2C57 low charging pressure and/or not plausible
#1
2C57 low charging pressure and/or not plausible
Having an issue with my 2012 Countryman S All4, 84k miles
If I cruise at highway speed (70 ish, 2200 RPM) for a bit, I will get a Reduced Engine Power Icon (Half Yellow Engine) and the turbo won't spool. Scan tool shows error 2C57 (low charging pressure and/or not plausible)
Just replaced the diverter valve with a Forge Piston version, (the spring inside the factory one was actually broken) and the issue persists.
Where is my next step in solving this?
If I cruise at highway speed (70 ish, 2200 RPM) for a bit, I will get a Reduced Engine Power Icon (Half Yellow Engine) and the turbo won't spool. Scan tool shows error 2C57 (low charging pressure and/or not plausible)
Just replaced the diverter valve with a Forge Piston version, (the spring inside the factory one was actually broken) and the issue persists.
Where is my next step in solving this?
Last edited by Darksideblues42; 06-08-2018 at 05:55 PM.
#2
My 2012 Countryman S All4 is doing the same thing, with the same code. Highway speeds and put it under a load, like going up an incline where you have to push on the accelerator but not enough to downshift, and the half-engine malfunction light pops up and it goes into limp mode, right?
Mine was diagnosed as the wastegate not closing fully, resulting in a loss of boost and the codes being thrown at me.
I had been trying for a few months to diagnose the problem.
The solution: Just ordered an upgraded turbo from JMTC. You will need to replace your turbo most likely.
They diagnosed mine by running it down the freeway hooked up to their computer to read boost pressure and saw it wasn’t where it was supposed to be, and it threw the code on them as well. Then they inspected the wastegate with a borescope and saw it is not closing fully under vacuum.
It sounds like you are having the exact same issue. If it’s not a 2011 you won’t be covered under the warranty extension, I’m going through that battle as we speak. I finally said screw it, and decided to fix it myself ASAP, so I ordered a replacement today.
That really sucks, I definitely feel for you, it’s an expensive fix. The dealership wants over $3500 to do the repair. I just ordered a JCW type turbo, all the install parts, and a couple of other things as well, and am still way under half of what the dealership wants to charge. If you are able, you can save $ by doing it yourself.
I don’t know about yours but mine is an automatic. Here’s what to do in the meantime until you get it fixed: I have just been manually downshifting a gear before an incline that I think (or know from experience) will trigger the code and limp mode. Just downshift before you need to give it more gas, and you won’t throw the code, rpm and boost go up and the ECU thinks all is well. It’s a half measure for sure, but it may save your sanity until you can fix it.
If you like, I’ll let you know how it went doing mine myself, I’ll probably try to do it next weekend, if everything arrives by then.
Good luck
Mine was diagnosed as the wastegate not closing fully, resulting in a loss of boost and the codes being thrown at me.
I had been trying for a few months to diagnose the problem.
The solution: Just ordered an upgraded turbo from JMTC. You will need to replace your turbo most likely.
They diagnosed mine by running it down the freeway hooked up to their computer to read boost pressure and saw it wasn’t where it was supposed to be, and it threw the code on them as well. Then they inspected the wastegate with a borescope and saw it is not closing fully under vacuum.
It sounds like you are having the exact same issue. If it’s not a 2011 you won’t be covered under the warranty extension, I’m going through that battle as we speak. I finally said screw it, and decided to fix it myself ASAP, so I ordered a replacement today.
That really sucks, I definitely feel for you, it’s an expensive fix. The dealership wants over $3500 to do the repair. I just ordered a JCW type turbo, all the install parts, and a couple of other things as well, and am still way under half of what the dealership wants to charge. If you are able, you can save $ by doing it yourself.
I don’t know about yours but mine is an automatic. Here’s what to do in the meantime until you get it fixed: I have just been manually downshifting a gear before an incline that I think (or know from experience) will trigger the code and limp mode. Just downshift before you need to give it more gas, and you won’t throw the code, rpm and boost go up and the ECU thinks all is well. It’s a half measure for sure, but it may save your sanity until you can fix it.
If you like, I’ll let you know how it went doing mine myself, I’ll probably try to do it next weekend, if everything arrives by then.
Good luck
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Darksideblues42 (06-11-2018)
#3
My 2012 Countryman S All4 is doing the same thing, with the same code. Highway speeds and put it under a load, like going up an incline where you have to push on the accelerator but not enough to downshift, and the half-engine malfunction light pops up and it goes into limp mode, right?
