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Not sure if there is a list of speakers that will fit our cars, but I'd like to add the Polk DB402 to the list for all four doors. Did them over the last weekend and let me say, what a huge HUGE difference they make.
While I did take a few photos of a few of the steps I didn't get to doing a step by step. My intentions were there but I got too wrapped up and forgot.
Be prepared to either use only 2 mounting holes or somehow find/fashion a bracket that will work. I've not seen any, by the way.
Also added a little Dynamat round the speakers and the matted deeper tone is definitely there.
The speaker wire for 3 of the 4 doors was blue with light brown for positive and blue with dark brown, maybe black, for negative. The driver door made my brain hurt...and honestly, I forgot what the colors were.
The only screws you have to remove are these two from every door handle
Everything else, push clips (not sure if that's what they're called, but you get my point)
Front Driver Door
The rears have the tweeter in the same area, unlike the fronts which are completely separate (if you have the "upgraded" HK system), and have a sort of signal separator/something like right next to it. I just spliced them into the wiring and they sound fine.
Comparison of speaker sizes.
Like i said, my intension were there, but I dropped the ball, but this should help anyone whose been wanting to do this. let me know if you have any questions while it's still fresh in my head.
Did you lose any volume with the change. Those Polks are 4 ohm and I think the originals are 2 ohm, not sure but it seems like all these BMW speakers are the same crap and they fool us with the HK name. I actually liked the sound in the 2011 CM better than in my 14 F56. An amp upgrade will probably work really well with those Polks.
Did you lose any volume with the change. Those Polks are 4 ohm and I think the originals are 2 ohm, not sure but it seems like all these BMW speakers are the same crap and they fool us with the HK name. I actually liked the sound in the 2011 CM better than in my 14 F56. An amp upgrade will probably work really well with those Polks.
I may have lost a touch, but honestly, I crank em and they just sound amazing. I'd like to get an amp but I don't think I want to mess with all that.
Yah, they're just paper cone speakers...nothing special about them.
Thanks for posting the info on the speaker replacements. You've inspired me to replace mine. Was planning on having a car stereo place make the swap but they're asking some pretty outrageous prices for the work. It's been a long time since I've done any car stereo work but after your posting and photos, I'm ready to give it a try. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting the info on the speaker replacements. You've inspired me to replace mine. Was planning on having a car stereo place make the swap but they're asking some pretty outrageous prices for the work. It's been a long time since I've done any car stereo work but after your posting and photos, I'm ready to give it a try. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad I could help!
I've done other stereo upgrades, in my past life, and feel where you're coming from. I had to remind myself that it's no different from then.
Ah, one thing I didn't mention, that just came to mind, are the wiring harnesses for the door (handle, compartment) LED lights and the puddle lights. They're attached to the doors with push clips and will take a little time getting them out but once they're out you can pull the door away completely. If you have a bucket or a small stool to put under the door panel to hold it that would help a lot.
Also, mind the door pull handle. It's edges are sharp and if you're wearing shorts like I was you'll end up getting cut a few times.
TIP: if you get nervous about how this will all go back, take photos before you re/move anything. (I wan't sure if I'd remember how to put the door opening mechanism back together so I snapped a quick photo to remind me)
Maybe you can take a couple of quick photos of the wiring harnesses and put them up so others can see what I'm gabbing on about.
Thank you for showing alternatives in regards to speakers in the R60. My question is, why coaxial? Do the tweeters you already have not work?
I have yet had the opportunity to go through my R60's sound system which consists of the base HU and HK speaker and amp upgrade. I do not like the fact that I cannot inter-grade my iPhone 7 without crappy adapters. Also, I am not sold on the HK system, I will be looking to remove all components and list them to re-home them to someone looking for a free HK set-up.
Thank you for showing alternatives in regards to speakers in the R60. My question is, why coaxial? Do the tweeters you already have not work?
