.
As for the Dealer they said there was no point as it was a “cold start” issue and it would be hot once I got there…??? Anyway I too am not dropping it off for them to fool w/it until they have a “real” fix.
Guess it will take someone pulling out in front of traffic and having it do a nose dive and well you know the rest… to get attention to the issue, just like the exhaust tips burning a few people ?
All said, I still love this car and have no buyers remorse (yet)
I just dropped my car at Southbay MINI here in socal. The tech told me he has replaced tensioning belt or something. He says that he is finding "old" parts that BMW replaced on new MINI randomly and causing this noise issue. He says that when it losens or slackens, it doesnt pump up enough oil to lubricate therefore creates that sound until things get warmed up.
Seems like he knows what he has to do on my MINI. And he loves modifying it like me!! We talked briefly about suspension mod and wheels.
Ill let you guys know when i get my car back.
#52
#53
I think i have it!
So last year my car did it once, but never again. But last night it was cold again
Model: Cooper S (coupe)
Build Date: Feb 2007
Miles: 26000
Duration: 2-3 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) rare, once last year and this is the first time since. (10 months ago approx)
RPM range: idle - 2000?
Ambient Temp: 34'ish but over night temps were below freezing
Oil: Whatever mini puts in. (i hate how that sounds)
Video of issue
http://flickr.com/photos/willsisti/2984448695/
Model: Cooper S (coupe)
Build Date: Feb 2007
Miles: 26000
Duration: 2-3 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) rare, once last year and this is the first time since. (10 months ago approx)
RPM range: idle - 2000?
Ambient Temp: 34'ish but over night temps were below freezing
Oil: Whatever mini puts in. (i hate how that sounds)
Video of issue
http://flickr.com/photos/willsisti/2984448695/
#54
I would not drive the car until the "noise" stops.
Just let it idle and gently go up and down from idle to approx 1,500 rpm, once the oil pumps up in the HLA’s (in a couple of minutes) the "noise" will go away as your valves will be working properly. Back to happy Motoring once more !!
The lack of power and sputtering is due to the valves not opening correctly and this could be very dangerous if someone is pulling out of their driveway!!!
Just let it idle and gently go up and down from idle to approx 1,500 rpm, once the oil pumps up in the HLA’s (in a couple of minutes) the "noise" will go away as your valves will be working properly. Back to happy Motoring once more !!
The lack of power and sputtering is due to the valves not opening correctly and this could be very dangerous if someone is pulling out of their driveway!!!
#55
This sounds like a similar problem to the first gen Eclipse turbo I had. Would periodically get some grinding noise from the engine. Turned out is was the tensioner not working all the time and let the timing belt flap against the casing.
Some chain and belt tensioners are merely spring loaded. Others are more complicated as they actually use oil pressure to provide the tension. Not sure which the MINI has.
Some chain and belt tensioners are merely spring loaded. Others are more complicated as they actually use oil pressure to provide the tension. Not sure which the MINI has.
#56
I would only hope it is that simple, however I have read other posts where they have changed the tensioner and with-in a short time the HLA's starving for oil once more issue came back.
Please believe me, this noise is from the valve's, and having changed a few spring and or oil (hydraulic) dampened tensioners (not on Minis) they were on Porsche, BMW & Jag’s, and none of the bad one’s EVER made this kind of sound.
I would think a loose (un-tensioned) timing belt would certainly produce poor performance and possible valve damage but not Valve slap as that is a different mechanism and I don’t see how the two would be related (oil pressure yes, but not a loose timing belt).
There is a great write up on the Mi Mini clubs thread.
Please read.
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=3115.15
Thank you for you comments.. !
Please believe me, this noise is from the valve's, and having changed a few spring and or oil (hydraulic) dampened tensioners (not on Minis) they were on Porsche, BMW & Jag’s, and none of the bad one’s EVER made this kind of sound.
I would think a loose (un-tensioned) timing belt would certainly produce poor performance and possible valve damage but not Valve slap as that is a different mechanism and I don’t see how the two would be related (oil pressure yes, but not a loose timing belt).
There is a great write up on the Mi Mini clubs thread.
Please read.
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=3115.15
Thank you for you comments.. !
