I have a question to all of you with Manic tune, do you have aftera tune a fault saying:

36BE - DME coding missing or incorrect VIN?

My Manic dealer is saying that it is normal, but for me this is very strange, nobody never said that after a tune that code will always stay there.

Some people around me are saying that the tune was done in a wrong way.

Do you all have that fault too?

I'm also having:

385C - generator, communication: no communication
3861 - BSD communication (generator) missing

Any help or thoughts?

2789 - air mass meter, correction signal, workspace: cycle time too low, electrical fault

So far lot's of problems after Manic tune, I'm very disappointed....

 

No post-install codes here. Sounds to me like the ECU wasn't re-connected properly. Did you mail it to the dealer and re-install it yourself, or drive to the dealer and let them do it all?

 

ECU had a long way to go, from Eastern Europe to US CA, and now I'm home and after re-connecting all those problems.
Oh and I forgot to mention that after putting ECU back my frm module stopped working. No lights, no blinkers, no electric windows etc., really hard to use a car in those conditions.

Maybe just coinsidence but I'm hearing mixed opinions.

 

I'm surprised you didn't choose a dealer closer to you. Manic's web site has quite a list --- world wide. You should still pull the connectors and inspect both cable and ECU for damaged pins / broken wires. If that doesn't help, try working with a different dealer. Stages 1 & 2 will be different on cars built for USA --- we have a MAF unit to deal with. Chances are, you don't. Are you sure you received the same DME you sent --- maybe the dealer switched yours with someone else's? Or the dealer didn't let Manic know about your specific requirements?

I wish you luck --- solving technical problems is especially tough internationally.

 

I tried to do it in UK or Germany, but getting e-mail back after 2 weeks is not a good sign of good and quick communication.
So, I had to move to US for some time so I decided that I wll take ECU with me.
The dealer in CA is the one famous dealer from this forum, and he has a good reputation, contact was also very good, so we decided to make it work.

He did many cars from Europe too, so I think it is not a problem. We have MAF also, DME looks good I did pictures before sending and numbers where ok.
If DME would be switched then there will be another guy with thisame problem

I will check cables but they all looked good when I was connecting it.
Thanks again for your help and time.

 

Call the dealer. No codes here and sounds you need to call him

 

So I got e-mail from Manic guys from UK and:

''Judging by the faults (the 36BE coding error is normal after flashing and has no negative effect) it still looks like he has an electrical fault".

So looks like everyone should have that vin incorrect fault after a flash and that it is "normall".

I don't know what to think about that.

 

Did you buy the SPS switch? if so, switch the map to stock map and see what happens.

 

Yes, I did that, still thisame after putting ECU with Manic tune.

 

Hi Badidi,

Couple of quick questions. Did you disconnect the battery prior to removing the ECU and leave it disconnected the entire time the ECU was out. Seems like a silly question but I have to ask.

Also, when I install Manic tunes via OBD I always have to clear out error codes afterwards. The ECU is aware that something unnatural has been done to it Once the codes are cleared however they do not return unless there is an actual problem with something in the vehicle. Since I look for error codes beforehand it's never been a problem. When tuning via bench I usually recommend to the client that codes that show up be cleared. Sometimes this has to be done in stages as certain codes will not clear on the first pass and must be power cycled or the engine started once before they will clear. Most codes once generated are stored and do not clear themselves.

This leads to my second question. Have you cleared the codes with a device capable of doing so and if so have these codes returned?

Lou

 

Hi Tiger2011,

yes the minus was disconnected from the battery just like the dealer told me.
The codes showed up after putting ECU back, I was trying to clear them many times but those 4 are returning. I'm using CarlyforBMW iOS, but it was also done on BMW software at the company how was trying to repair my not wroking frm module after putting back ECU.

If the one code is just from MAF, and I need a new one, because of? age? that's fine, other two codes? alternator?grounding? I will look for it and check it, but why there is incorrect vin? dealer is saying that it is normal after a flash, and nobody here is having it after a flash?

 

An update.
Finally took the car to the dyno and wanted to cry really bad. LOL. Masive lag as max torque is achieved at 4k revs (287ft-lbs) andpower is 254hp at 4.79. From there all goes downhill.

 

Don't give up yet --- plan on another dyno run at an elevation closer to sea level. There's probably gonna be a significant difference in the numbers. My highest (elevation) dyno pull was in Tempe AZ --- maybe 2000' while the others have been much closer to sea level --- ThunderHill Raceway in CA and Cobb Tuning near Portland OR. Performance at my home level of 4500' is noticeably worse. If it's any consolation, everyone else at your elevation has the same performance issue.

 

A few months ago, I pulled my ECU and took it to the Manic dealer for a minor flash --- all 3 maps, without disconnecting either battery terminal. Put it back together a week later. No codes and working fine.

 

Not as bad! Yes, granted everyone at this altitude experiences performance degradation, but with a consistent power delivery. It looks they are going to log the. Keep you posted.

