R60 '13 R60 Engine Knocking & Vibrating After Sparkplug Change
#1
'13 R60 Engine Knocking & Vibrating After Sparkplug Change
Hey all! I am relatively new to this forum, and I am hoping that you can help me. I have a '13 Countryman that I just changed the spark plugs on. When I did that, the car is now idling extremely rough (think--the engine is shaking) and knocking. The engine light comes on immediately upon startup. I replaced the spark plugs with the same NGK plugs (Click Here For Detailed Link). I also installed some new ignition coils thinking that may solve the problem, and it didn't.
I am in dire need of some help. Does anyone have any ideas I can try before I take it to a mechanic. Also, please have mercy on me--although I can figure out how to do most things repair related, I don't have a big background with cars. Thank you greatly for any assistance you can provide.
I am in dire need of some help. Does anyone have any ideas I can try before I take it to a mechanic. Also, please have mercy on me--although I can figure out how to do most things repair related, I don't have a big background with cars. Thank you greatly for any assistance you can provide.
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it is better if you have code reader (mini/bmw specific). if you dont have the reader you have use this method...while the car is running, unplug each coil one at a time and notice which one makes the engine shake more or even stall.
once you identify the faulty ones the you can swap coils to see if that fault moves with the coil or not. you can also swap spark plugs (I know you replaced them but process of elimination) and see if the fault follows.
be gentle installing and removing spark plugs. they shouldnt give you too much resistance. make sure the threads are clean and free of dirt.
once you identify the faulty ones the you can swap coils to see if that fault moves with the coil or not. you can also swap spark plugs (I know you replaced them but process of elimination) and see if the fault follows.
be gentle installing and removing spark plugs. they shouldnt give you too much resistance. make sure the threads are clean and free of dirt.
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JBarlow12 (06-25-2018)
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ke3ee--Thanks for the response. Is there a reason why the ones that I got (see the link in the original post) shouldn't work correctly? I'm not challenging you--I genuinely don't know. The ones that I got are listed as OEM parts as well. If there is a difference, I will certainly go pick up a set.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#10
I would suggest you do a search on this topic on the forum. Everything I find and read says NGK 95770's on stock engines and NGK 1422's on slightly modified in many threads on this forum. I have 2 CM's both slightly modified with tunes and I use NGLK 1422's in both.
I don't mean to be mean, rude or condisending .. but it truly sounds like your not experienced in auto work and these cars are not very forgiving. check the items below.
a: a bad plug
b: plugs are not gapped properly , this should have been checked before installation
c: you crossthreaded a plug when installing, there should be no resistance when threading the new plug in and if there was you should have stopped and checked it.
d: one of the coil packs isnt seated on the plug all the way. The coil packs should be all the way down touching the valve cover. Also check if the connector is all the way into the coil and locked.
I don't mean to be mean, rude or condisending .. but it truly sounds like your not experienced in auto work and these cars are not very forgiving. check the items below.
a: a bad plug
b: plugs are not gapped properly , this should have been checked before installation
c: you crossthreaded a plug when installing, there should be no resistance when threading the new plug in and if there was you should have stopped and checked it.
d: one of the coil packs isnt seated on the plug all the way. The coil packs should be all the way down touching the valve cover. Also check if the connector is all the way into the coil and locked.
The following users liked this post:
JBarlow12 (06-25-2018)
#11
ke3ee--You aren't being rude/condescending. I will freely admit that I am not experienced in auto work, although typically I am pretty handy and can figure most things out. I should/will do more research into things. I usually do a ton of reading before asking questions. Right now, I have two jobs that have been extremely busy, and research time has been difficult to come by. I appreciate your patience and knowledge.
a: I will switch it out to see if this makes a difference
b: I checked, and they seemed gapped properly
c: I hope it isn't this. There was some mild resistance installing the first plug
d: I have reseated the coil packs a few times. Never hurts to check again.
a: I will switch it out to see if this makes a difference
b: I checked, and they seemed gapped properly
c: I hope it isn't this. There was some mild resistance installing the first plug
d: I have reseated the coil packs a few times. Never hurts to check again.
Last edited by JBarlow12; 06-25-2018 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Additional information
#12
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I saw that you said you replaced the coils as well? If so, what did you use? I ask because I had a similar issue on ‘12. Replaced the plugs and coils, but did not buy OEM coils, and was misfiring badly after. It was the coils, re-purchased Delphi OEM coils and it cleared right up. You don’t have to buy the ones that say MINI on them, you can get the same part from the manufacturer. Match up the part #’s. MINI uses either Delphi or Bosch depending on when it was built.
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