#57
I would only hope it is that simple, however I have read other posts where they have changed the tensioner and with-in a short time the HLA's starving for oil once more issue came back.
Please believe me, this noise is from the valve's, and having changed a few spring and or oil (hydraulic) dampened tensioners (not on Minis) they were on Porsche, BMW & Jag’s, and none of the bad one’s EVER made this kind of sound.
I would think a loose (un-tensioned) timing belt would certainly produce poor performance and possible valve damage but not Valve slap as that is a different mechanism and I don’t see how the two would be related (oil pressure yes, but not a loose timing belt).
There is a great write up on the Mi Mini clubs thread.
Please read.
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=3115.15
Please believe me, this noise is from the valve's, and having changed a few spring and or oil (hydraulic) dampened tensioners (not on Minis) they were on Porsche, BMW & Jag’s, and none of the bad one’s EVER made this kind of sound.
I would think a loose (un-tensioned) timing belt would certainly produce poor performance and possible valve damage but not Valve slap as that is a different mechanism and I don’t see how the two would be related (oil pressure yes, but not a loose timing belt).
There is a great write up on the Mi Mini clubs thread.
Please read.
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=3115.15
EXCESSIVE ENGINE RATTLE ON COLD START
Customer complaint
Customer may complain that there is an excessive engine rattle on cold start, especially if the vehicle is left for several day's. The noise is simular to a "Diesal type noise" on cold start.
Solution Status
The noise described above may be related to a faulty timing chain tensioner mechanism, however it is very importnat that the vehicle is tested by the workshop first to determine that there is a specific problem. For example there is a potentional noise that may be coming from the vacuum pump which is normal operation. The technicians must refer to PuMA Measure 10686850 for the latest information.
Should the workshop determine that there is a noise that can be attributed to the timing chain tensioner fault, then there are two stages of repair available.
Vehicles produced up to 30.04.07 - replacement of timing chain tensioner/chain/guides and sprockets will resolve the problem. Please refer to PuMA Measure 10686850
Vehicles produced from 01.05.07 - A modified timing chain tensioner assembly will not be available untill approx December 08.The noise is not detrimental to the life or operation of the engine and is purely an acoustic issue. Please refer to PuMA Measure 10686850.
Customer complaint
Customer may complain that there is an excessive engine rattle on cold start, especially if the vehicle is left for several day's. The noise is simular to a "Diesal type noise" on cold start.
Solution Status
The noise described above may be related to a faulty timing chain tensioner mechanism, however it is very importnat that the vehicle is tested by the workshop first to determine that there is a specific problem. For example there is a potentional noise that may be coming from the vacuum pump which is normal operation. The technicians must refer to PuMA Measure 10686850 for the latest information.
Should the workshop determine that there is a noise that can be attributed to the timing chain tensioner fault, then there are two stages of repair available.
Vehicles produced up to 30.04.07 - replacement of timing chain tensioner/chain/guides and sprockets will resolve the problem. Please refer to PuMA Measure 10686850
Vehicles produced from 01.05.07 - A modified timing chain tensioner assembly will not be available untill approx December 08.The noise is not detrimental to the life or operation of the engine and is purely an acoustic issue. Please refer to PuMA Measure 10686850.
#59
Just did it today for the first time
2008 MCSa build of 07/08 with 2,100 miles
NYC avg. temps. today 47-50 degrees.
**Drove around for about 5 minutes total this morning before parking it.
**Parked from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. then it happened upon startup for about 2/3 minutes. Sounded very bad.
2008 MCSa build of 07/08 with 2,100 miles
NYC avg. temps. today 47-50 degrees.
**Drove around for about 5 minutes total this morning before parking it.
**Parked from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. then it happened upon startup for about 2/3 minutes. Sounded very bad.
#60
I'm certainly no mechanic or expert, but if this was a chain issue, wouldn't it happen more often or at more random times? Like I said, I can get the car to do it every time. And I also can avoid the issue too by avoiding all short bursts of starting and stopping the car. Would seem to me a chain problem would not be influenced by that. Or maybe these are two different issues entirely? I dunno. All I know is that they need a real fix.
