I have been reading the various posts and would appreciate feed back as to if I’ve got this straight for H stock:

I should order a Cooper with Sport Suspension Plus and the 15” R81 7 hole wheels.

How are the 15’s better than 16’s, which are mentioned other places as better for handling, even if the 16’s weighed the same? Is anyone running any other 15’s than OEM’s?

What tires do you recommend?

Are the multifunction steering wheels legal? I like the sport seats for comfort and extra support - are they legal and/or do they add weight?

Do I want Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)?

I understand the best investment is driving school.

You can change the air filter element, shocks, struts, spark plug wires, cat-back exhaust, brake pads, and/or fluids - right? But, do these improve performance much? If so what do you change and brands used?

Are there other changes I missed?

But, I can not change the pedals ?

Otherwise, race day I can run on a near empty tank to save weight, and can pull the spare and jack, but do I want to due to weight distribution?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

I'll go at these with a National level Cooper in mind:

>>I should order a Cooper with Sport Suspension Plus and the 15” R81 7 hole wheels.

The wheels are irrelevant if you're going to run a lighter aftermarket 16" wheel with 215/40R16 Hoosiers

>>How are the 15’s better than 16’s, which are mentioned other places as better for handling, even if the 16’s weighed the same? Is anyone running any other 15’s than OEM’s?

If the 16's weighed the same, the 15's wouldn't be better for handling, it's unsprung weight you're looking for. The 15's must be 5.5" wide, that's their downfall. A lightweight 16" can be 6.5" wide, MUCH better for handling. The SSR Comp in a 16x6.5 is lighter and wider than the stock 15" and therefore would be the better wheel to have.

>>What tires do you recommend?

Tires for the street? I'm really liking the Toyo T1-S's, even having come from the Falken Azenis.
For H Stock? That depends on what wheel size you go with. The Kumho Ecsta V710 should be very competitive, but there's no good 16" sizes yet, so the 205/50R15 would be appropriate. If you're going to run 16's, the 205/45R16 Hoosier A or R3S04 would be a wise choice.

>>Are the multifunction steering wheels legal? I like the sport seats for comfort and extra support - are they legal and/or do they add weight?

All options are legal for Stock, only when they can only be bought and installed by the dealer or aftermarket are they not legal. Sport seats would be a FINE choice. I don't believe they add any significant weight (maybe a pound).

>>Do I want Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)?

That's up to you, you won't be using it for autocrossing.

>>I understand the best investment is driving school.

You're far better off in investing in driving instruction and time before modifications.

>>You can change the air filter element, shocks, struts, spark plug wires, cat-back exhaust, brake pads, and/or fluids - right? But, do these improve performance much? If so what do you change and brands used?

Having done this for awhile in MINI's, I can tell you that all I've changed is the air filter (K&N), exhaust, and I'm about to do Koni Shocks. I generally run Red Line fluids. Pads are a waste and can generally cause problems by making the brakes too touchy. I love the Supertrapp for exhaust puposes, but for the most part, make sure it looses some weight, you're certainly not going to get a huge hp gain on the Cooper.

>>Are there other changes I missed?

You've got it covered pretty well.

>>But, I can not change the pedals

Brian

 

I agree with the suggestions mentioned.

If you have not already ordered your car here are some additional weight saving tips.

Avoid ordering options that add more weight since a lighter MINI will autocross much better.
Dual Sunroof- heavy and raises the MINI's center of gravity
Harmon Kardon audio option- adds extra audio equiptment
6 CD changer- adds weight
Trip computer/NAV/ Alarm- some weight and complexity
Roof rack

If you choose to autocross with aftermarket rims you have to make sure that the offset is within legal limits not just the size and that it is light weight.

Remove the spare tire if it comes with one before you autocross. Along with the floormats which you'd do anyway.

 

and after you buy your Cooper get a 4 point harness, such as Schroth makes, by a couple small carabiners and hook the back points into the baby seat anchors.

That harness snugged up will make you feel more comfortable as you start tossing about the course.

And don't forget a proper helmet.

Enjoy and welcome!

