I recently realized that the treads in my oil pan drain has been stripped. After much freaking out (because I thought that I might have to actually change the entire pan, which I definitely could not afford right now) I found that they actually make a re-treading kit for such mishaps.

My issue is, I would like to know if anyone out there readily knows the length of the OEM drain plug. I already know that it is Metric 14X1.5, but I would like to know the exact length, so I can be sure that I buy the CORRECT repair kit.

FYI: The kit I am looking to get is the "TIME-SERT" 1415A or 1415C. They are both for aluminium pans, but the "A" has a 9.4mm insert and the "C" a 12.7mm insert. I'm not quite sure if the 3.3mm difference is enough to be concerned about, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Also if any of you has had this procedure done and would like to share some feedback, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.

 

Since you will have to buy a new drain plug anyways, why don't you do that now and measure it? Better yet, dispense with the drain plug in favor of a Fumoto drain valve.

 

I too highly recommend a Fumoto for any GEN1

 

When this happened to mine, I just bought a new drain plug -- why go through the hassle of re-threading? I mean, unless you're into that sort of thing.

Edit: Oh! You said on the *drain*. Derrrrrrrrrrrr . . . carry on.

 

Interesting....14x1.5 is that the same as a 2007 and up model MINI's wheel lug bolt ?

 

I haven't installed in yet, but it would be idel in you case....no worries about the repair failing from future oil changes!!!

 

Just curious -- is the rethreading normally done while the pan is still on the car? If so, I'd be concerned about leaving microscopic metal fragments inside...

 

Yup....but much safer to do than putting a heli-coil into ones head...used if you blow out a spark plug. Remember that the oil pan is filled with oil that will not be filtered till it is used. So as long as one does a reasonable job after doing a coil or re-tapping, all should be fine. Not an ideal situation, but better than 6 hrs labor or so plus a gasket to remove it, tap it, and reinstall...by that point replacing it would be better. To remove it, fix it and hope it works would IMO be " penny wise, pound foolish" to use an old saying.

 

A quick thread hijack here along the same type issue....

I recently stripped the head of the drain bolt beyond any wrench will hold or a bolt out socket would help.
Any suggestions how to remove the bolt now?
I was thinking maybe welding a nut over the stripped head of the bolt.?!
I have about 4000 miles till next oil change to contimplate my fatal error.

 

I've helped a few folks get stripped bungs out of their pans and like you was reaching for Mr MIG ... but running that juice thru the engine with all those computer hook ups gave me the jimmies

I've managed to get 'em out every time with this type of extractor ...


Don't be afraid to use a hammer and beat the next smaller size down onto your messed up head....these are hardened and will bite in. Then try to turn....if it starts to slip give it a few more stiff taps. You'll mangle the head but heck it is already mangled. Mine are IRWIN and I believe came from an autozone .... I believe SEARS has something that looks exactly the same. The base set has on 1/2 of the sockets you see. I ended up getting the expansion - other half of the kit - b4 I got a good fit and pulled the first bugger.

 

If you connect your ground directly to the oil pan, you should be safe to weld a nut onto the old plug and get it out, but disconnect the battery just in case. I like the kit Capt. bj used, that's probably a better way. I can't believe the plug's in there that tight, but I guess someone could have overtorqued it and stripped the threads, either that or the tool used the first time to try and remove it was not the appropriate one - like a crescent wrench or a pair of channel locks.

As to tapping the new hole, if you coat the tap with grease it will hold on to most if not all of the shavings. Then to be sure, you can pour the oil you drained out right back in and let it flush out the pan again. That should do it....

Swag, the thread length is 10mm, don't make the threadsert any longer than that, or cut off the excess if they don't make one short enough. Using a SS insert like this should mean that the plug never galls or seizes in the pan again, just be sure to use a new crush washer each time you remove it and torque it properly on re-intallation.

 

I have the Craftsman set and did not try very hard on the first attempt but will try more aggressivly the next oil change.

 

If you connect your ground directly to the oil pan, you should be safe to weld a nut onto the old plug and get it out, but disconnect the battery just in case.
ABSOLUTELY disconnect the battery! I was an adjunct instructor with a Votec Auto Repair class for a while. We taught always disconnect the battery b4 welding on any car and with the newer cars recommend disconnecting both battery cables to provide max protection to modern electronics. That was for body work . . .



