Title says it all.
I've got the OEM Aux gauges, which replace the regular drain plug with a temp sensor version that has all of three threads.

A couple of questions:
Anyone know how long the regular drain plug is? Only the first three threads are trashed (gone, actually) so I might be able to get away with just throwing in a regular drain plug.

Alternatively, I suppose a helicoil is in order.

Suggestions?

 

It's 9/16 to 5/8 of threads and 8 or 9 threads depending on how you count them.

You should be able to run a tap in there to clean up the threads and go with an OEM plug with no problem.

Rich

 

If your mini is an 04' the drain plug is a 14mmX1.5 use this size tap first then screw your drain plug in, not too tight!

 

Thanks for the info. Now to find a #%^%#@ 14x1.5 tap. None in this town, as far as I can tell. I was out searching today hoping to save the first threads before discovering that they were completely stripped.

Don't really understand how it stripped - it's only had six or seven changes, done by the dealer and me.

 

The dealer changed my oil last and overtightened the drain bolt so much that I could barely get it off. That is how these things get stripped....

 

Eric, you could try to find this one...
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...123_0006544145
...although it does not state the thread pitch, my friend at NAPA says it is 1.5.

 

My dealer torqued the drain plug so tight that nothing I could do would get it out; I made them remove it at no charge to me. I now have a Fumoto.

 

Eric, I can get you one for $10.00 US if you can't get one at napa but it will take some time to get it from my supplier, because of your dilema I am going to stock them so anyone at NAM can get them from me pronto. Since I deal with drain plugs all the time, I should provide the service.
But we are new to NAM as a vendor and our site is being updated as we speak. I am also going to supply a great tool for identifying bolts for SAE (american) and METRIC, coming soon. Good luck

 

Eric I'm not a big fan of Fumoto valves, but I think it may be your answer. If there are enough threads left in the pan screw the Fumoto in & you are golden.

 

I would like to add an additional note to my previous message, put a dab of NEVER-SEIZE product on the drain plug threads, please. I do so for everything I assemble, you will be glad when it comes time to remove the drain plug on a MINI because of aluminum pan and steel plug...........Dissimilar metals tend to fuse together an electrolysis fact. That's why when you put spark plugs in an aluminum head, this is what you do, you put NEVER-SEIZE on the threads of the steel spark plugs and torque them. Drain plug is 31Nm and your plug will always come off easily.

 

Thanks for all the replies! Partsman, I couldn't see your NAPA catalog, but the local NAPA store had a standard 14x1.5 drain plug (with damn near an inch of threads!) which ended up working for the time being.
(They also had a closeout on redline oil - $6/bottle )
The threads weren't galled at all, they were simply GONE.
So the bad news is that I lose my oil temp gauge, but the good news is that I'm back on the road. Will probably take it to a shop for a helicoil/timesert when it's time for the next oil change.

So much for trusting the dealer to do oil changes. After my first or second change (bought it 'pre-loved' ) it was actually leaking because it was on finger tight.

 

Sorry man, I didn't know the session would expire on the NAPA site.

Anyway, glad you found a replacement plug and that you're back on the road...that's all that matters.

You could always pull the oil pan down and drill and tap for the gauge sender...

 

The stripped threads can be fixed with a Time-Sert thread repair kit

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html




Ch
dave

 

This happened to me before on my 3-series. Front 4-5 threads from the opening of the pan got stripped. Since there were originally only 4-5 threads around the plug, obviously it won't grab. Ponder on replacing the pan or rethreading/insert. While inspecting the hole, saw it was threaded all the way inside unlike hondas where since it's sheet metal pan there's only really few usable threads. Decided to get a longer threaded plug instead and it grabs all the way to the thickness of the casted aluminum pan. I didn't wanna be thinking about if there was drill shavings left in there.

 

DavidVega has a permanent solution! The longer one your using will be fine as long as it is torqued correctly, Just a dab of anti-seize on the threads is good insurance that the plug will come out every time. A Dimple, plug has threads nearly .590" long. You will be amazed at the amount of fine metal matter the Dimple will pull out of the oil. Have good cheer, we are all here to help you.

 

Had the oil drain plug on my 2002 MCS strip my oil pan today. i searched for the best fix and found alot of different solutions. what i wind up doing was going to autozone and buying the thread insert or Helicoil or whatever you want to call them. (Part# 25609) , its a 14mmx1.5 bushing that i screwed it in the drain hole of the oil pan until it was flush. Then i went and bought a Smaller magnetic oil drain plug M12-1.75, (Part# 652126) i tightened the new oil drain plug, added the oil and no leak or any problem. it cost me about $12.00 and took me 5 minutes to fix it.
i have attached the links to show the parts i used.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=516465_0_0_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true

 

NAPA....$11.00 They sell a self tapping slightly larger drain plug that has a smaller oil drain plug in the center. I inserted mine 5 years ago, works perfect.

Save your used motor oil and then use it "one" time to flush back through the engine.