check www.partsgeek.com product sku 620-902 05 2005 mini cooper s fan assembly. manufacturer Dorman, should be less than $100.

The whole thing of external resistor is the fact if the fan still good it just save time avoid service mode to remove the fan.

service mode is this (not so hard already pointed out by othersp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dyfnjh8saA

 

Both TYC and Dorman fans have a lifetime warranty. Should run you less than $80 shipped from rockauto.com.

I'm currently using the TYC. Had to get a warranty replacement once b/c of the resistor. Current one has been in a year and a half.

 

hi guys hoping you can help.

i have a mini one with the 2 plug so had to remove the fan and could not bridge at the plug end. instead i have bridged at the resistor end.

basically ive removed the resistor and literaaly bridged/jumped/loop the high and low speed wires instead of adding a resistor as i want it this way for better cooling because i have upgraded the power etc.

anywhoss the problem im having is as follows,

1. when the fan cuts in the 30amp fuse blows in the fuse box in the engine bay,
2. i removed the low speed wire from the plug and switched the a/c on to let the high speed fan kick in, so i replaced the 30amp fuse and was fine did not blow,

now basically i read on page 17 post #411 that the power has been increased from 30amp to 50amp, is this correct?

also how do i resolve the fuse blowing issue? which is the MAIN question...?!

thanks in advance

 

The whole point of the low speed wire is that it has reduced voltage which results in reduced fan speed i.e. your low speed fan.

By bridging the low and hi speed wire WITHOUT a resistor you are basically running the low speed at the high speed and thus popping the 30 amp fuse.

You have to wire in a resistor before bridging into the hi-speed wire.

This should be common sense and you should do this. By increasing the amp of the fuse you are now making the wire the fuse instead of the fuse. This could result in a hazardous situation for you.

 

Oh ok thanks

Do you know what resistor i would need?

Thanks

 

Amazon.com, less than $70. BOOM!

 

carter, this is the one you need:
http://ph.mouser.com/ProductDetail/A...XjsYM7uQ%3d%3d

OR this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170969660469?redirect=mobile

 

Just went to autozone and bought the Dorman relay kit for my 03 MCS... I got my low speed fan back and my high now doesn't run till the battery dies.

 

What do you mean?

 

Hello,

Two days ago, in rush hour traffic, my a/c stopped working. Got home, popped the hood, and found a leaking coolant reservoir seam. Did research and tried to activate the low speed fan by turning the car on and switching on the a/c. Nothing. No low speed fan, no a/c clutch engagement.

I tried to let it run until the high speed fan kicked on, but I lost my nerve, knowing that I am lucky enough that I don't have a blown head gasket from the initial failure the previous day, so I shut it down. Hence, I cannot confirm that the high speed fan is working. My OBD2 scanner doesn't give me a temperature readout for coolant, so I couldn't blindly risk overheating it. I checked the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and found no dead ones.

So, this is where I start losing my marbles. My R53 has a production date of 03/03. You guessed it, the exact cut-over month for the cooling fan part number change (according to parts websites listing up to 03/03, and from 03/03, for the different fan models). So which setup do I have? More research. I *think* I have only one plug connector at the radiator, which implies the later version (correct?), and I have the snowflake listed in the under-hood fuse box at Relay R2. Would somebody mind verifying, based on the attached images, if I have the relay-on-the-fan-shroud jobber or the relay-in-the-box jobber? Also, I haven't found a good way to test the components without risking overheating the car. Is there a way to test the low-speed fan functionality by tripping the relay or something? Will the low speed fan not coming on stop the a/c clutch from engaging? The a/c is a secondary concern for me because this is my only car, and I need to get to work without overheating, but I feel they might be related? So many questions. I've inserted a picture of the fan connector and the fuse box in the hopes that it will help answer questions. Thanks in advance for any input you can offer!

Joe

 

You seem to have the newer single plug & a bad A/C. Unplug your harness & have your fan tested. Remember brown is ground, bigger red is high, smaller red is low.
A/C & temp call the fans. Apart from connections, relays & fuses, have your A/C system checked by a qualified & experienced tech. Might just be a simple clutch clearance issue where reducing the washer thickness would do or A/C clutch replacement(search eBay for a clutch kit, around $100).
Hope you hunt it down!

 

Hi Joe,

TEMPERATURE reading
You can measure the temperature of coolant by using the MINI OBC/Trip Computer. There is few steps you need to do and put your computer in test mode and test 7.0 will give you the reading of coolant temperature.

The whole procedure you can find here it is on 3rd post of the thread.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ult-codes.html

CLUTCH
It is very common when you are having cooling issues to the clutch in the compressor breaks up, because without the fan 1st stage the car keeps working in a higher temperature cycling the more often the fan 2nd stage.

You can pretty much test the clutch solenoid by removing relay and identifying what is the contact that goes to the clutch solenoid. One side of the contact must go to 12V but I believe it is depending of the ignition circuit, I what I mean is turn the key to position on but don't start the car and in one side of the normal open contact should measure 12V. when you identify the side of the 12V, the other point goes to the solenoid clutch. So measuring the resistance from that contact point against the ground chassi it should read ~ 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms. So one side of the clutch solenoid goes to the relay and the other side is just grounded in the engine.

If you measure one open circuit pretty much your clutch solenoid is gone. The compressor maybe good but I didn't have tool to remove and replace only the solenoid.

FAN
By the picture of you connector it does looks like you FAN is the newer model.

Note:
I had the same problem as you lost FAN 1st and I didn't notice, then lost AC clutch. I didn't have any over heated coolant though.

If you have one of those car stethoscope listen in the water pump for any metal ticking, because it can have some broken gears there and super charger is failing to move the water pump.

