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Not being an expert, but undertanding the negative boost being vacum, I still dont get how is possible for the intake manifold to work with vacum, if even at idle it should be injecting air to the cylinders. Anyway, I managed to do a hard 3rd gear pull yesterday and got 18psi.
The intake manifold does NOT inject air. The Pistons in the motor traveling downward in their respective cylinders create VACUUM and DRAW the air/fuel mixture from the intake manifold past the open intake valve.
he tuned mine a few weeks ago, great to deal with. he had no problem meeting up on the weekend to get it taken care of
Thanks I just emailed him. Only thing about this vs. the Accessport is this would be a sunk cost immediately it seems. I like being able to take tunes on/off and have the ability to just sell the AP.
Manic can use your AP tune as the "Base" tune, in addition to their three maps. That way you still have the option of using the AP for data logging, code reading / resetting, monitoring, etc. --- I consider it a very handy tool.
Thank you for the kind words gentlemen. (We need a beer emoticon on NAM.) You have mail Dr. Spade. Hopefully I answered most of the more common questions in it but if you think of anything else please feel free to let me know.
Thank you for the kind words gentlemen. (We need a beer emoticon on NAM.) You have mail Dr. Spade. Hopefully I answered most of the more common questions in it but if you think of anything else please feel free to let me know.
Thanks Lou. Ideally I'd like to have the Stage 2 maps loaded onto my AP as it would serve as a perfectly good switch as well as continue to serve for datalogging and such. Has this been done?
I just thought i would chime in on Smog testing. Here in Vegas, they test annually. So even with a Manic tune, the secondary o2 sensor and evap will show "not ready". This wasn't enough to "fail" me, only reject.
Solution is to swap back in the stock cat and switch to stock tune every time. Just a heads up for anyone who may be coming up on smog time.
I hope Manic will somehow find a way to circumvent this in future updates.
I live in California and I had to smog my car last month and I passed with my downpipe in and my tune on. I just had to install my oem exhaust to show I had a 2nd exhaust and for my main cat he didn't really check to see the cat. After all the testing my car passed lol
As I do not have the car here with me is hard to get it out and pull data, but finally I went last weekend to do some tests. Here´s what Dashcommand reports when engine is not on, just accesories.
As I do not have the car here with me is hard to get it out and pull data, but finally I went last weekend to do some tests. Here´s what Dashcommand reports when engine is not on, just accesories.
The red dot next to the time indicates that DashCommand is NOT connected. It should be green. May be you have already disconnected when you grabbed the screen shot.
But if the car is not ON then there is not much to report. IIRC thought that the ignition needs to be ON for the OBDII port to have power.
A reading of -0.7 or -0.8PSI, with engine off, is showing atmospheric pressure as it would be read on a gauge designed for reading variations from absolute pressure, AKA "PSIG" (G for Gauge). Actual atmospheric pressure, at sea level, is usually considered to be 14.7PSI, and to read this value, you need a gauge designed to read in "PSIA" (A for Absolute). I don't even want to think about reading pressure in "Bars", but it can be done, just another set of constants to know about.
Without going thru the actual calcs, your -0.8PSI indicates you're slightly above sea level. With my engine off, my boost gauge (PSIG) indicates 5 inHg or about -3PSI, and I'm at 4500'. AP data logs indicate my absolute barometric pressure is about 12.5PSI --- with engine on and performing nicely.
DashCommand seems to be handy for reading lots of different data real time, you just gotta understand what all the different indications mean. AP can real time monitor about 80 different features, but only one at a time. Data log can handle up to 20 or so.
A reading of -0.7 or -0.8PSI, with engine off, is showing atmospheric pressure as it would be read on a gauge designed for reading variations from absolute pressure, AKA "PSIG" (G for Gauge). Actual atmospheric pressure, at sea level, is usually considered to be 14.7PSI, and to read this value, you need a gauge designed to read in "PSIA" (A for Absolute). I don't even want to think about reading pressure in "Bars", but it can be done, just another set of constants to know about.
Without going thru the actual calcs, your -0.8PSI indicates you're slightly above sea level. With my engine off, my boost gauge (PSIG) indicates 5 inHg or about -3PSI, and I'm at 4500'. AP data logs indicate my absolute barometric pressure is about 12.5PSI --- with engine on and performing nicely.
DashCommand seems to be handy for reading lots of different data real time, you just gotta understand what all the different indications mean. AP can real time monitor about 80 different features, but only one at a time. Data log can handle up to 20 or so.
So, that shows I know nothing about what your Dashcommand is reading. Obviously not the actual intake manifold pressure, but maybe some calculation from either the ECU or the Dashcommand itself. When I take a drive up to the Sierra Nevada's Mt. Rose --- 9K', engine off, electronics on, and gauge reads about 9inHg or about -6PSI. My gauge is connected directly to the intake manifold, under the MAP sensor.
I commented some months ago about El Paso being at very high elevation --- you still haven't updated your info?
Anybody got a clue what the Dashcommand is indicating???
Oldbrokenwind, I found out that after a couple of minutes with the switch on, engine off, and dashboard fully connected to OBD, the PSI went to 0. Engine on, went to -8, -7. FT went to 18 aprox. So I think now we are fine.
What Im wondering whats going on with the tune-or me- is that at the track, Im not improving my lap times and top speed is not faster that used to be with stock turbo/tune.
Does your Manic dealer know that you're at 8200', or does he think you're still in El Paso? Might be worthwhile to talk with him about getting an "adjustment" for your elevation. FYI --- Manic dealers only install the tune, they don't write the code --- that's done in London. So, if the dealer doesn't let the coder know about the abnormally high elevation, that could be a problem.
Altho, it's conceivable that the ECU automatically adjusts for altitude, and the coder doesn't need to make the adjustments. I honestly don't know enough about our ECU.
Does your Manic dealer know that you're at 8200', or does he think you're still in El Paso? Might be worthwhile to talk with him about getting an "adjustment" for your elevation. FYI --- Manic dealers only install the tune, they don't write the code --- that's done in London. So, if the dealer doesn't let the coder know about the abnormally high elevation, that could be a problem.
Altho, it's conceivable that the ECU automatically adjusts for altitude, and the coder doesn't need to make the adjustments. I honestly don't know enough about our ECU.
Yes, I let the dealer know, and I also am aware they say the ECU will adjust. But so far is what Im getting. I will update as I move on.
Consistent and the car runs OK. Max boost is 18 and it keeps it there for as long as I have road to test lol. But my butt dyno barely feels any difference. But my lap times speak for themselves I guess. Im slower now
Consistent and the car runs OK. Max boost is 18 and it keeps it there for as long as I have road to test lol. But my butt dyno barely feels any difference. But my lap times speak for themselves I guess. Im slower now
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