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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
03' r53 here with the hi speed fan cutting on and off and then sometimes running for awhile after the car is off. Can I bypass the resistor from the top or am I going to have to put it in service mode and pull the radiator?
03' r53 here with the hi speed fan cutting on and off and then sometimes running for awhile after the car is off. Can I bypass the resistor from the top or am I going to have to put it in service mode and pull the radiator?
You can bypass it up top. Follow the guide I mentioned a few posts up. You basically wire a resistor from the low speed wire on the fans plug and tap into the high speed wire on the fans plug.
You will need solder, a drill/hole tap, CPU thermal paste, the resistor, wiring taps, wiring, and electrical tape. It's about a 30min fix.
03' r53 here with the hi speed fan cutting on and off and then sometimes running for awhile after the car is off. Can I bypass the resistor from the top or am I going to have to put it in service mode and pull the radiator?
If you have a two-plug fan as most 2003s do, you cannot do anything from the top. You need to pull the fan which doesn't require service mode BTW to repair it. There's a great thread that will take you through the process.
I installed the Dorman replacement resistor on a non OEM fan assembly and it has been good for a while now.
Note that the fan staying on for a while sometimes is normal if it eventually goes off. If it doesn't go off after a few minutes, then a gentle tap on the relay from the top will shut it off. But to change that relay it requires removing the fan.
Motor On!
///Rich
Last edited by Rich.Wolfson; Feb 6, 2016 at 07:36 PM.
I'll have to have a double check sometime when I get the fan replaced as there must be a reason why I thought it was series (had it in my hands for a long time).
Just fixed my fan. Put in a TYC 621080 for $69 on amazon. I wasn't sure which fan model to pick as I have a build date of 03/03, but after getting the fan out, I could see I have the later version ("From 03/03"). Wish the part people were more clear. (saying To 03/03 and From 03/03, leaves some uncertainty for those of us with build dates of 03/03...).
Turns out the fan in my car has been replaced previously - the date stamped in the plastic looks like June 2009. Official MINI part - 17421475577 version 02.
Pictures of burned out resistor for all to enjoy. Sigh...
Just fixed my fan. Put in a TYC 621080 for $69 on amazon. I wasn't sure which fan model to pick as I have a build date of 03/03, but after getting the fan out, I could see I have the later version ("From 03/03"). Wish the part people were more clear. (saying To 03/03 and From 03/03, leaves some uncertainty for those of us with build dates of 03/03...).
Turns out the fan in my car has been replaced previously - the date stamped in the plastic looks like June 2009. Official MINI part - 17421475577 version 02.
Pictures of burned out resistor for all to enjoy. Sigh...
By replacing the Dan you're just delaying the inevitable. It's going to happen again because of a crap design.
Whereas if you did the resistor mod, it's not only a fun project but it's also accessible and you don't have to tear out out the fan.
I think i have the same issue last few days when I had the AC on I noticed that I could hear the fan more when it turns on and off and it would do this every few seconds, turn on really fast for about 20 seconds then it would stop and a few seconds later it would turn on again.
So does this mean my stage 1 is working but on high setting and the only thing that is burnt is the resistor? The dealer said I could still drive the car and as long as the fan turns on and you don't mind the louder noise it makes it will not cause damage to the engine.
dealer cost for part is $579 CDN not sure about labor if I do decide to go down that road, I hardly drive the car less than 5K year.
Does anyone have the part number for the mouser resistor (or an updated link... the last one is dead)? I'm ready to do this mod and I just need to order the resistor.
I'm planning on selling our R53 in about a year, so I'm going to attempt to make this look as OEM as possible.
Also, is there any reason that no one has put together an all encompassing post for the different options to fix this (ways to test, parts list, tutorial, simple wiring diagram -- all in the first post, for example)? I read through the thread, but spending a few hours to do so isn't super efficient.
I'm planning on selling our R53 in about a year, so I'm going to attempt to make this look as OEM as possible.
Although the Mouser or similar resistor properly mounted is probably the best long term solution, since you want to keep it stock, maybe consider just using the Dorman or Uro parts replacement resistor:
Dorman 902-706
Uro Parts 17117541092R
If you get the Dorman part, verify the internal connections. Some have found them inadequately soldered/welded on and you may need to re-solder them.
On my own I used two .68 ohm resistors in parallel to lower the heat dissipated through each resistor. Mounted to the front aluminum bumper reinforcement with thermal grease, they stay cool enough to touch even in summer.
BTW, I used much cheaper resistors off of eBay (about $8 for two shipped) with the same design as those Arcol 100 watt resistors. Haven't had a problem with them and its been about a year and a half.
Although the Mouser or similar resistor properly mounted is probably the best long term solution, since you want to keep it stock, maybe consider just using the Dorman or Uro parts replacement resistor:
Dorman 902-706
Uro Parts 17117541092R
If you get the Dorman part, verify the internal connections. Some have found them inadequately soldered/welded on and you may need to re-solder them.
On my own I used two .68 ohm resistors in parallel to lower the heat dissipated through each resistor. Mounted to the front aluminum bumper reinforcement with thermal grease, they stay cool enough to touch even in summer.
I've certainly been bouncing back and forth. Part of me wants to just swap the fan with an aftermarket unit and roll the dice. Then the fix without removing the bumper is quite tempting.
Also, is there any reason that no one has put together an all encompassing post for the different options to fix this (ways to test, parts list, tutorial, simple wiring diagram -- all in the first post, for example)? I read through the thread, but spending a few hours to do so isn't super efficient.
The reason is that nobody has stepped forward to volunteer spending a few hours putting it all together. It would be nice if somebody did, but at least people are dropping in to share what they did to service their own car.