#61
I've had my "post-May-build" knock verified, several times. They were nice enough to bleed the hydraulic tensioner the first time, then replace it the second time, all to no avail. My little MINI doesn't usually sit long enough for this to be a regular problem, but with the first cold snaps finally blowing through San Francisco, she started clattering again. I took her in for the third time to get this fixed and this was their reply:
"COMPLETED SEVERAL COLD START CHECKS AND WAS UNABLE TO CONFIRM ANY EXCESSIVE KNOCKING NOISE. MADE SURE OIL LEVEL IS UP TO SPEC AND PERFORMED BLEEDING PROCEDURE TO ELIMINATE ANY AIR IN THE OIL THAT WOULD HINDER FLOW OF OIL THROUGHOUT THE ENGINE/OIL PUMP.
NO FURTHER CORRECTION NEEDED AT THIS TIME. NO PROBLEMS FOUND. RECOMMEND CUSTOMER MONITOR."
Seriously? What a croc. I have an established problem with a work history, and I got an oil change. When I asked about a more permanent solution, I was told that they were still working on it which, I guess, backs up the Puma statement.
"COMPLETED SEVERAL COLD START CHECKS AND WAS UNABLE TO CONFIRM ANY EXCESSIVE KNOCKING NOISE. MADE SURE OIL LEVEL IS UP TO SPEC AND PERFORMED BLEEDING PROCEDURE TO ELIMINATE ANY AIR IN THE OIL THAT WOULD HINDER FLOW OF OIL THROUGHOUT THE ENGINE/OIL PUMP.
NO FURTHER CORRECTION NEEDED AT THIS TIME. NO PROBLEMS FOUND. RECOMMEND CUSTOMER MONITOR."
Seriously? What a croc. I have an established problem with a work history, and I got an oil change. When I asked about a more permanent solution, I was told that they were still working on it which, I guess, backs up the Puma statement.
#62
But it's not "purely an acoustic issue" when the car sputters, spurts and practically stalls as I try to back out of the garage. At least in my case anyway.
I'm certainly no mechanic or expert, but if this was a chain issue, wouldn't it happen more often or at more random times? Like I said, I can get the car to do it every time. And I also can avoid the issue too by avoiding all short bursts of starting and stopping the car. Would seem to me a chain problem would not be influenced by that. Or maybe these are two different issues entirely? I dunno. All I know is that they need a real fix.
I'm certainly no mechanic or expert, but if this was a chain issue, wouldn't it happen more often or at more random times? Like I said, I can get the car to do it every time. And I also can avoid the issue too by avoiding all short bursts of starting and stopping the car. Would seem to me a chain problem would not be influenced by that. Or maybe these are two different issues entirely? I dunno. All I know is that they need a real fix.
Anyway, when the temperature's are hot, the oil flows freely throughout the engine, pumps up the tensioner within a few revolutions, and you never hear it. When the temps drop, the oil gets thicker and doesn't flow to all the nooks and crannies easilly, thereby starving the tensioner of the oil it needs to put tension on the timing chain. Clatter-city! In a couple of minutes of running, the engine starts warming up, oil flows better, gets into the tensioner assembly, pumps it up, and the knocking goes away. I'm not sure whats taking them so long to fix this since it's such a simple problem.
I've rebuilt enough engines in my time to be concerned about the long-term effects of this problem. A slapping timing chain wears away at the walls of the chamber it sits in. A loose chain also means that the timing of the valves is off which causes the engine to run rough. Luckilly, it's not bad enough to cause the valves to be off so much as to slap against the piston heads, causing catastrophic damage. Either way, I'd really like MINI to just replace my damned tensioner with a nice, strong, spring-loaded one. They work forever and don't have these kinds of problems!
#63
I wanted to do my own experiment on the theory that short engine run with extended rest afterwards causes loud engine chatter the next time engine is started.
Day 1 night: before I went to sleep, I started the engine (cold) and ran it for less than 10 seconds in the garage.
Day 2 morning: started the engine after it's been cold for over 8 hours, and within 3 seconds, the loud chatter began. I immediately shut the engine off, waited 15 seconds before I restarted the engine. Noise is gone. Went about my day.
Day 2 night: repeated the procedure from day 1 night.
Day 3 morning: started the engine and there's chatter noise upon initial couple of seconds, but not as bad as the noise from previous morning. The noise dissipated a little, but I turned off the engine anyway and waited few seconds. Restarted the engine and no chatter.
