When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I have read and read, and I’m still confused on some of these issues. Can someone help me out, so I can make sure I understand correctly?
I have an ’04 Mini Cooper S MC40 edition. My air conditioner went out about 2 years ago, and the dealership I bought it from fixed it under warranty. They said they replaced everything, compressor, condenser, hoses, etc. Afterwards, the AC worked great.
About 18 months ago, my AC went out again. I brought it back to them and they kept it for a week, then called me to tell me they couldn’t fix it. They said the compressor and everything worked perfectly, but there was an electrical issue somewhere in the system and only Mini dealerships would have access to the schematics to fix it (this was a Nissan dealership, the nearest Mini dealership is about 4 hours away from me.)
Since then, I’ve been driving around with no air conditioning. It’s worth mentioning that I live in Louisiana, where it’s routinely 100+ for at least 7 or 8 months out of the year. I’ve been managing it by carrying an ice pack with me on the 45 minute commute to work and back, but I really wanna fix it.
I’ve been assuming that the fan resistor is the issue. I was planning to just replace the entire fan, but cost has me reconsidering the resistor. But before I start splicing wires, I wanted to make sure this is the correct issue.
First, the low speed fan does not seem to be working. I just cranked the car and turned the A/C on, and the fan did not move. That sounds like the low speed fan is out, right?
However, the car never overheats, and I’ve driven probably 30,000 miles since the A/C first went out. If the low speed fan wasn’t working, wouldn’t I have overheating issues while driving that much in 104 degree weather? Granted, most of that is on the interstate, but even driving in town or stuck in traffic, no overheating. Ever.
Also, my A/C never blows anything but hot air. Once the car gets hot enough to kick on the high speed fan, wouldn’t the A/C start blowing cold again?
I’d read about this issue when my A/C went out the first time, so I haven’t run the compressor at all since the fans went out, other than in short spurts (usually 30 seconds, never more than a minute) to see if it’s working or not. I’ve been adamant about that to make sure I didn’t blow my compressor, since the car is no longer under warranty.
So, does this sound like replacing the fan or resistor would fix my issue, or do I have a different problem or a combination of problems?
Thanks so much for your time. You guys are awesome.
Reply:
I wonder how they determined that everything was working if the system isn't working?? Does this mean they jumper-ed the compressor coil relay to engage it and it blows cold, but using the dash control doesn't engage the coil? If so, then yes it would require knowledge of the electronic controls to fix it. You need to determine this before pondering if the fan has anything to do with it. On the fan, you do not need the fan when moving above maybe about 30 mph, the cars movement is enough, so if no A/C at speed it's not a fan issue. This goes for engine cooling as well.
Is it actually HOT air, or just not cold? There is a baffle in the heat exchanger box in the dash that switches the air flow from the A/C evaporator coil to the heater coil. Maybe the air handler baffle is stuck on hot or half way. The A/C is working but mixing cold and hot air. The baffle 'motor' that moves the baffle is located next to the glove box. See if that is working.
You have it backwards. The A/C system needs to achieve a certain level of pressure before it triggers the low speed fan. So your non-working A/C isn't triggering the fan, not the other way around. Your low speed fan may or may not be working (not enough information in your post to know). In any case, the A/C operates independently and the radiator fan doesn't prevent it from working.
The low speed fan does indeed come on when turning on the A/C even if the compressor is not working. My compressor clutch went out and had no A/C, but the low speed fan came on when ever I turned on the A/C. This was for a '04 S.
Fix still working.
My MCS is now 13 years old and has done 105K miles.......
Did replace chock block with brass screw terminal block as wires inside chock block were green with corrosion.
I just recently purchased my 05 MCS, noticed that the low speed fan was not working, read this thread, ordered the resistor that was mentioned in the first couple of pages, and boom, it is working now.
I'm in need of implementing this fix for our fan that stays on and runs down our battery. I'm trying to make heads or tails of the wiring diagram, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3732961, but am confused. Having all the wires red doesn't help.