I like the kit Capt. bj used, that's probably a better way. I can't believe the plug's in there that tight, but I guess someone could have overtorqued it and stripped the threads, either that or the tool used the first time to try and remove it was not the appropriate one - like a crescent wrench or a pair of channel locks.

you can search for my earlier posts on this issue but the executive summary is this. Take a new unmessed plug and you'll find the recommended size metric is a sloppy fit. The metric is a tad too big. Use a sloppy 12 point socket and you can trash the head even if the bung isn't over torq'd.




Using a 6 point socket helps but the fit is still sloppy. I now use a 1/2 inch and if the bung isn't already messed up no longer have problems. Do the math....the 1/2 inch is a TAD smaller. I also believe that built on plastic washer becomes a problem with re-use. Haynes says replace the entire plug everytime . . . btw this poor sizing is also a factor in getting an extractor to fit tight meaning you may have to size down and pound a bit more. A too large extractor is just going to shave even more off the head b4 you get enuf grip to apply torq'



Worth repeating: once you get the GEN1 plug out, replace with a FUMOTO . . . and never fight this issue again.



If you can't be convinced that the valve is totally safe then realize the bung is a very common size and you can get a generic replacement at any autoparts store and use a copper or fiber crush washer for the seal .... eliminating that plastic crud.

 

I would skip the welding....so close to oil....etc....other options are better IMO.
Just use a dremel or other small grinder to make it square enough for a pipe wrench, or grind a slot in it for a screw driver...and out it comes...no worries about blowing the battery or damaging any electronic gizmozs!! Might be faster too...but you loose an excuse to get out the welding equipment/buy some!!

I use a new plug every other oil change or so....the OEM plugs, rubber and all were like 3.50 or so. When I use up my supply..fumoto here I come...wish I knew about it before I bought my supply of plugs.
The 1/2 socket works much better to on the OEM plug...nice and snug..does not round off the edges either!! It has been my trick too since 05' when i first realized it fir better!!

 

I use a 6 point socket, I've never had a problem getting the plug out, but then I don't overtorque it and strip the threads either.....

 

Timeserts and Helicoils work very well and if you use heavy grease on the drill and tap very few particles will remain in the pan.That being said it all comes with a caveat,It does take some skill and care to install the inserts properly.The hardest part is to make sure the drilled hole is perpendicular to the sealing surface on the pan.Slight misalignment can be taken up by a soft crush washer but if it is off by much you will have a drip. Drilling the hole out is kind of hard due to it needing a 5/8 bit and with the remains of the threads it rarely cuts smoothly and that makes it hard to go straight in.But if you have the tools and patience it can be done.OR if you go to a NAPA or other auto store, they usually carry oversize self threading drainplugs.These cut their own threads and if you are careful in the future will work for many more oil changes.The quicky oil change shops use them by the bucketful.

 

Me too!

 

Wow! A very helpful thread. I've just ordered my Fumoto drain valve. (for those that wonder, Amazon sells them, and www.fumotousa.com lists which one you need) I really hope I can get my plug out.

My 05 MCS has never had its oil changed! I bought it with 8,300 miles on it, and I've been trying to change the oil for a couple weeks now. At first, it was just too darn cold outside. Now, I can't get the darn plug out and today I rounded the head on the plug. DAMMIT!!

Anyway, just to make sure I'm not a complete idiot:
Is the drain plug standard thread or reverse thread?

(If I've been turning it the wrong way, I'll scream.)

 

Standard, not reverse.

 

righty tighty, lefty loosy

for the Fum' you want an F-106 for any GEN1. You can use the F-106N which adds a nipple which allows attaching a plastic hose so you can control the drain stream.

The 106 is possibly the most common size .... both my Hondas use it too.

Alto the Fum' site now lists a valve for the GEN2 I can NOT imagine using one. It would project down from the pad just begging to be snapped off.

 

Thanks folks. I'm glad to know that I wasn't turning it the wrong way. I broke a radiator drain off once because I didn't know it was reverse threaded. I've been a little gun shy ever since.

 

Easy to remember, Lefty loosey Righty tighty.

 

Sorry to resurrect the thread but i totally stripped my drain plug bolt. After stripping it i decided to use the vice grips, but they didn't get a good enough grip to the bolt so it ended up stripping the bolt more.

So now the drain plug bolt is pretty messed up. Will the extractor tool by craftsman or irwin (posted above) work? What are my other options?

 

If one of the extractors doesn't work, use a dremel to cut two flats on it.

 

I went through exactly the same problem a couple months ago, and got a set of the Irwin extractors at Home depot. Tapped the 1/2" size onto the end of the "borked" drain plug and got on it with a breaker bar - it came right out! They worked great for me...