HSAugs

 

Brian went over things pretty well... as for the wheel choice... I would go with the 15" setup for a few reasons... one you will get a better ride quality on the street... and two you will not be stuck with stock runflat tires on a car with a spare... oh and it is cheaper too... The stock 16" wheels are quite heavy... as a further pluss if you go with aftermarket street wheels you can use the 15s for rain race tires or even for your dry race rubber.... I will be testing a 15" wheel and Kuhmo V710 setup soon so keep an eye on that thread... last year I used a 16" wheel (NZO Monza from AK tires in Miami) with Kumho V700 tires... I am saving the 16s for later in the year and if the 710 comes out in a good size I will switch back to the 16" setup.... or I may go to Hoosiers if I am not happy with the new Kumhos...

SSP and sport seats are a great idea... the MFSW is good too if you want cruise C.

avoid the sunrood... and most other options like HK sound ect.... the only other option you may want is the Headlight upgrade... it adds a few pounds but rumor has it you get slightly stiffer front springs as a trade off... I am annal about weight so I do not have that option...

Good luck!!!!

 

Neither the H Stock winning car I drove or my Cooper S really have any options (the Cooper had SSP, Sport Seats, and MFSW). It really helps the weight as you'll see on some threads where few people have an "S" as light as mine. Weight is critical in autocrossing because of the "tossing" you do with the car, every thing you can keep off will make the car handle and feel better.

I have to take this moment to plug one of my sponsors, the "CG Lock".
Augs mentioned the harness, and I can honestly tell you my harness goes unused and the CG Lock is used every time I get in the car. It basically attaches to the belt and allows you to quickly cinch the lapbelt without restraining your upper body. It's definitely a preference thing, but I love using it.
Sorry for the ad...

Brian

 

Yeah what he said^^^^. The reason I have said in the past to go with the 7 holes is to save the $500 the V Spokes as an option. I would suggest going with aftermarket 16s (SSR or AKs) and Hoosiers.

 

I ordered my MINI with the 16"s.....Not because I was going to use these wheels for autocross but because I like the look of the 5 spoke wheel in white. Obviously it's up to you but for $500 you will not be able to buy a set of wheels and tires that equal the quality. Yeah, the 15's are nice and light but since they are only 5.5" wide I never saw myself having much use for them. Of course, I do not live where it snows. Just my 2 cents......Have fun ordering your MINI, there's nothing like owning a car you get to make all the choices on.

Stuart

 

This group is great. Thanks for all the info. To back off the “National level Cooper” what are a little more affordable tires at 16”?

I’ll definitely go with the 15’s from the factory for street or snow tires – I’m in Iowa – and then aftermarket 16’s.

After catching the Mini bug and test driving them, I have to wait till next year as a few thing$ came up. If I get delayed again till near when the 2006 1.6l 140hp 6-speed comes out will it still be in H stock? Do you think it would be worth waiting for?

On the pedals I just like the look of the S’s or other metal pedals.

 

Unless there are some drastic changes, I can't see that Cooper being in H Stock. People are already complaining it's an overdog.

As far as affordable autocross tires in 16", right now it's shaved Kumho Ecsta V700's in 205/45R16 or perhaps (although expensive) the Hoosier R3S04 in the same size. There's always the idea of Falken Azenis in 215/45R16, just not a truly competitive tire for Stock.
If you go with the 15's, any 205/50R15 Kumho will fit the bill nicely, or even a Toyo RA-1, they last forever.

Brian

 

I hadn't heard about the 140hp Cooper. I think that would be a great car. I am not a fan of forced induction, but want more power for the street. We should start a petetion now with the help of some well connected SCCA members (that is a not too subtle hint BGarfield) to keep all Coopers in HStock. If the meaner, greener Focus stays, the Cooper should stay. I am about to chuck HStock and go FSP. I am thinking a 200 hp NA MINI with Ledas, camber plates, control arms, some crazy offset 15x8s, ECU upgrade, new cams, individual throttle runner bodies, headers, exhaust port work. Now, where did I put that Visa card? My kids are smart they can get scholarships.

 

Here is a link to info on the new 130-140hp engine: http://www.motoringfile.com/2004/01/...hange#comments

If not H stock, what woud it probably be in?