So for now, if I encounter engine chatter again, I'm going to shut the engine off and restart it after waiting for a few seconds. This doesn't fix the original problem, but until MINI has a permanent fix, it's a viable remedy for temporarily eliminating the noise.
Day 1 night: before I went to sleep, I started the engine (cold) and ran it for less than 10 seconds in the garage.
Day 2 morning: started the engine after it's been cold for over 8 hours, and within 3 seconds, the loud chatter began. I immediately shut the engine off, waited 15 seconds before I restarted the engine. Noise is gone. Went about my day.
Day 2 night: repeated the procedure from day 1 night.
Day 3 morning: started the engine and there's chatter noise upon initial couple of seconds, but not as bad as the noise from previous morning. The noise dissipated a little, but I turned off the engine anyway and waited few seconds. Restarted the engine and no chatter.
So for now, if I encounter engine chatter again, I'm going to shut the engine off and restart it after waiting for a few seconds. This doesn't fix the original problem, but until MINI has a permanent fix, it's a viable remedy for temporarily eliminating the noise.
#64
A loose chain also means that the timing of the valves is off which causes the engine to run rough. Luckilly, it's not bad enough to cause the valves to be off so much as to slap against the piston heads, causing catastrophic damage. Either way, I'd really like MINI to just replace my damned tensioner with a nice, strong, spring-loaded one. They work forever and don't have these kinds of problems!
To reaffirm 'NO' to the timing being affected as the tensioner mechanism is on the slack side of the gear and the timing is governed by the other side. Damage occurs if the chain jumps as stated before, or is so slack as to allow it to hit the cover and eventually cut through. All highly unlikely.
#65
I wondered about the timing being off because of the slack in the chain, but when I asked the question on Mini2 I was corrected by a couple of seemingly knowlegable members that the timing would not be affected. One of the answers was as follows:
Of course, these members could be wrong, but it does seem to explain how MINI/BMW can claim there is no damage being done.
Of course, these members could be wrong, but it does seem to explain how MINI/BMW can claim there is no damage being done.
#66
R56 Cold Start Issues?
Nothing like what the earlier posts describe; what I'm dealing with is:
36+K US miles since taking delivery April 2007; with the onset of cooler weather here in the US Midwest my 2007 S has developed a severe cold-start problem.
2 weeks ago dealer replaced 2 ignition coils, to no good effect. It's back at the dealer today & I ALMOST couldn't get it to run this morning at all... took 17 tries before it would run by itself long enough for me to reverse out of my driveway. This MINI lives outside. Never seen the inside of a garage except at the dealer's. Was fine last winter, save for one brief spell in February where an iced-up air metering valve syndrome was evident.
Runs awful when it runs, sounds like it's firing on maybe one or two cylinders tops, then it slowly dies. Yellow engine outline lamp is lit when it's warmed up enough to finally be drive-able. No weird noises though, just runs terrible until it's got a few degrees of warmth to it.
Once it's warmed up it runs OK. Mileage isn't too bad (31+ by the OBC) & I've burned PB Gold 99% of the fuel it's burned since taking delivery.
Anyone have similar experience to share?
36+K US miles since taking delivery April 2007; with the onset of cooler weather here in the US Midwest my 2007 S has developed a severe cold-start problem.
2 weeks ago dealer replaced 2 ignition coils, to no good effect. It's back at the dealer today & I ALMOST couldn't get it to run this morning at all... took 17 tries before it would run by itself long enough for me to reverse out of my driveway. This MINI lives outside. Never seen the inside of a garage except at the dealer's. Was fine last winter, save for one brief spell in February where an iced-up air metering valve syndrome was evident.
Runs awful when it runs, sounds like it's firing on maybe one or two cylinders tops, then it slowly dies. Yellow engine outline lamp is lit when it's warmed up enough to finally be drive-able. No weird noises though, just runs terrible until it's got a few degrees of warmth to it.
Once it's warmed up it runs OK. Mileage isn't too bad (31+ by the OBC) & I've burned PB Gold 99% of the fuel it's burned since taking delivery.
Anyone have similar experience to share?
#67
#68
3 times now!!