The reason is that nobody has stepped forward to volunteer spending a few hours putting it all together. It would be nice if somebody did, but at least people are dropping in to share what they did to service their own car.
It's actually straight forward.
1-Determine which fan you have. One plug or two. If you have a one-plug (2004 and after), you can wire in the resister easily without removing the fan. There are a lot of places to mount the 0.33 ohm 100 W (ARCOL 11-31 HS 100. R33. J) resister but my favorite is on the drivers side motor support. Just drill, tap and mount the resister (the picture here is before I realized on Artoo had the two plug fan and this option was off the table) wire it in with 10 ga wire as in this diagram , solder only with shrink wrapped ends, and you're done. No worries.
2-If you have a two-plug fan, 2002-2003, then the resister fix is less elegant and I have found that if you can persuade a dealer to give you a removed OEM fan, or the one broken in your car is OEM, you replace the resister and relay assembly with the
or the http://www.detroittuned.com/dorman-gen-1-fan-relay-kit one, pictured here, you'll be good to go for a LONG time. Note that some suggest that the Dorman fan needs a bit of extra help where the wires attach to the resister but that is your choice and there are all sorts of ways to do it. And there is another upgrade out there too. The picture attached has the OEM on the left, one upgrade in the center and the Dorman the one that has not blown on Artoo for a long while, on the right. But I would not simply crimp in the assembly. High-temp solder connections is the only way to go. If you want the best directions for removing the fan, https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/how-to/216866-diy-r53-cooling-fan-replacement.html will give you everything you need.
And in the older fans where the relay is on the fan, use a new relay whenever you are in there. The relays are cheap and they start to stick after a while. Cheap insurance in my book.
Did I miss anything?
///Rich
PS-Thanks Chris, Zippy and Cristo for doing most of the grunt work on this. My guess is half the R53s out there have non-functioning low speed fans.
Also-I tried to get the URLs correct but the HTML editor is not behaving. It looks good in Preview but not when posted. Sorry.
Resister
Mini Copper Fan Resistors
Last edited by Rich.Wolfson; Jan 31, 2016 at 10:34 AM.
1-Determine which fan you have. One plug or two. If you have a one-plug (2004 and after), you can wire in the resister easily without removing the fan. There are a lot of places to mount the 0.33 ohm 100 W (ARCOL 11-31 HS 100. R33. J) resister but my favorite is on the drivers side motor support. Just drill, tap and mount the resister (the picture here is before I realized on Artoo had the two plug fan and this option was off the table) wire it in with 10 ga wire as in this diagram , solder only with shrink wrapped ends, and you're done. No worries.
2-If you have a two-plug fan, 2002-2003, then the resister fix is less elegant and I have found that if you can persuade a dealer to give you a removed OEM fan, or the one broken in your car is OEM, you replace the resister and relay assembly with the Dorman on Amazon or the Detroit Tuned one, pictured here, you'll be good to go for a LONG time. Note that some suggest that the Dorman fan needs a bit of extra help where the wires attach to the resister but that is your choice and there are all sorts of ways to do it. And there is another upgrade out there too. The picture attached has the OEM on the left, one upgrade in the center and the Dorman the one that has not blown on Artoo for a long while, on the right. But I would not simply crimp in the assembly. High-temp solder connections is the only way to go. If you want the best directions for removing the fan, this thread will give you everything you need.
And in the older fans where the relay is on the fan, use a new relay whenever you are in there. The relays are cheap and they start to stick after a while. Cheap insurance in my book.
Did I miss anything?
///Rich
PS-Thanks Chris, Zippy and Cristo for doing most of the grunt work on this. My guess is half the R53s out there have non-functioning low speed fans.
Also-I tried to get the URLs correct but the HTML editor is not behaving. It looks good in Preview but not when posted. Sorry.
Resister
Mini Copper Fan Resistors
Good stuff. Now they should get it on the first post. :D
Good stuff. Now they should get it on the first post.
There is no "they". You're assuming some structure in this forum that doesn't exist. The first post belongs to the member who started the thread. He brought up a topic for discussion. This forum is like a chat room, not a blog.
Is the OP no longer active on the forum? He can edit the original post. FWIW, I sent Rich's excellent post to the OP and asked him to update the original post.
Anyway, I ordered both the resistor and the replacement fan. Replacement fan arrived first so I installed it. I'm keeping the old fan to do the resistor mod on the OEM fan should I have an early failure on the aftermarket fan. Pepper is up and running, minimum downtime, and I have a contingency plan should everything blow up in my face. :D
Wow, a lot of pages to go through. Looking like Im having similar issues with rising temps in traffic. The only way to drop the temp is to turn on the AC. Though it has never fully overheated, barely over the half-mark, it still makes me nervous. I'll continue the reading process and weigh the options. If anyone has done the aftermarket resistor in the SoCal area, I'd like to check it out in person. Im about to drop it a row of high-speed computer fans on the top of the radiator, with a relay and temp sensor...
Wow, a lot of pages to go through. Looking like Im having similar issues with rising temps in traffic. The only way to drop the temp is to turn on the AC. Though it has never fully overheated, barely over the half-mark, it still makes me nervous. I'll continue the reading process and weigh the options. If anyone has done the aftermarket resistor in the SoCal area, I'd like to check it out in person. Im about to drop it a row of high-speed computer fans on the top of the radiator, with a relay and temp sensor...
Just change out the fan - the one from TYC is a good unit and it's the same amount of effort to change the resistor.
It is an easy fix, but the resistor in the TYC unit only lasted me a year or two, so you'll likely be doing the repair again in a few years. With the resistor mod done right, you're set forever.
That's too bad - mines been fine for about 2 years - doesn't TYC have a lifetime warranty though??
It would be nice if somebody did, but at least people are dropping in to share what they did to service their own car.