I have yet had the opportunity to go through my R60's sound system which consists of the base HU and HK speaker and amp upgrade. I do not like the fact that I cannot inter-grade my iPhone 7 without crappy adapters. Also, I am not sold on the HK system, I will be looking to remove all components and list them to re-home them to someone looking for a free HK set-up.
Anyway, thank you again for options - PTM
I completely understand! The HK system, now that I hear the difference, is a complete waste of money. I purchased mine used and it came with it....and the tweeters work fine.
A couple reasons for the coaxial choice here:
1. Budget (Focal $400-$750 and Morel $425-580 per set (quick search on Crutchfield for 4" component speakers)) (Polk DB402 $140/2pair)
2. Mounting Depth (Polk 1 13/16 mounting depth is as probably as deep as you want to go, possibly 2" but you might be pushing it)
I would have liked to have gone component, but I'm not as much of an audiophile as I used to be and just wanted to upgrade, and I think I blew the stock speakers anyway. I also added a touch of Dynamat which really helps keep it the sound nice and tight.
As far as the bluetooth integration, I use a TaoTronics Bluetooth Receiver and it works great! And for the price, you can't beat it!
I completely understand! The HK system, now that I hear the difference, is a complete waste of money. I purchased mine used and it came with it....and the tweeters work fine.
A couple reasons for the coaxial choice here:
1. Budget (Focal $400-$750 and Morel $425-580 per set (quick search on Crutchfield for 4" component speakers)) (Polk DB402 $140/2pair)
2. Mounting Depth (Polk 1 13/16 mounting depth is as probably as deep as you want to go, possibly 2" but you might be pushing it)
I would have liked to have gone component, but I'm not as much of an audiophile as I used to be and just wanted to upgrade, and I think I blew the stock speakers anyway. I also added a touch of Dynamat which really helps keep it the sound nice and tight.
As far as the bluetooth integration, I use a TaoTronics Bluetooth Receiver and it works great! And for the price, you can't beat it!
Well, thank you for getting back to me. I understand wanting to upgrade and being a bit forced due to a blown speaker. No one likes that.
I just got done removing the crappy stock radio to see what all the fuss is over about it connecting to the HK amp. Just as I thought, its all high level and will work with any radio. I do not like the fact that my iPhone 7 will not work with the HU though, it only allows up to a iPhone 4S.
Getting an aftermarket radio in where the cd is will not be a problem, but I do not like you are left with delete blanks where the radio display will be. So disappointed in mini. Oh well, moving fwd. If you do any other audio mods let us know.
Just tried to remove the front door panel from my 2016 CM. I was able to disconnect all the door clips but was unable to actually remove the door panel. I think the problem is with the Torx screw in the door handle in the 2nd photo. My 2016 doesn't have the door handle that Frank has in his 2011 and I can't tell how the door is secured without it. I assume it is still attached somehow but there's nothing that I can see. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions.
With your Bavsound speaker upgrade are you getting any weird vibrations in the headliner or anywhere else. With mine there's a strange resonance/vibration in the headliner only at certain frequencies. And it's only on the driver's side, I'm trying to ignore it but it's there.
I completely understand! The HK system, now that I hear the difference, is a complete waste of money. I purchased mine used and it came with it....and the tweeters work fine.
A couple reasons for the coaxial choice here:
1. Budget (Focal $400-$750 and Morel $425-580 per set (quick search on Crutchfield for 4" component speakers)) (Polk DB402 $140/2pair)
2. Mounting Depth (Polk 1 13/16 mounting depth is as probably as deep as you want to go, possibly 2" but you might be pushing it)
I would have liked to have gone component, but I'm not as much of an audiophile as I used to be and just wanted to upgrade, and I think I blew the stock speakers anyway. I also added a touch of Dynamat which really helps keep it the sound nice and tight.
As far as the bluetooth integration, I use a TaoTronics Bluetooth Receiver and it works great! And for the price, you can't beat it!