Model: 2007 R56 S
Build Date: 10/07
Miles: 15,430
Duration: 3-5 mins
Frequency: 2 times in 2 weeks and once this past summer
RPM range: initial start up from idle up to 3000-4000 rpm
Ambient Temp: 35-45
Oil: full and changed 2 days ago
Any other relevant information:
Car is always garaged and all three occurances were on initial start up and idle after car sitting overnight. The sound is just awful and I'm very disappointed. It sounds like the engine is going to blow up. MINI must stand up and take care of this issue.
Build Date: 10/07
Miles: 15,430
Duration: 3-5 mins
Frequency: 2 times in 2 weeks and once this past summer
RPM range: initial start up from idle up to 3000-4000 rpm
Ambient Temp: 35-45
Oil: full and changed 2 days ago
Any other relevant information:
Car is always garaged and all three occurances were on initial start up and idle after car sitting overnight. The sound is just awful and I'm very disappointed. It sounds like the engine is going to blow up. MINI must stand up and take care of this issue.
#69
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Your Worst Nightmare :)
Posts: 3,880
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3 Posts
Im waiting for the first 2009 owner to chime in with this issue, and I hope it's not me.
My SA, however, said the cold start problems they've dealt with have all been 07s and early 08 builds--inc a couple of their 08 justacooper demos bulit last Jan--and was told that if this happens let him know immediately. And he knew nothing about any redesigned parts, and Dec 08 is nigh...
For those that have it, I wonder if a block heater would help??
My SA, however, said the cold start problems they've dealt with have all been 07s and early 08 builds--inc a couple of their 08 justacooper demos bulit last Jan--and was told that if this happens let him know immediately. And he knew nothing about any redesigned parts, and Dec 08 is nigh...
For those that have it, I wonder if a block heater would help??
#70
Model: 2007 R56 S
Build Date: Early 07
Miles: 46,000
Duration: 1-2 mins
Frequency: 2-3 times a week for the last year
RPM range: 0-3,000 rpm
Ambient Temp: 14-70F
Oil: 5W30 Castrol Syntec Level: Full
Any other relevant information:
My car does this about every other morning. I live in Atlanta and it doesn't exactly get cold here. I've had this issue occur during the middle of July when the mornings are in the 70's.
Build Date: Early 07
Miles: 46,000
Duration: 1-2 mins
Frequency: 2-3 times a week for the last year
RPM range: 0-3,000 rpm
Ambient Temp: 14-70F
Oil: 5W30 Castrol Syntec Level: Full
Any other relevant information:
My car does this about every other morning. I live in Atlanta and it doesn't exactly get cold here. I've had this issue occur during the middle of July when the mornings are in the 70's.
#71
My 08 Clubman S has been loud on ALL cold start-ups since I bought the vehicle in June. I told my dealer that it sounds like an old VW bug when I start up. Naturally when it was in their shop they couldn’t hear it. (B.S.!)
Thanks to all for putting this together, I will be contacting my dealer for a replacement engine. (after BMW accepts the fact that there is a problem)
Thanks to all for putting this together, I will be contacting my dealer for a replacement engine. (after BMW accepts the fact that there is a problem)
#72
My '08 continues to have an issue, this morning it lasted a few longer than I wanted to wait, but I did... just let it idle until it cleared ~4 min's. it was 26 deg F.
Last night I had driven it about 7 miles before parking it so I would not call that a short run like a driveway move I had done in the past.
The car was parked in a 40 deg F. garage on level ground.
Thanks for comments, we need a fix!!!!
Last night I had driven it about 7 miles before parking it so I would not call that a short run like a driveway move I had done in the past.
The car was parked in a 40 deg F. garage on level ground.
Thanks for comments, we need a fix!!!!
#73
I think I just heard the knocking when I started up this morning.
I have an 09 that I picked up in early October with 1800 miles on it. It just got it's first oil change last night. Mobil 1 - (0w-30)
It wasn't very loud, just sounded a little like a diesel. It ran a little rough for the first two accelerations, but not bad. And I think it was quiet after about 3 minutes. It was 33 degrees this morning. I may have heard the sound before but didn't pay much attention because it was very quiet.