 

One of the reasons it is recommend to disconnect the battery is to prevent inadvertently turning the power on multiple times with the ECU removed. Our immobilizer is the EWS 3.3 version as I recall. When the EWS and ECU are first synchronized the vehicle VIN is uploaded to both and a rolling table of numbers is uploaded from the EWS to the ECU. Each time power is cycled both units cycle forward to the next number in the sequence. Bench flashing the ECU the traditional way requires cycling the ECU power two times. The Manic bench tuning process requires cycling the power three times. When the ECU is reinstalled following tuning the EWS will roll forward up to 200 hundred numbers in the table to try and synchronize the two. If the power is applied to the vehicle more times than the ECU you run the risk of the two not being able to synchronize and triggering the immobilizer. If this occurs the EWS and the ECU have to be reset to point to the first number in the table. I know the dealer software ISTA, AutoLogic and a couple of other professional tools can perform this function but am currently unaware of any enthusiast level tools that will.

 

Just got MANIC tune locally from kelvin@pws here in Vancouver.

I have R56 MCS 07 N14 , 105,000 km (65000 miles). Evolve catless DP, second cat deleted, Helix FMIC, GFB DV+, JCW Cone Airbox.

Prior to the MANIC tune, I had carbon cleaning done, oil changed and radiator fluid flushed.

I purchased the MANIC Stage 2b. The kelvin recommended me to get 1 heat range colder plugs. I also went ahead and got IP coils.



I have 3 different tunes in the pass, starting from JCW Stage 1 to Alta AP and finally to MANIC. I put about

JCW Tuning Kit - 30000 km
Alta AP - 40000 km

Pros:
MANIC tune is very different from Alta AP. First thing you will notice is the coolant temp is lowered by 10 to 15 C when the car is at operating temperature.

The power delivery can only be described as SMOOTH. Compared to Alta AP, its a million times better. The idle bounce is gone. The random jittery under acceleration Alta AP map is gone. Compare to JCW Tuning kit, the differences is even bigger. Overall, the car feels move alive and torque delivery feel just right.

Cons: [Updated Aug 5 2016]
There is some tiny little pop and bang going from 1 to 2, a little bit from 2 to 3. After that, there is no more pop and bangs. I am kinda disappointed that MCS 07 does not have any pops at all. I'm talking to the manic and see what they can do about it. Every other models have pops and except for 07.

As for the Ignition Project Coils, the difference is marginal. I ran Stage 2b for 250 km on stock coils and compared it with Ignition Project Coils. It honestly feels very little difference. It's hard to give a honest answer since there is so many new parts installed. I did have coils, plugs, carbon cleaning and tuned all at the same time. I did notice that on stock coil near the rev limit, it does not pull as hard when compare to the IP coils.

If you are in the Canada / Vancouver area, contact kelvin@pws for MANIC tunes. Highly recommended!

 

What month was your car built? I have a 09/2007 build '07 S. Our mods are quite similar and I get several pops in all gears depending on when I shift. Also, what elevation and temperate do you live in? I'm pretty hot and humid in Iowa. Usually 80-100% humidity here. Not sure if it makes a difference or not, just trying to gather data.

 

My is 2007-01-13

One of the very first batch to roll off the line. :(

 

Probably doesn't apply, but my Manic stage 4 has all kinds of pops and bangs, that I didn't ask for, they just happened --- mostly after a higher RPM than usual shift point. My build date is 9/07. I've heard that tuners can request more "pops and bangs" from Nick, you might ask for some.

 

I have what I call lots of them, and even more in sport mode. For me, it came to the point where I dont like. I dont know if they can harm in any way, but its just too much.

 

My car was disconnected for 3 months (negative on battery) after putting back manic tune, frm module was not recognized (no lights, no power windows etc.), looks like my MAF sensor is also dead, I'm getting 2789 fault, and incorrect vin 36be which my dealer is saying it is normal after flashing ecu with manic but looks like noones here have that fault after flash.

 

I just had the 36BE code appear on a clients vehicle. Between your report and this one I started researching the issue. Based on testing the 36BE code seems to be triggered when the newest BMW DME code is loaded on a vehicle that is more than two software revision behind. The Manic tuning process can only update the DME not the other ECU's in the vehicle. Normally when a DME is updated at the dealer the rest of the vehicle coding is updated as well. It appears that this software mismatch is responsible for triggering the code. If the VIN were not coded into the DME the vehicle wouldn't start.

The previous clients vehicle was from out of state so I was not able to address the issue. Now that we have the ability at Prototype-R to perform a full vehicle update I will be testing this on Vlad if I can duplicate the error. In addition, my next client in South Florida that runs into this issue will be offered a full vehicle update for free to confirm if this resolves this nuisance code.

The other codes you have do appear to be hardware related but it's also possible that your FRM lost its coding. If so recoding it may solve that issue without having to replace it.

Lou

 

We have confirmed that updating the entire vehicle eliminates the VIN code error. When I can get some spare time I hope to be able to determine if just a few specific ECU's can be updated as opposed to the entire vehicle. Six plus hours for a full vehicle update plus the time for a Manic tune makes for a long day.

 

Updates.
And they come slow as it looks Manic is so busy. Looks like there is an epidemy with these cars at altitude and it has nothing to do with oxygen levels, as oxygen ratio in the atmosphere keeps the same. Then if we get to the desired PSI, we will have same oxygen here as we have at sea level. What it looks is happening is that ECU knows the turbo has to work harder to get to the target PSI, so it reduces the PSI at some point to avoid it to overspin. Looks like no tuner has been able to "defeat" this protection, as the same boost drop happens with other tunes.


Boost comes slow anyway, so car feels like, well, like it was a SUV