VP101 which is what I got to mix for my dyno run and testing, has a SG of .713 so my guess it's a good choice for us.

If you’re not sure which fuel burns faster than others, one indicator is specific gravity. “Lighter” fuels – fuels with a lower specific gravity – tend to burn faster because fast burning hydrocarbons are themselves light. Look for a specific gravity close to 0.70 and you’ll likely find a fast burning fuel.

 

I'm thinking of mounting a fitting in the air box and run a hose in the car and spray MAF cleaner every 2k miles. Haha
I cleaned my filter and "lightly" oiled the K&N
Thinking dry filter is in my future as well

 

been using oiled filters for a LONG time, trick is not to over oil them.

 

I think the real trick is to wash them off as soon as you take them out the K&N box and then oil it lightly.
I put mine in right out the box, have about 3k miles on it
I have been using them as well for a LONG time, first time I have had it mess with my MAF , but I have only owned a mini for about 7k miles, 2 years
Still learning

 

I've used one on both my R56 and r 53 never had an issue when I oil and clean I do the maf as well and never had an issue

 

Any progress to this? I would love to run a full tank of E85

Of course new tune and injectors would be in order if possible..

 

Just to iterate:
Any Manic tuned folks using a larger turbo ever have over boosting issues?
Probably the guys or gals only running 3 or higher?
I was having this issue when I bolted my E45R on for the second time.
Needle would jump right up to 30 psi.
I installed a pressure valve in the waste gate line and it works like a charm.
Its such a practical safeguard and for a peace of mind for the money, so worth it.

 

It's definitely not the issue: with the added valve the issue has been eradicated. The user ID allows for such a pun....no offense.
I cannot imagine a waste gate port being undersized as to NOT allow exhaust gases to escape sufficiently. Perhaps JMTC has an opinion but....again I always have doubts,

 

I saw a video of a guy comparing a Chinese turbo that was suppose to be a replacement to his. Turns out the wastegate port was smaller than is. He simply drilled the port bigger. Don't want to go to big so the flap still can seat.
There where other issues as well but that came to mind reading your post.

 

Again, I sincerely doubt an open waste gate would keep the boost above anything approaching over boost or creep unless the door was not properly adjusted. They just will not build any boost with the door open let alone keep it there.
I any event, these manual boost controller really does a good job safeguarding against over boost conditions. I wonder if the DME will have an issue with reading boost levels that do not match its design programmed parameters?

 

Yeah. May be a while. They are doing base maps at the moment. Both companies are extremely busy so progress is slow for now.

 

I'm saying if the hole is to small to let the over pressure out fast enough due to a small hole then you might experance over boost is all.
Just telling you what I have seen COULD be an issue . Your door could be opening just fine, your DV could be operating as it should.
If the hole to vent should be the size of a quarter and it's the size of a pencil then it will take longer to vent

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-OI7l4RdQDc

 

Ah the dangerous DIY"R video w/ the electric grinder. Lets see: a 2mm difference in this application means very little. Further and more importantly he loses significant cooling needed for the door as he has removed seat material which result in proper heat transference. Really bad idea as the WG doors are known to virtually melt away. He also mentions that he "thinks" that maybe a problem
without actually knowing. One must test and measure to know. Most of these videos should be viewed for entertainment purposes only.

 

As a fellow Manic dealer like yourself I am not sure why you would be asking these questions publicly and not asking Nick. Why would you need him to chime in on a forum when you can talk to him directly?

 

I do not get your statement if directed towards me. What is there to ask Nick about? Did I ask for Nick's opinion?
I'm not bad mouthing Manic. Nick seems too busy a guy.
I like to query the end user, the consumer for their honest experience. I feel that's what this forum is all about. In general I feel I get a more honest answer without prejudice or an agenda. Given what goes on in the "real" world with corp. BS, denials and cover ups, I'm rather surprised you would ask such a question.

 

must be the heat . . .

 

Well I agree with you , the Chinese turbos have lost parts off them while in service. .....

I just clicked the first video on a search, sorry I didn't check the tooling out more. Was just trying to show you what I was referring to that MIGHT be causing your issue

I will inform the big boys that radius cutting, back cutting and relieving on there WG port to help increase their
flow/pressure drop that they are wasting their time

Yes taking away metal can make a hot spot , I'm not saying leave .025" for a seat. Cooling ? The pressure drop being the cooling ?

Some use exhaust valves as a door for heat issues

I guess this end users will just keep his ideas to a min since you got this covered so well......

 

Overboost issue resolved.

My Thanks go to MarioKart who spent alot of his time going over my issues of seeing far too much boost. He agreed with my findings and test results and came up with a game plan. First was to remove the DV+ and go back to stock recirc valve. Well if you read GFB DV+ it states their valve gives you progressive boost BUT you can remove the spring in the valve and it will function as the factory does. So to test this I removed the spring and then did as Mario suggested , get a 3rd gear pull in stock mode ( which was giving me 16 PSI ) and low and behold I had 12.95 which is what Mario said I should have. Then switched to stage 1 Map C and I had a solid 20.8 pounds where before I was seeing 23.5 pounds, map B now 20.3 and Map A 18.3.

SO now everything is back in range . I have emailed GFB to see if they can shed any light onto why the progressive mode was causing so much of an overboost.

I'm just glad there are people like MariKart out there to help with this before my cat got destroyed, I think the motor is Ok with higher boost but I think the cat was getting hammered, but it's coming out soon and I feel confident going into a stage 2 manic tune. Depending on what GFB says I may be getting a different brand diverter valve.

 

Mario is da man, I guess rckrky, you can enjoy it now, grats

 

Glad you got the overboost sorted out, Mario and I went thru this on my car back in June, that's why I posted to try to remove the DV+ first
DV+ was rad until the new turbo, then, not so much. I will probably go for the Forge unit sooner than later.

 

I had similar issue but went with a boost control valve that can be adjusted to stop any overboosting. I too have the GFB diverter but did not think that was the issue??? Hmm.., Did u remove the bigger spring that pushes the brass piston? I think u need the smaller one to keep plunger against the back of the piston. GFB is very responsive to tech inquires.

 

I'm sure you tried changing the spring though, since it probably didn't make any difference I assume that why you went with the boost control valve? It didn't fix you over boosting did it? If removing the GFB fixed the over boost problems you could only come to one conclusion...

 

Actually I never once thought the GFB could cause over boosting; do not see how??
It does not regulate overall boost. only allows it to escape/bypass when one shuts the throttle soooo????
I have both springs installed and have never has a problem.
The boost control valve works P E R F E C T L Y..... one can control how much boost they want to run below what the max boost the tune is programmed for. Further it gives that insurance and peace of mind that one will never over boost again.

 

Hey everyone, Mario just tuned me to stage 2+, just got the ECU today and installed the colder plugs, but I'm not completely catless yet. Regardless, I'm hearing some knock on WOT in 2nd and 3rd gear as well as rough idle. Power is very nice but this is concerning enough to go back to a stock map but the rough idle is still there! Any ideas?