I'm new to NAM and happy to stumble across these posts. I'm not real concerned about this problem but I will be keeping a close eye on it. And will definately bring it to the dealer if it gets any worse. At the very least I'll mention it when I am in for my first oil change if it persists. I'll keep posting here with any updates. I think that these type of threads are a great idea.
I have always been a Detroit Big 3 type of car guy... Detroit is were I grew up. A big rumbl'n V8 is like music to my ears. But you just can't beat the perfmormance vs. gas mileage of a Mini. So far I absolutely love this car! It's the first car I have owned that was not made in Detroit. But I have no regrets so far. This car is a blast!
That being said... I don't think that anyone should consider this type of problem not a problem. It shouldn't be expected from brand new car in this price range. I fully intend to take advantage of the warranty while I'm still covered. I have plenty of time so I'm not concerned and again, don't consider this a big issue. I have always thought that cars need a minute to warm up, especially before any spirited driving!
Keep up the good work posters... Thanks for all the info...These threads are good stuff!
I have an 09 that I picked up in early October with 1800 miles on it. It just got it's first oil change last night. Mobil 1 - (0w-30)
It wasn't very loud, just sounded a little like a diesel. It ran a little rough for the first two accelerations, but not bad. And I think it was quiet after about 3 minutes. It was 33 degrees this morning. I may have heard the sound before but didn't pay much attention because it was very quiet.
I'm new to NAM and happy to stumble across these posts. I'm not real concerned about this problem but I will be keeping a close eye on it. And will definately bring it to the dealer if it gets any worse. At the very least I'll mention it when I am in for my first oil change if it persists. I'll keep posting here with any updates. I think that these type of threads are a great idea.
I have always been a Detroit Big 3 type of car guy... Detroit is were I grew up. A big rumbl'n V8 is like music to my ears. But you just can't beat the perfmormance vs. gas mileage of a Mini. So far I absolutely love this car! It's the first car I have owned that was not made in Detroit. But I have no regrets so far. This car is a blast!
That being said... I don't think that anyone should consider this type of problem not a problem. It shouldn't be expected from brand new car in this price range. I fully intend to take advantage of the warranty while I'm still covered. I have plenty of time so I'm not concerned and again, don't consider this a big issue. I have always thought that cars need a minute to warm up, especially before any spirited driving!
Keep up the good work posters... Thanks for all the info...These threads are good stuff!
#74
Model: MCS
Build Date: 5/2008
Miles: 4500
Duration: 1-4 minutes
Frequency: Quite often now, 50% of mornings.
RPM range: Idle to 2600
Ambient Temp: Ambient temps running in the 40's.
Oil: Mobile1 5w30 (Changed at 1500 miles.)
Any other relevant information: It seems to be happening far more often now. I'm not sure if this is temp related now that it's cool in the northeast or due to numerous short run times repositioning in the garage. (Stored in an unheated, level and dry garage.) I have also noticed this after washing.
Build Date: 5/2008
Miles: 4500
Duration: 1-4 minutes
Frequency: Quite often now, 50% of mornings.
RPM range: Idle to 2600
Ambient Temp: Ambient temps running in the 40's.
Oil: Mobile1 5w30 (Changed at 1500 miles.)
Any other relevant information: It seems to be happening far more often now. I'm not sure if this is temp related now that it's cool in the northeast or due to numerous short run times repositioning in the garage. (Stored in an unheated, level and dry garage.) I have also noticed this after washing.
#75
I experienced this again for the first time in almost a year. Yesterday when the temps were in the high 20's my MINI made the dieseling sound. I didn't have time for it to warm up so I drove on. The engine continued to make the dieseling sound for a minute or more.
Currently I am running Castrol 5w-40 A3/B3 BMW LL-01 oil with 4500 miles since the oil change. I am do for an oil change by Mini in approx 2500 miles which they will use the Mini 5w-30 oil. I would almost prefer they use the 0w-30 Castrol that I used at the beginning of the year that seemed to silence the cold start issue.
Currently I am running Castrol 5w-40 A3/B3 BMW LL-01 oil with 4500 miles since the oil change. I am do for an oil change by Mini in approx 2500 miles which they will use the Mini 5w-30 oil. I would almost prefer they use the 0w-30 Castrol that I used at the beginning of the year that seemed to silence the cold start issue.