Mine was diagnosed as the wastegate not closing fully, resulting in a loss of boost and the codes being thrown at me.
I had been trying for a few months to diagnose the problem.
The solution: Just ordered an upgraded turbo from JMTC. You will need to replace your turbo most likely.
They diagnosed mine by running it down the freeway hooked up to their computer to read boost pressure and saw it wasn’t where it was supposed to be, and it threw the code on them as well. Then they inspected the wastegate with a borescope and saw it is not closing fully under vacuum.
It sounds like you are having the exact same issue. If it’s not a 2011 you won’t be covered under the warranty extension, I’m going through that battle as we speak. I finally said screw it, and decided to fix it myself ASAP, so I ordered a replacement today.
That really sucks, I definitely feel for you, it’s an expensive fix. The dealership wants over $3500 to do the repair. I just ordered a JCW type turbo, all the install parts, and a couple of other things as well, and am still way under half of what the dealership wants to charge. If you are able, you can save $ by doing it yourself.
I don’t know about yours but mine is an automatic. Here’s what to do in the meantime until you get it fixed: I have just been manually downshifting a gear before an incline that I think (or know from experience) will trigger the code and limp mode. Just downshift before you need to give it more gas, and you won’t throw the code, rpm and boost go up and the ECU thinks all is well. It’s a half measure for sure, but it may save your sanity until you can fix it.
If you like, I’ll let you know how it went doing mine myself, I’ll probably try to do it next weekend, if everything arrives by then.
Good luck
Mine was diagnosed as the wastegate not closing fully, resulting in a loss of boost and the codes being thrown at me.
I had been trying for a few months to diagnose the problem.
The solution: Just ordered an upgraded turbo from JMTC. You will need to replace your turbo most likely.
They diagnosed mine by running it down the freeway hooked up to their computer to read boost pressure and saw it wasn’t where it was supposed to be, and it threw the code on them as well. Then they inspected the wastegate with a borescope and saw it is not closing fully under vacuum.
It sounds like you are having the exact same issue. If it’s not a 2011 you won’t be covered under the warranty extension, I’m going through that battle as we speak. I finally said screw it, and decided to fix it myself ASAP, so I ordered a replacement today.
That really sucks, I definitely feel for you, it’s an expensive fix. The dealership wants over $3500 to do the repair. I just ordered a JCW type turbo, all the install parts, and a couple of other things as well, and am still way under half of what the dealership wants to charge. If you are able, you can save $ by doing it yourself.
I don’t know about yours but mine is an automatic. Here’s what to do in the meantime until you get it fixed: I have just been manually downshifting a gear before an incline that I think (or know from experience) will trigger the code and limp mode. Just downshift before you need to give it more gas, and you won’t throw the code, rpm and boost go up and the ECU thinks all is well. It’s a half measure for sure, but it may save your sanity until you can fix it.
If you like, I’ll let you know how it went doing mine myself, I’ll probably try to do it next weekend, if everything arrives by then.
Good luck
Let me know what you uncover.
Any issues with ordering the JCW turbo vs the Stock one? Will be ordering parts sooner than later. My mileage has tanked, and it seems like the Forge DV I ordered isn't working well, the computer is claiming the Blow Off Valve is stuck closed.
#4
Let me know what you uncover.
Any issues with ordering the JCW turbo vs the Stock one? Will be ordering parts sooner than later. My mileage has tanked, and it seems like the Forge DV I ordered isn't working well, the computer is claiming the Blow Off Valve is stuck closed.
Any issues with ordering the JCW turbo vs the Stock one? Will be ordering parts sooner than later. My mileage has tanked, and it seems like the Forge DV I ordered isn't working well, the computer is claiming the Blow Off Valve is stuck closed.
I’m going to wait and see how it does just with what I’m putting on it first.
Arric at JMTurbo Coopers was really prompt about returning emails and answering the questions that I had. So far a top notch experience.
Last edited by MrGrumpy; 06-11-2018 at 03:04 PM.
#5
New Turbo installed today, along with oil catch can, Forge Recirculation valve, and some other goodies.
Everything looks great....until I get up to 30 mph. Then car gets very angry, runs rough, skipping, etc. Live data shows Cylinder 3 miss fire.
