Hello,

I recently purchased a new to me (85K mls) Countryman S All4. I am trying to track down some of the issues on it, and I got my check engine codes scanned today. The codes returned:
(3) P0442 Small EVAP Leak
12828 Tank Ventilation and Purge Air System Fine Leak

I also get a close gas cap notification from time to time. I have tried replacing the gas cap, no luck.

I can also smell gas vapors near the rear of the car when the tank is relatively full. Is this something that anyone else has run into, and what should I check regarding this?

Thanks!
Jack

 

Evap charcoal canister & vent valve likely need replacing.

 

I took the car to Pep Boys today for a diagnostic. They told me that the vent valve solenoid was inoperative, either it has failed or there is a bad electrical connection going to it from the ECU. Is anyone able to advise where the evap canister and vent valve are on an R60? I haven't been able to find any information on this. Thanks!

 

Drivers side wheel & rear fender well needs to be removed and you'll find it above & in front of the wheel.

 

Thank you! I will report back once I get in there.

 

So I removed the fender well fabric and was met only with the fuel fill line and a metal wall. Going under the car, I removed the plastic shield in the same general area and located the charcoal canister and the leak detect pump. Looking at the canister, I see three pipes, but I cannot tell what is what. One on the pump, and two on the canister itself. Anyone know where each pipe leads to, or which one would lead to the vent valve?

I've attached photos of the canister and the lines on my car in case it helps anyone identify which line leads to the vent valve solenoid.

Thanks!


Photo of the charcoal canister showing the three connections. The one on the right is connected to the leak sensor.

Image taken of the underside of my R60.

 

Updating in case it helps anyone:

From left to right:
Leftmost hose goes to engine for burnout.
Middle hose (double sided arrow) goes to the top of the fuel fill line to collect the vapors.
Rightmost hose connects to the white box, known as the Leak Diagnosis Pump, which is the vent solenoid, pump, and heater, and this goes to the passenger rear wheel well to a filter for air venting.

My BMW-specific scanner reports a failure at the Leak Diagnosis Pump, however it reports that everything inside it has failed. I purchased a new pump and connected it, and when trying to manually activate or deactivate the valves, I get a rapid clicking noise. It appears to be coming from somewhere underneath the car, towards the front/under the engine. I tried blowing through the valve as it was activated/deactivated, however it does not seem to have opened or closed. Here is a link to the video showing this noise:
The codes report an open circuit on the pump, heater, and solenoid (the entire Leak Diagnosis Module).
Has anyone had this or know what could be causing this noise? Thanks!

 

Felt like I had to add to this conversation, if for no other reason, than to save even one other person the aggravation I have gone through just locating the damn Leak Detection Pump. So after searching Youtube and Google, and finally finding this Godsend of a group, I was finally able to locate the pump on my 2015 Countryman ALL4S.

It is located up under the rear passenger side wheel well skirting. I had removed the rear plastic rock shields on both the right and left sides, as others have mentioned for different years of Countryman models, and couldn't locate the pump anywhere. Finally, I traced the vent tube from the driver's side, over the tank, and up under the skirting. So far, I have read of no other models that have the pump in this location. Pardon me if this is old news to some, but I have yet to read this anywhere else after hours of searching.

I'm hoping that replacing the leak detection pump will clear the codes P2402, P1447, and P1449. I am using a cheap OBD II code reader that doesn't seem to be able to clear MINI/BMW codes. I will search other threads on here for code reader recommendations. Any responses are appreciated.
Thanks to those that contributed to this thread!

 

Also updating in case it helps, the issue was not the evap system itself, but a failed high pressure fuel pump that had blown a hole in itself, and allowed fuel and vapors to leak, causing the smell and setting the codes.

 

THANK YOU!

Working on the wifes Countryman... two issues with it. Long crank times if it sits for awhile, without firing... and occasionally a small EVAP leak.
Did the gas cap. no change... suspected fuel pump issues, but I was thinking of the low pressure/lift pump... but that makes perfect sense.
If the high pressure fuel pump fails, its both an evap leak and a slow leakdown of fuel causing the cranking needed before it fires up.