What I'm confused about is the "a" and "b" sides of the resistor. In the picture in the link, is "a" at the top or bottom? I haven't gotten the resistor yet so does it say on the resistor itself?
There's an arrow pointing to the "low-speed fan" wire. After the wire is cut, the length running to the fan stays unattached?
The red wire that comes out of the "fan socket (to car)" and is not wrapped with the other wires. I'm assuming this is a new length of wire. How is it inserted into the socket? Is it an easy thing to do?
Sorry if my questions are stupid. I haven't done much electrical work in cars other than installing stereo systems back in the day. And never had to deal with sockets. Just trying not to pay $590 to my mechanic to replace the fan!!!
Basically what happens is the electricity comes from the low speed side of the plug off to the resistor, then back to the high-speed wiring to the fan.
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Basically what happens is the electricity comes from the low speed side of the plug off to the resistor, then back to the high-speed wiring to the fan.
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Jamea
Jamea, I appreciate your post. Unfortunately, I still don't understand. Especially now that I've come home and looked at the wires in question. Which wires need to be cut? They are all red. Should I be looking at an actual Mini wiring diagram to do this repair? Is there a diagram in the owner's manual?
I've ordered the resistor and it should be here in a couple of days. I'm eager to fix our fan problem as it has left my wife stranded on many occasions. Good thing we have AAA.
I'm eager to fix our fan problem as it has left my wife stranded on many occasions.
Can you elaborate on this? A bad low speed resistor will not leave you stranded. The engine gets warmer and the high speed fan will kick on when it reaches a certain temperature.
I think your problem is something else. When you say "stranded", do you mean from overheating? It could be caused by a bad thermostat, relay, the fan itself, or something else in the cooling system.
Can you elaborate on this? A bad low speed resistor will not leave you stranded. The engine gets warmer and the high speed fan will kick on when it reaches a certain temperature.
I think your problem is something else. When you say "stranded", do you mean from overheating? It could be caused by a bad thermostat, relay, the fan itself, or something else in the cooling system.
The fan runs on until it drains the battery. We've had to call AAA twice to jump start her car while she was out running errands. Happens when she gets stuck in traffic with the AC on.
I thought because the low speed fan isn't turning on, thus the hi-speed fan comes on and stays on. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem cause they will only drive the car for about 15 minutes. Not long enough.
They replaced the temp sensor for free. But not the problem. They are saying that if they can't find the cause, the fan is the next item. And will cost $590!!!
I will try the resistor before shelling out that kind of cash.
mcw, what year is your car? There's a known problem with the power steering pump continously running after the car is shut off on first gen cars which could be the problem you're having. It leads to batteries dying if you're lucky, to cars catching on fire if you're not. If your car was built in Feb 2005 or earlier, it should qualify for the power steering pump recall. Unfortunately, this can happen to the later builds, but the fix will be out of your own pocket.
mcw, what year is your car? There's a known problem with the power steering pump continously running after the car is shut off on first gen cars which could be the problem you're having. It leads to batteries dying if you're lucky, to cars catching on fire if you're not. If your car was built in Feb 2005 or earlier, it should qualify for the power steering pump recall. Unfortunately, this can happen to the later builds, but the fix will be out of your own pocket.
We have a 2005 MCS. Don't know the build date. If it is the power steering pump, would we feel air moving around the front of the car? And it is extremely loud.
Not sure on the air moving, unless the power steering fan is stuck on, too. It's a small fan which is right behind the oil pan. You can run your VIN on an online decoder to find out the build date of your car and all of it's options.
Not sure on the air moving, unless the power steering fan is stuck on, too. It's a small fan which is right behind the oil pan. You can run your VIN on an online decoder to find out the build date of your car and all of it's options.
I'm leaning toward the radiator fan because whenever I drive my wife's car, I never use the AC. And I've never experienced the fan coming on and staying on after ignition is turned off.
08-05-2016, 03:14 PM