Need to wait until the morning because I don't have the 14mm deep socket for our godforsaken spark plugs, which has to be the issue because the wires test good, the coil tested good, so spark plug is my next stop.
Everything looks great....until I get up to 30 mph. Then car gets very angry, runs rough, skipping, etc. Live data shows Cylinder 3 miss fire.
Need to wait until the morning because I don't have the 14mm deep socket for our godforsaken spark plugs, which has to be the issue because the wires test good, the coil tested good, so spark plug is my next stop.
#6
Do you have a boost gauge to see what the new turbo is doing? A misfire above 3000 rpm could also be caused by too much boost. It’s an issue I had right after the replacement. I had to adjust the wastegate a little bit to dial it in. Just a thought if you can’t figure it out. When I put my foot in it, it bucked and misfired, and threw a cyl 3 misfire code. Was just simply pushing too much boost.
#7
This is at idle, not just 30MPH.
My guess is with the boost actually working now, the plug is just not able to cleanly fire with the added pressure.
Old wastegate was/is loose and sloppy. New one is firm as all hell.
Have real time data boost feedback from OBDII and will check tomorrow after I pull the plug and check it out.
My guess is with the boost actually working now, the plug is just not able to cleanly fire with the added pressure.
Old wastegate was/is loose and sloppy. New one is firm as all hell.
Have real time data boost feedback from OBDII and will check tomorrow after I pull the plug and check it out.
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#8
No issues as far as ordering it went. I placed the order on Saturday, they sent me a tracking number the same day, it is supposed to be here on Wednesday. They say that their JM40/JCW turbo will fit right on a Cooper S and will work with stock components, although to get the full benefit of its potential, they recommend a tune and a few minor mods. I’m doing some of the mods with the turbo, like the charge pipes and I already have a good intake. I will put on a hi-flow DP when I get a tune.... but who knows when (or if) I’ll actually ever get around to that, lol.
I’m going to wait and see how it does just with what I’m putting on it first.
Arric at JMTurbo Coopers was really prompt about returning emails and answering the questions that I had. So far a top notch experience.
#9
I just installed a JM40 on my ‘12, the the intake fits as is, with the spacer in place. Although the JCW compressor is 40mm the turbo inlet is the same size as the factory 37mm unit. The factory JCW turbo does have a larger inlet bore though.
#10
My cylinder 3 issue was a combination of plugs and coilpack.
All better now!
#11
yeah, that one is different I’m sure, lol. As far as I know, on the JM40 they still use the factory MCS turbo sized housing but with the 40mm compressor inside.
#12
I have been fighting this issue for a few months now!
My wife's completely stock 2012 R60 Countryman has the dreaded 2C57 code (charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low) that is driving me nuts!
I have done everything I can think of so far.
The car runs fine, but it throws the code every time you drive it. Usually it's a light acceleration under a load that sets the code.
Done so far:
New coils and NGK spark plugs (recently, about a month before this issue came up)
New silicone diaphragm in the valve cover (old one was not torn, but I put a new one in anyways)
New OEM diverter valve
New OEM pressure converter
New high pressure fuel pump replaced under extended warranty
Pulled the downpipe/converter off the turbo and can visually see that the wastegate closes when putting a hand vacuum pump on the wastegate actuator. Seems to make a good seal, and there is no play or movement in the linkage from what I can tell. Decided to adjust the linkage anyway since I was already there and it's so much work to get back to that point. Set the travel distance to about 12-13mm. It was a bit more before the adjustment.
With my vacuum gauge on the actuator, I get to about 10in hg at the point the wastegate starts to hit the seat and it's super tight at 15in.
I have checked all the pipes and hose connections, even pressurized the charge pipe with about 10psi from my air compressor onto an adapter to the hose that normally comes off the turbo. I can hear the air going into the intake, but nothing else is leaking from what I can tell.
Can't wait to sell this over engineered headache!
Any other suggestions are welcome!
My wife's completely stock 2012 R60 Countryman has the dreaded 2C57 code (charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low) that is driving me nuts!
I have done everything I can think of so far.
The car runs fine, but it throws the code every time you drive it. Usually it's a light acceleration under a load that sets the code.