I hope this help you and provide some info to go further.

 

Thank you Minsanity and CooperSML!

CooperSML,

when you say test the relay, do you mean test the relay itself, or the relay socket? I'm new with using a multimeter but think I can manage. A concern, though, is the newly cracked coolant reservoir. it was 97° F the day this all happened, but it's been jungle hot here in Illinois a few times this summer, so I'm worried about which one ( ac compressor clutch or fan) is the real culprit. thanks for pointing me to instructions on using the odometer to monitor coolant temps, because I can at least verify that the high speed fan comes on. I'm going to try your pointers now and will post back with results.

you guys rock!

Joe

 

Well expounded, coop.
A scangauge II is a good investment. Gives you more than coolant temps, codes & clearing. On the split coolant tank, replace w/ a Canton or an RMW. Both use real pressure caps while the Forge just uses the stock cap.

 

Shoot, I already ordered an oem replacement. I'll see if it hasn't shipped yet abd try to cancel and order the canton or rmw. I really should just buy the scanguage. I've been on the fence between a good scanner or autoenginuity. going to put my gauges in test mode now and give this a go... thank you both. I will update with results.

 

With working 2-stage fans, & pump under normal driving, coolant temps normally hover below water's boiling point, thus, pressure won't be too high. The OEM tank was probably designed for those ideal conditions. It will eventually fail, much like the stock crank pulley, control arm bushes, strut towers of our 1st gen cars. Good thing is, all these have fixes & upgrades.

 

Joe,

You want to make sure you have a good clutch solenoid/coil without remove the compressor or without put the car in service mode. So the way to do that is remove the relay of AC clutch. So in the relay itself will have a little diagram of the pin indicate the pins of the coil and pins of the contacts. The clutch of the AC must be connected via one open contact in the relay one side of the contact will be connected to 12V and the other side will be connected to the coil/solenoid of the clutch. with the relay out an don the socket of the relay by knowing in the relay diagram what is connected in what pin you will be measure the resistance of coil from the pins in the socket.

The whole dissertation of identifying the side of 12V is because you don't want to put multimeter in Ohms to measure the side that has 12V against the ground it is going to blow your multimeter.

Think like a circuit that has a battery 12V connected to a pin 1 of a switch and pin 2 of a switch connected to a bulb lamp and the the other side of lamp goes into negative of the battery. The switch is in a socket. So i remove the switch from the socket and on the socket I can see pin 1 and 2.
If I want measure the resistance of the bulb light I can use a multimeter in Ohms function and measure from pin 2 on the socket against the negative on the battery and I am measuring the resistance of the bulb light.

The concept I am trying to describe to you is similar the only difference is that the switch I am referring is equivalent a contact of relay. On the the socket of the relay you are going to have two pins one that is connected to 12V and another that is connected to coil of clutch, so you test the coil from that pin against the ground.

I hope makes more clear now.

 

I was thisclose to connecting to the 12v side to try to test the resistance of the clutch solenoid. Thank you so much (!) for warning me to only connect to the 12v side for the purpose of excluding it. I remembered reading that there was a 5amp fuse in the foot well that also referred to the ac system so I checked that and it's fine. Also made sure that the fan itself turns freely. Going to check the compressor now, and then run through the monitored heating process after. Fingers crossed!

 

Results so far...

1. I checked the compressor by finding out which was the 12v, then switching to ohms and finding the other contactor that gave me a reading. it was tough to get a solid read, but the 12v was steady as a rock when I checked that one to exclude it. the readout wavered between not reading anything at all (a 1 I think) and giving me readings between .8 and 1.9ish. I figured that meant the clutch was good and that my multimeter leads were simply not getting a solid circuit ( they're very fine pointed).

2. put the cluster into test mode for actual coolant temperature and started and ran the car ( ac off). no low speed fan at all. let it get to 230° (110° on the cluster), and I still had no low OR high speed fan. Shut the car off. High speed fan turned on until the car cooled a bit, then shut off.

I seem to have misplaced my marbles. Ever seen a test case like this?

 

That's good means your AC clutch is good anything in between 0.8 in 1.2 is good reading. The reason is anything that is a solenoid, coil or winding has what we call "emf" depend upon how is excited has one electrical reaction or consequence of electrical field produce a electricity, so that works against you measurement changing the reading. I believe your AC clutch is good. Looks like it is just your fan first stage.

 

That's great news. So the first stage being bad would stop the second stage and also the compressor from engaging? Regardless, it sounds like I have to put it into service mode or buy one of the kits.

 

A/C &2nd stage not engaging aren't related to a busted 1st stage fan resistor. Again, here's how our cooling system works:
Thermostat begins to open at 89-92° C (192° F - 198° F) and is fully open at 103° C (217° F).

Expansion Tank Cap Cap pressurizes the system to 1.1 bar (16 psi) at which point the cap valve will lift to relieve pressure.

Cooling Fan

Radiator Fan is a nine bladed fan measuring 400mm in diameter, driven by a 350 watt motor controlled by the EMS2000.

Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).

High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F, so @ around 227F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.

The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed.

 

minsanity said all. Cool and good information.
The way i quick check my AC clutch and fan 1st stage is based on his last paragraph so i just turn the AC on.

 

Additional information for reference:
Climate control overview
http://www.bmw-planet.com/lib/mini/C...20OVERVIEW.pdf

 

Hmm.. I think I might have shut the engine off 1° early yesterday, when trying to check the high speed circuit. If high speed actually does turn on when the motor is running, then I'll go about the first stage workaround. I did test the ac and first stage relay last night to make sure they were closing, and they are. I'll do much more testing today, and I'll post results if they're different than yesterday's. You guys are a huge help. Thanks!