Okay, after writingthat last bit out, I think I understand the problem, which is this: if I run the solution that chrislamb came up with, it means going through the stage II wire for both low and high speed operation, but the stage II wire is closed by the relay in the fan housing, meaning that the juice from that new-resistor-bypass isn't going to get where it needs to go. Naturally, since the low-speed wire has a duff resistor between the connector and the fan, can't go that route, either. So, here's my next proposition: I can reach the wires between the relay/resistor pack and the fan. What about cutting the stage I wire there and soldering in a short jumper to the pre-resistor wire, then proceeding with chrislamb's solution? Thoughts? Objections? Bueller?

 

Where are people getting these resistors these days? The Mouser site wants $40.00 for shipping. Is there a domestic source or an equivalent resistor that doesn't cost the earth to get?

 

I picked up a pair of 100W 0.68 ohm ones on eBay for $8 a while back which I plan on running in parallel when my current stock resistor goes out again. They look just like the Mouser ones. I haven't tested for accuracy, but I'm pretty confident they'll work fine.

Here's a .33 ohm one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-33-Ohm-0-33R-100W-Watt-Power-Metal-Shell-Case-Wirewound-Resistor-/390356577645?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae310ad6d
These look just like the ones I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-100W-0-68-Ohm-5-Chassis-Mounted-Aluminum-Clad-Resistors-Green-/230918818806?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c3d58bf6

 

Thanks for that info- I ordered one for the princely sum of $ 6.95 with free shipping. It'll take two weeks to come from a large Communist Asian country, but hey, my fan has been out for months!

 

Densmini,

Mine was ordered about 10 days ago (for $6.50) from ebay. I have confirmation that it is now in Chicago on the way to NY. Hopefully it gets here by the weekend so I get do some surgery and get my fan working properly again.

Steven

 

Hi guys. So basically I've been having the exact cooling issues as stated throughout the site and I decided to bypass the entire system and basically run an independent switch and power source along with inline fuse and relay. The only problem is that I keep blowing the fuse. I grabbed main power from the main fuse box in engine compartment, ignition from ignition wire (purple/black), ground is my switch which I will replace with a temp sensor. The power wire to the fan has an inline 30amp fuse. everything operates fine the only thing that bothers me is that all power sources are feeding 13-14 volts once the car is running. I have no idea is this is normal for r53s. I've bypassed the fuse and the fan runs fine but it starts heating up the wire. I'm running 10 guage wire to the fan, 12 guage for everything else. All significant/main power sources are putting out 14 volts under the dash and hood. I've looked all over for diagrams and I can't find one. Please help this is my daily driver :(

 

A couple of things stand out to me:
I'm a little confused on how you wired this but one thing that stands out is the wire used, remember electrical current is "flow" you need as much or more ground than power.
Also if you'r heating up a 10ga wire you definately have a restriction/resistance somewhere, if it's not in the fact you're running a smaller ground wire than power wire, your whole problem, cooling and all, may simply be a reaistance in the fan motor itself, you really should have it checked, the 13-14 volts your seeing shouldn't be an issue, but you def. shouldn't be heating up a 10ga wire, your standard electric fan motor shouldn't really require more than 14ga, the only reason Mini has to use 10ga in the system is because of the resistor & how it works.

 

I bought a basic cooling fan relay. It has four inputs: ground, constant, ignition/switch and your power out wire. When your ground/switch activates it completes the circuit sending constant power out. So basically my constant was from the main fuse/battery box, ignition from the purple/black wire on the ignition itself, my switch is inline with the ground wire for the mean time. So in order for the fan to operate the ignition must be on and my inline ground/switch must be activated. What I was planning on doing was finding/installing a fan/temp switch to provide my signal later one. I disconnected the fan and the system works perfectly. I think it comes down to the resistance from the fan like you said. The only problem is that I can't find any info on the circuit itself :( I'm pretty much troubleshooting in the dark. I hope this makes sense. By the way I'm using the ground that's coming off the fan thought the stock wiring.