Done so far:
New coils and NGK spark plugs (recently, about a month before this issue came up)
New silicone diaphragm in the valve cover (old one was not torn, but I put a new one in anyways)
New OEM diverter valve
New OEM pressure converter
New high pressure fuel pump replaced under extended warranty
Pulled the downpipe/converter off the turbo and can visually see that the wastegate closes when putting a hand vacuum pump on the wastegate actuator. Seems to make a good seal, and there is no play or movement in the linkage from what I can tell. Decided to adjust the linkage anyway since I was already there and it's so much work to get back to that point. Set the travel distance to about 12-13mm. It was a bit more before the adjustment.
With my vacuum gauge on the actuator, I get to about 10in hg at the point the wastegate starts to hit the seat and it's super tight at 15in.
I have checked all the pipes and hose connections, even pressurized the charge pipe with about 10psi from my air compressor onto an adapter to the hose that normally comes off the turbo. I can hear the air going into the intake, but nothing else is leaking from what I can tell.
Can't wait to sell this over engineered headache!
Any other suggestions are welcome!
#13
I have been fighting this issue for a few months now!
My wife's completely stock 2012 R60 Countryman has the dreaded 2C57 code (charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low) that is driving me nuts!
I have done everything I can think of so far.
The car runs fine, but it throws the code every time you drive it. Usually it's a light acceleration under a load that sets the code.
Done so far:
New coils and NGK spark plugs (recently, about a month before this issue came up)
New silicone diaphragm in the valve cover (old one was not torn, but I put a new one in anyways)
New OEM diverter valve
New OEM pressure converter
New high pressure fuel pump replaced under extended warranty
Pulled the downpipe/converter off the turbo and can visually see that the wastegate closes when putting a hand vacuum pump on the wastegate actuator. Seems to make a good seal, and there is no play or movement in the linkage from what I can tell. Decided to adjust the linkage anyway since I was already there and it's so much work to get back to that point. Set the travel distance to about 12-13mm. It was a bit more before the adjustment.
With my vacuum gauge on the actuator, I get to about 10in hg at the point the wastegate starts to hit the seat and it's super tight at 15in.
I have checked all the pipes and hose connections, even pressurized the charge pipe with about 10psi from my air compressor onto an adapter to the hose that normally comes off the turbo. I can hear the air going into the intake, but nothing else is leaking from what I can tell.
Can't wait to sell this over engineered headache!
Any other suggestions are welcome!
My wife's completely stock 2012 R60 Countryman has the dreaded 2C57 code (charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low) that is driving me nuts!
I have done everything I can think of so far.
The car runs fine, but it throws the code every time you drive it. Usually it's a light acceleration under a load that sets the code.
Done so far:
New coils and NGK spark plugs (recently, about a month before this issue came up)
New silicone diaphragm in the valve cover (old one was not torn, but I put a new one in anyways)
New OEM diverter valve
New OEM pressure converter
New high pressure fuel pump replaced under extended warranty
Pulled the downpipe/converter off the turbo and can visually see that the wastegate closes when putting a hand vacuum pump on the wastegate actuator. Seems to make a good seal, and there is no play or movement in the linkage from what I can tell. Decided to adjust the linkage anyway since I was already there and it's so much work to get back to that point. Set the travel distance to about 12-13mm. It was a bit more before the adjustment.
With my vacuum gauge on the actuator, I get to about 10in hg at the point the wastegate starts to hit the seat and it's super tight at 15in.
I have checked all the pipes and hose connections, even pressurized the charge pipe with about 10psi from my air compressor onto an adapter to the hose that normally comes off the turbo. I can hear the air going into the intake, but nothing else is leaking from what I can tell.
Can't wait to sell this over engineered headache!
Any other suggestions are welcome!
I had all the same issues, most of the same troubleshooting steps, and ended up just buying a new turbo.
All better now
#14
Man I don't want to hear that! I've been a professional technician most of my life and have never worked on anything this ridiculous to get to. It would probably be easier to just pull the motor out to replace the turbo...
I still don't see how it could be the turbo, the vacuum pump closes it perfectly fine (STUPID DESIGN BTW, why on earth would they choose a vacuum system to CLOSE a wastegate! Just one more over engineered reason to unload this car as soon as I get it fixed for her)
Thanks for your quick reply though I'll take all the help I can get at this point!
I still don't see how it could be the turbo, the vacuum pump closes it perfectly fine (STUPID DESIGN BTW, why on earth would they choose a vacuum system to CLOSE a wastegate! Just one more over engineered reason to unload this car as soon as I get it fixed for her)
Thanks for your quick reply though I'll take all the help I can get at this point!
