I tried a cheap ebay IC and it hardly cooled at all; as I recall temps around 160-180??
Installed a Helix it cools to 1-4 above ambient.

 

Finally pulled the trigger and installed a 47mm Turbo with Manic stage 3. I have a number of supporting mods like IC, DP, etc. Maps are going to be stock, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5(only for meth). I wonder what to expect at 8000ft over sea level.

 

Awesome! Are you also running supporting internals?

 

Not now as boost levels seem to be low (below 19psi)

 

So much to learn --- what is 1.3, 1.4. & 1.5?

As for 8000 ft above sea level, remember, everyone else around you is at the same elevation, so they have the same "handicap". And, I'm having trouble believing El paso is anywhere near 8000 ft above sea level. But, take it back closer to sea level --- you'll notice significant improvements. Might even consider relocating.

 

Ahh, those are boost levels measured in bars.
1.3 bar = 18.8549 PSI
1.4 bar = 20.3053 PSI
1.5 bar = 21.7557 PSI
Im not in El Paso, TX, lol, signature not updated, sorry.

 

My boost gauge is in PSI, so I didn't even think of bars. My maps vary by WMI, not boost ---
A = zero WMI (for when / if I run out)
B = 80 - 20 mix
C = 100% meth
I'm also using a manual boost controller, and it's adjusted to a constant maximum. Foot pressure determines when it's max.

Another thought about reading boost gauges at elevation ---
Insert key and press start without starting the engine.
Note the boost gauge reading (at 4500' mine reads about -3PSI. at 9000' it reads about -6).
This reading should be considered your "zero" PSI value when monitoring boost. So when I'm at full boost (30PSI) my gauge reads 27PSI. I verified this by driving to the coast a few times. 'Course all boost gauges don't work the same way, so this might not work for you. Try it and let us know?

 

Excellent!.
My maps are what the Manic Dealer told me they do, not really something I decided or designed.
Thanks on the boost clarification, I only have Dashcommand, so boost levels are going to be what the ECU reports. I dont know if theres any difference with a real boost gauge.

 

DashCommand reports boost thru a PID that subtracts barometric pressure (sensor in the ECU) from manifold absolute pressure (MAP sensor). So what you see is what your really getting in terms of boost.

 

Thanks, so when I see negative boost in Dashcommand, what does that mean?

 

It means the manifold pressure is in the negative. This is normal operation for any N/A engine and ours when not in boost (idle/cruising). It's also why dashcommand will report absolute load values above 100%. At 100% load your manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure. When in boost your load values will exceed 200%.

If using a boost gauge you will see higher negative values on your N14 JCW vs the GP2 since the N14 is using the throttle valve to control airflow.

 

To clarify, negative numbers mean vacuum (less than atmospheric) since it is impossible to have negative pressures.

 

Touche` mon frere. ^^^ Yeah for our purposes what he said.

I can't resist poking the bear though. ;-)
Ref: Proceedings of the NATO Advanced Research Workshop on Liquids Under Negative Pressure (2002) ISBN:978-1-4020-0896-2

 

Not being an expert, but undertanding the negative boost being vacum, I still dont get how is possible for the intake manifold to work with vacum, if even at idle it should be injecting air to the cylinders. Anyway, I managed to do a hard 3rd gear pull yesterday and got 18psi.

 

Air flows from higher pressure to lower pressure areas. I think the piston movement causes the vacuum. Which allows air to be sucked into the engine when the turbo is not boosting/forcing air into the engine.

 

Question for Minimoic --- what does your DashCommand tool indicate for manifold pressure / vacuum when the engine is not running and the electronics are switched on (as I described earlier), while you are at or near 8000' elevation?

Also, is your stage 4 currently installed?

And pepperwhiteknight is correct about pistons creating the vacuum. It's often measured in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero being ambient or atmospheric pressure. At idle (900 RPM), my gauge indicates about 22 inHg --- in the manifold, not the ECU reading (which I virtually never monitor).

 

I forgot to read at idle/electronics switched on. The car is not with me now, but once I have a change I will verify it again, but I remember something like -4. Yes, the software and turbo are in now. I tried map b for the 3rd gear pull, max was 18psi.

 

So, if you read -4 PSI with electronics switched on and the engine is NOT running (zero RPM, not at "idle"), you can consider this the "base" number for actual boost, i.e., when the DashCommand indicates 18 PSI, your actual boost is 4 + 18 or 22 PSI. Gotta remember, this "base" number will vary as your elevation varies, so don't put a lot of faith in the exact boost value. Having retired from the world of electronics manufacturing, there's considerations like calibration, accuracy, tolerances, etc, to be considered. For our purposes, what we see on our own equipment is good enough, as long as we understand what we're seeing.

 

OK I will double check and report back.

Back to the tune/turbo itself, my butt dyno tells me there´s no much difference with stock. I can not say its day/night change. Its very linear and it feels it wont stop pulling, but not a huge change. Im planing on taking the car to the dyno this week.

 

You want a huge change? Take it down closer to sea level. Not necessarily a change between stock and Manic, just a very noticeable improvement in performance.

When you say map C is only for meth, do you mean 100%? Do you already have a WMI system, or is map C for future use?

Be sure to post dyno results ---

 

I didnt know what to expect. Just wanted to play a liitle bit because I was able to put my hands on a 47mm turbo. Im not looking for big HP numbers, just as you said. Solid and consistent power delivery.

I have to talk to Manic about map C. I understand its only fot w/m use as it advances timing a lot, but dont know the mix.

I have a Howerton MINI specific kit that Im installing these days, not yet in the car.

 

You'll like the Howerton, 'specially if it's his HFS-4 model. Be sure to use the purest Meth you can find. VP makes an M1 that has been problem-free for 3+ years for me. Had lots of grief with cheaper stuff. Work with Way when selecting the jet size and location.

 

Yes, its the HFS-4. I will report back once done.

 

Ohh I forgot to mention about the tune itself. In sport mode, too many bangs and explosions when off-throttling. I have a decat downpipe and it was just too much.

 

Pops and gurgles are popular with manic. Some even have the "flame-thrower" version. Talk with your Manic installer, he should be able to work with Nick and minimize or eliminate them. Mine are minimal in normal driving mode --- almost never use sport mode. I gotta try it sometime --- I might like the performance in Manics version.