 

Ill try using same gauge wire to ground out the fan hopefully that works. I appreciate your help by the way!

 

Actually that's a good idea, esp. with this issue, if it fixes it it may also give you insight that a bad factory ground may have been causing problems in the first place.
But if not, to me everyhing else sounds pretty straight forward and I'd be leaning toward a bad or failing fan motor being your problem all along, as I said earlier, there's really no reason 10 or even 12ga should be heating up just to run a fan motor.
Good Luck.

 

Just rewired the ground and no luck. I'm guessing the fan must be the culprit for all the failed resistors. It def has resistance that's the only explanation I can think of for it to keep blowing the fuse. I can see why people would overlook the fan since it will still operate when powered directly. The relay works perfectly when the fan is not connected. Once I connect it the fan spins for a split second and blows the fuse. If anyone has a spare "working" fan it might nice to see if there's a problem with the fan itself. I'm all out of ideas.... Might have to bite the bullet and buy one from rockauto and hope it lasts.

 

Fix is still working.

 

I'm heading out into the garage to do an oil change in a little bit, with the resistor on my list for later today. What gauge of wire have people been using? I have oodles of 18 gauge, but that seems a bit light for 30A, and a bit small for my splice connectors, too.

 

I used 14 gauge. it looked to.be the same as the wires for high speed. this way if the resitor craps out I can just jump it.

 

Im not sure if someone has posted this in the thread. The failure point of the original resistor is due to vibration, its a small thin wire wrapped around a ceramic cylinder. Doreman makes a replacement part that has a solid metal spring style resistor that isn't prone to the same failure. You still have to removed the whole assembly to install and splice the wires but its very straight forward and cost 50-70 dollars depending on where you purchase it from. Its designed for 03 and later fans with the single connector.
Sorry if this was mentioned prior but I wasn't going to read 11 pages of post. Ive done this multiple times on mini's and had no failures to date.

 

Again, here is the Dorman Resistor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170969660469?redirect=mobile

 

Let me give you me low-down then questions.

I just bought a 2004 MCS. The A/C doesn't work so I've been reading through these threads and troubleshooting.

I have pressure at the low side port of the A/C. About 55psi. All good there.

When I turn the A/C on the in car, no low speed fan comes on and no clutch engages.

First thing I did was check fuses. All good.

Next I checked the resistance from the R3 relay under the hood. I get open on all connections when touching a ground point.

I removed the fan connector and applied 12v to the low and high speed pins but I can't seen to get either of them to turn on. I think I'm doing something wrong there. I did here the high speed fan run last night after a spirited drive.

So my first question is will the compressor run even when the low speed fan doesn't work?

Second; is there anything else should test?

I think the compressor clutch AND resistor needs to be replaced. What are you thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Yes (it does on mine).

Just to verify the fan resistor is bad, hit the fan side of the fan connector with the old multimeter—the bottom pin is ground, the right-side pin on top is high speed, and the left side is low speed. Each of the top pins to ground should be a closed circuit.

Sounds like it to me, if the compressor isn't turning when you turn on AC.

 

Sounds like the clutch is gone to me too, but you should doublecheck first. Check out this thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...utch-coil.html

 

I just ordered the resistor and was about to order the Clutch from RockAuto, now the clutch isn't available. I was in my cart 30 mins ago.

 

There are some on eBay too:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...h+coil&_sop=15

 

My resistor arrived yesterday. Upon removing the relay/resistor combo from the fan housing, I discovered that my original resistor is intact. There is juice right up to the resistor, but none at the resistor itself, so it appears that somehow there is a break at the wire or joint inside the resistor. I'll run a few more continuity tests, but even if I find and fix the break, I'll solder on some pigtails to make the (eventual) new resistor easier to plumb in later.

 

Original fix is still working fine..................

 

Don't be smug!

 

Be HAPPY!