 

Wish I could wait for the 2006 model but I'm Jonesing so hard as it is, I don't think I could wait for an ordered one.

I suggest cloth seats. I hate it when my skinny butt slides around.

Definitely go 16". Grassroots Motorsports did a head-to-head comparison and the 16's were three tenths faster over a 40 second course. (Yes, on a Cooper.)

 

Honestly Chris, I don't think a 140hp Cooper should be in H Stock. If they don't make it heavier (even loose weight), it's a good fit for G Stock. No, it doesn't have the "S" power, but as I've said before, it doesn't need THAT much power.

If not in H Stock, it would be in G Stock. With the 140hp 2300lb Celica GT (that has neg. camber).

I would suggest the Cloth sports seats also, I took a pre-spec stripper with vinyl and let me tell you, you begin to sweat quickly during the warmer months. But to tell you the truth, you DON'T slide around on them.

The only comment I'll make about that Grassroots test was this, IMO it's irrelevant due to tire model changes...and their methods. (My first National event in a MINI was the 2002 Petersburg Pro, I won that on 15" 7 holes with 205/50R15 Kumho Victoracer V700's, and it was warm and dry.)
But the end result of the 16's being better is probably correct.

Brian

_________________
2002 SCCA Pro Solo H Stock Champion/ STX Cooper S in 2003/G Stock Cooper S in 2004. Moderator: PRO SOLO and G STOCK
garfield@northamericanmotoring.com

 

I am coming up on time to change my break pads (come 9/28 I will have 43k miles and 24 months of driving). At the start of this thread it was suggested to stay with the stock pads. My MC is driven daily on the street and I autocross when I can. I do not mind the chore of washing the wheels when I compare that chore to how much I want the breaks work (feel and stopping when cold). So far I'm thinking of staying with the stock pads - but I am open to suggestions. The car (and me) have to many options (we are weighted down), the SS+ and NZO wheels with Falken (once worn out they will be replaced with R rated tires) if it makes a difference to your answer. I have only run a few autocross events so I consider myself a rookie (and prove that point for those who do not know better with each and every run).
Thanks in advance,
John

 

I use the Porterfield R4S pads front and rear. They dust like crazy, but they seem to wear like Iron. I have 60,000 miles on my set and they are less than half worn. The biggest drawback on my set of pads is the rears do not have the retaining clips so they rattle, alot. But since I have a very early set they may have added the clips to the current version.

Other folks are of the opionion that the stock pads work great and there is no need to use better pads. I don't know... I put these pads on the day I got the car home from the dealer.

 

DaCrema,

You do mostly street driving and some autocross. Stock pads would be OK but they do create lots of nasty brake dust which can damage your wheels if not cleaned off regularly.
You can upgrade to EBC green pads (about $80 per pair) or Mintex Red box (about $40 per pair) and get less dust but the performance for autocross will be about the same as using the stock pads. This is because autocross is so short only about a minute of driving and you are still using stock rotors.

So if you do regularly clean you wheels you can choose any of the above but if you go with a pad with less dust then you will have more time to drive and less dirty hands.

 

I was thinking about the EBC Green pads. Have not heard much about the Mintex Red box or Porterfield pads. For fun drives I push the corners in mountains (hills to left costers) of VA. I still have a good bit of pad left. I must confess I would like more time to drive the car and less time washing. Thanks both of you taking time to reply.
John

 

I had a set of Porterfield R4S (note that the R4 pads are "race" pads) on my WRX. The rear pads required trimming to function without binding. Not a pleasant job to grind them down. They are superior to the stock pads but they're not cheap, $149 Front & $129 Rear. I don't think they're worth the extra cost for occasional autox. You really have to have a deft touch with the middle peddle to get full performance.

There seems to be no down side to the Red Box pads. Their performance is apparrently slightly better than our stock pads but are fairly cheap. The dust is minimal and few reports of squeaking.

The green stuff pads are authorized for street use but aren't that affective from stone cold. Once warm (or kept warm) they offer great performance until they're over heated. There are many that swear by them, while others swear at them.

You need to decide what you're willing to chance and/or pay for the last 10% of performance.