Hi Frank, first of all I would like to thank you for your post; it inspired me to change my speakers too, I used to did some audio stuff on my first cars when I was younger so I decided to do it as well. I choose the FOCAL integration kit (https://www.focal-inside.com/mini/en...2013-2017-r60/), so far I has changed only the speakers and the subwoofer and soon I will add the amplifier as well. I would like to know if you can explain to me how to install the DYNAMAT on the panel doors, I already ordered and will have it next week.
Thanks for your help!
4647905[/url]]How are you liking the Focals? I just order a pair of the IC BMW 100s and the Audison under seat subs. Any other tips or advice from your journey?
Hi, quite impressive performance for the Focal’s but they as all, will saturate quick due to the missing amplifier. But the difference compared with the original ones is notable. If want to get the best from the speakers I added the Focal Impulse 4.320
OK! I'd like to provide an update for those adventuring down this rabbit hole. I have installed the IC BMW 100s in the front doors of my 2016 All 4 S and the Audison under-seat subs, all powered by the Focal Impulse 4.320. There were some issues out of the gate. Firstly the cabin sounds are WILD, the Mini pumps the engine sound into the cabin, which it now does so at FULL BLAST. So ,with my ECU tune the turbo is screaming "WHiiiiZZzzzZZZ" into my cabin at all times.
In addition to this, warning sounds like low gas and not wearing seatbelts are SOOO LOUD... Ear shattering levels. In contrast to this, the beeping from the back up cam is whisper quiet. I have read that these levels can all be adjusted in Bimmercode, but I haven't done this. Mainly, because of a larger issue is afoot.
The 4.320 sends the same signal levels to 4 speaker outputs. Which means the underseat subs are severely under powered and play the same level as your door speakers. This results in equal bass out the door speakers and muttered mids coming from under your seat.
THE SOLUTION. YouNEED to go with the Match BMW UP7 amp. It is a bit pricier than the Focal but you get A LOT more for that money. The Match provides 7 channels controlled with DSP software for you computer (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/t...ool/downloads/).
This DSP tool is EVERYTHING. It allows you to control all output levels to each speaker; sending more bass under the seats, more mid to your doors, and high end to your tweeters. If you are going to go through all of the trouble of the speaker install in these cars you MUST to go with this amp. Using this DSP software is the only way for your system to actually sound proper after installation.
The aftermarket world for these cars is confusing. Different manufacturers seem to make better parts for different components. For example the Focal speakers side by side with the Match speakers seem to be higher quality. The Focals have more robust magnets with magnesium/aluminum domes whereas the Match speakers feel very light and are made of silk and paper. I haven't listened to them side by side, but Focal IC 100s sound great.
So in my mind I thought if I'm going Focal on the speakers, I would go Focal on the amp too. But the reality is for door speakers the best option is Focal, for the under seat sub the best option in Audison, and for the amp you absolutely NEED the Match. For best functionality it's a bit of a hodgepodge of components.
I just got the BMW UP7 so before I go back down into the mine shaft and get this thing installed, I am also ordering the Focal BMW IS 100L speakers. These speakers as well as the Match C42BMW FRT.3 speakers will allow you to add tweeters WITHOUT the factory Harmon Kardon system.
You will need to purchase these parts: 51339804690, 51339804689, 51419806205, 51419806206. These are the Harmon Kardon tweeter housings fit for the window pillar. They are expensive, so try and find someone parting out an R60 in your area on Facebook market or check your local pull a part yard. I got both for $50 from a part out, would have cost over $200 for all 4 pieces if bought individually.
Both the Match and the Focal speakers come with a crossover that splits the signal sent to your 4" door speaker; sending the highs to the tweeter and the lows to the door. I figure if I am going back in there and adding DSP capabilities I might as well have tweeters.
I am confident the UP 7BMW will also provide enough bass by sending more lows to the Audison subs under the seats. However, the beauty if the Match amp is adding a sub to the trunk is really simple and you can control the levels.
To add a sub to the trunk the UP 7 BMW you will use the 7th unused channel. With the current set up you are using 6 channels; 4 for all doors front and rear and 2 under the seats, leaving you with one open 130w channel to add a trunk sub.