#16
You went through the same process as I did. It is the wastegate, I would bet on it, unless your vacuum lines themselves are weak, or your vacuum pump is.
I had all the same issues, most of the same troubleshooting steps, and ended up just buying a new turbo.
All better now
I had all the same issues, most of the same troubleshooting steps, and ended up just buying a new turbo.
All better now
#17
Man I don't want to hear that! I've been a professional technician most of my life and have never worked on anything this ridiculous to get to. It would probably be easier to just pull the motor out to replace the turbo...
I still don't see how it could be the turbo, the vacuum pump closes it perfectly fine (STUPID DESIGN BTW, why on earth would they choose a vacuum system to CLOSE a wastegate! Just one more over engineered reason to unload this car as soon as I get it fixed for her)
Thanks for your quick reply though I'll take all the help I can get at this point!
I still don't see how it could be the turbo, the vacuum pump closes it perfectly fine (STUPID DESIGN BTW, why on earth would they choose a vacuum system to CLOSE a wastegate! Just one more over engineered reason to unload this car as soon as I get it fixed for her)
Thanks for your quick reply though I'll take all the help I can get at this point!
Another thing to try sanity-wise. When I was still trying to figure mine out, it went into limp-mode so often under a load just like you. But it usually happened on the freeway or highway on inclines. I kind of learned where it was likely to do it, and started manually (automatic trans) downshifting before the hill. If you drop a gear and raise the rpms a bit, the ECU expects to see a different boost level, which will change with the engine speed and load. Try it, it just might help you stay sane until it’s taken care of.
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
#18
Darksideblues42 you said you got the JMTC S42mm turbo, correct? How do you like it? And what boost psi are you running at? Do you have a tune?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I’m just curious. I’m quite happy with the JM40. It was making too much boost when I first installed it. I had to adjust the wastegate a bit to get it down to where the ECU wasn’t fighting it. I’m not sure how much, but when I put my foot in it, I hit the boost/fuel cut-off and went right into limp mode! Lol. So over 25 I think it is. Right now I’ve got it turned down so I’m maxing out at about 17.5 psi, and the car is much happier. But it’s just on the factory ECU settings. I’m getting a tune from MarioKart in a few weeks.
Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I’m just curious. I’m quite happy with the JM40. It was making too much boost when I first installed it. I had to adjust the wastegate a bit to get it down to where the ECU wasn’t fighting it. I’m not sure how much, but when I put my foot in it, I hit the boost/fuel cut-off and went right into limp mode! Lol. So over 25 I think it is. Right now I’ve got it turned down so I’m maxing out at about 17.5 psi, and the car is much happier. But it’s just on the factory ECU settings. I’m getting a tune from MarioKart in a few weeks.
#19
You mean like this? It would be easier to drop the freakin motor out the bottom than to do that again! This is seriously about the dumbest designed car I have ever worked on!
#20
Yeah, sort of like that.... sorry.... I’ll go sit in my corner again. ;-)
Well, that’s about all I’ve got. Sounds like you know what to look for. Just a thought, did you monitor or log the boost pressure when it was driving? I ask because I thought my wastegate looked like it was closing fine, but when I watched a boost gauge (just an app on my phone and $10 dongle from Amazon) I wasn’t hitting anywhere near the normal boost level, and as soon as it would hit about 6 psi it would start to head backs down, because it couldn’t build or hold enough pressure. Where it went into limp-mode it was expecting boost and getting none. It would barely stop pulling vacuum under those circumstances. Now in the same places and situations when I apply just slight increase in throttle, it jumps right up to 13 psi and just pulls like it never did. You might have done this already, but it may be another idea for trying to diagnose it. Just a thought, anyway good luck! Keep us informed on how it’s going.
Well, that’s about all I’ve got. Sounds like you know what to look for. Just a thought, did you monitor or log the boost pressure when it was driving? I ask because I thought my wastegate looked like it was closing fine, but when I watched a boost gauge (just an app on my phone and $10 dongle from Amazon) I wasn’t hitting anywhere near the normal boost level, and as soon as it would hit about 6 psi it would start to head backs down, because it couldn’t build or hold enough pressure. Where it went into limp-mode it was expecting boost and getting none. It would barely stop pulling vacuum under those circumstances. Now in the same places and situations when I apply just slight increase in throttle, it jumps right up to 13 psi and just pulls like it never did. You might have done this already, but it may be another idea for trying to diagnose it. Just a thought, anyway good luck! Keep us informed on how it’s going.
#21
There is the service position that will move the front radiator support bracket and almost everything else out almost 3” to make more room to work. It’s worh learning how to do, once you’ve done it, it’s very easy to do.
Another thing to try sanity-wise. When I was still trying to figure mine out, it went into limp-mode so often under a load just like you. But it usually happened on the freeway or highway on inclines. I kind of learned where it was likely to do it, and started manually (automatic trans) downshifting before the hill. If you drop a gear and raise the rpms a bit, the ECU expects to see a different boost level, which will change with the engine speed and load. Try it, it just might help you stay sane until it’s taken care of.
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
I can't do an ECU tune as the Commonwealth of Massachusetts has deemed them unlawful, and I could lose far more than my license if I did it.
Before my Bluetooth adapter gave up the ghost, I was sitting at 18 psi happily, and holding it for quite a wide range.
Ordered a new adapter, will log more data soon.
#22
Holy cow! You really did tear it down! I’ll bet it gave you all kinds of room though. I kinda wish I had done that, probably wouldn’t have taken as long with small turns at a time on the wrenches, lol. That probably made things easier.
Ok, so we are both pretty close right now to the same number. anything more and the car wasn’t happy. That’s a bummer about the tune. Mario just told me this morning in an answer about the pop and burbles that I asked, told me that it still only does it in sport, but will probably do it a bit more than now when turned on. As he put it, I’ll be able to be stealth around town and a public nuisance when I want to, lol.
But I totally see it from your side, and it’s not worth the risk. What a dumb law.
Ok, so we are both pretty close right now to the same number. anything more and the car wasn’t happy. That’s a bummer about the tune. Mario just told me this morning in an answer about the pop and burbles that I asked, told me that it still only does it in sport, but will probably do it a bit more than now when turned on. As he put it, I’ll be able to be stealth around town and a public nuisance when I want to, lol.
But I totally see it from your side, and it’s not worth the risk. What a dumb law.
#23
Holy cow! You really did tear it down! I’ll bet it gave you all kinds of room though. I kinda wish I had done that, probably wouldn’t have taken as long with small turns at a time on the wrenches, lol. That probably made things easier.
Ok, so we are both pretty close right now to the same number. anything more and the car wasn’t happy. That’s a bummer about the tune. Mario just told me this morning in an answer about the pop and burbles that I asked, told me that it still only does it in sport, but will probably do it a bit more than now when turned on. As he put it, I’ll be able to be stealth around town and a public nuisance when I want to, lol.
But I totally see it from your side, and it’s not worth the risk. What a dumb law.
Ok, so we are both pretty close right now to the same number. anything more and the car wasn’t happy. That’s a bummer about the tune. Mario just told me this morning in an answer about the pop and burbles that I asked, told me that it still only does it in sport, but will probably do it a bit more than now when turned on. As he put it, I’ll be able to be stealth around town and a public nuisance when I want to, lol.
But I totally see it from your side, and it’s not worth the risk. What a dumb law.
What was limiting me was a weak coil and old plugs. Swapped them, all was happy, going to play with the pre-load once I get a new OBDII adapter, unless someone can tell me how to see the boost values with the Schwaben scan tool.
#24
that’s funny, I’m not really thrilled with the little bit of lag I get between the car and the gauge using DashCmd. I was thinking of trying to see if I can just monitor it with my Schwaben as well!
#25
My only issue is that I’m getting a real brief quick whislte not when the DV dumps but when the wastegate is relieving pressure. it’s just a real short little tea kettle type whistle. At a certain lower rpm it does it I think I may have a small leak in my intake tube. Sounds (from inside the car) like that’s what it is coming from. That’s where it dumps to, so...... The factory replacement is not cheap. I’d rather by an aftermarket one, but the ones I’ve seen don’t have a spot for the pvc or egr or whatever that is that plugs into the smaller tube coming off of it, or for the electrical connector. But the one that’s on there is a little bit torn up on the end and at the hose clamp (thanks Seattle MINI!) So for now, I went and got some carb cleaner to find the leak, and some epoxy and fix-it tape....lol....so I’m cheap! Ha ha..... going for the temporary fix for now!