For this option DO NOT get one of the Match plug and play subs (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/subwoofers/) they sound super easy to install, and they are. However, these use the two under seat channels. If you don't want to go through the trouble of replacing the under seat subs, you can go with one of these, but for this single channel application they WILL NOT WORK.
For the single channel rear sub, you are already working with 130w so you only need a small mono channel amp to piggyback on that 130w and you are open to run wild with options for a single sub in the trunk. The bigger you go on the sub, just ensure you add appropriate power via the mono channel.
I would add something like a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1, providing 300w for a small enclosure with DSP adjustability via the Match amp. The Match amp will give you a wider frequency range on the bass too, so it will sound better if you don't go too wild on size and power to get the full low end spectrum of the UP 7BMW.
Any 300w mono amp on Facbook market is fine for this application, you are just looking to boost the power, all of the musicality is going to come from the Match amp, so no need to go too fancy here. Just giving the Fosgate as an example of what you want. (To be clear I have not done this yet, and I want to see what kind of bass I get from the Audisons first with the DSP, but I know some people are committed to the big bass lifestyle, so to them I recommend going this route.) As long as its a single sub you can run a bigger amp off of the Match and live your acrylic box and LED light dreams.
If I am not in love with the bass coming from the Audison subs after installing the Match I will likely go with the Fosgate Punch P3S or a similar custom enclosure which fits the load compartment in the trunk floor. The usable space in my 2016 All 4 S compartment is roughly 33" long, 18" wide, and 6.5" of depth so a custom enclosure would allow you to go a bit bigger that this Fosgate. Keep in mind if you go the full 6.5" depth of this compartment you will want something with a slanted top like the Fosgate P3S.
HOPE THIS HELPS! I will report back with my findings once the new parts are in. Stay strong! There is hope!
Thanks, this is all awesome information. There have been a few of us trying to get something to work for the R60s, from mild to wild. I've made custom speaker enclosures for the stock locations on my doors (non HK system) to hold bigger speakers, and have been stalling on finding the right amp / DSP / interface. LOL - and there's very few audio places willing to work on MINIs of any kind. Did you do all the work yourself?
? - where did you mount the amp / DSP controller. I'd love to find a location that isn't in the load compartment, but is still semi-accessible. With the amount of issues these cars have with water intrusion, I don't want to ruin a whole system because of a clogged drain hole or whatever.
Thanks for the info on this, I think the R60 was the first MINI with ability to have a nice sound system because of the room and number/ locations of the speakers. The door speaker tweeter mod is the way to go. The HK speakers on most BMW and MINI in tweeter usually are around the 100.00 mark each Vs ~50.00 for the countryman.
The H/K systems of the gen 2 MINI are nice but they all lack bass response like my Meridian Range Rover System I have in my RRS
Is the old info on the H/K system for the R60. Glad they still have that page up.
Yeah, the stock speakers are excellent at using a tiny amount of power to create the crappy sound that comes from them. Even going same size but aftermarket you need more power. If you have gone bigger, you 1000% need the UP BMW7. If you have a sub beyond the under seat boys, get a distribution block and run a second power line from the battery you don't need to go through the firewall again... Thank god
I live in Toronto and did the work myself, got it all hooked up and had no sound, took it to a local shop he looked my system over, swapped around a wire and it was up and running. Anyone in Toronto area I cannot recommend Number 1 Sound enough. The shop owner is the nicest man in the world, he spent 2 hours in the blazing heat in the middle of the summer going over my mangles mess of wires with a current tester... my panels all undone and the head unit rattling around y shifter... I thought he would laugh and tell me to **** off. But he was so dedicated to helping me and didn't charge me a dime. He is the one that told me about the UP BMW 7 and explained why one would completely change the sound system.
So I guess I am wiring the sub after all, so will report back with further instruction on that. Will more or less be the same as a second external amp set up.
Any questions I'm happy to give guidance! I know how overwhelming it seems, but now that I have a clear path and guidance from the master at Number 1 Sound it feels entirely manageable.
10-13-2016, 03:55 PM
