Post some pictures. I would like to see exactly where it is hot.

 

My dealer just e-mailed me and said that part number is only for European version, go figure. So I e-mailed him back for part number 514 87266 543. I rather have some protection for my bonnet.

 

Can you post photos of the burn marks so we can see just where?

Thanks,

Franny

 

Seems to be up to the individual dealership, mine covered it

 

I will today at lunch

 

3/12 Build
No stripes
No insulation

 

Just spoke to the head parts guy at my local dealer.....he said that at some point in 2010, MINI changed the composition of the scoop to address the warping issue.
So no worries about warping scoops anymore!!
He also told me that the stripes on the cars deteriorate/fade/peel because of natural elements....(aka) having the car sit in the sun.
This to me basically means it is inevitable, so this insulation that everyone is after might not be necessary.

Just my opinion.

Here's a link about the newer scoops
http://www.motoringfile.com/2010/01/...w-hood-scoops/

 

You might be right, but our stripes from the factory already had water spots that had etched through the top coat of the vinyl and couldn't be removed... The dealership replaced them when we had the insulator installed. The front stripes were quite a bit worse than the ones on the back. The dealership was nice enough to replace them too...

We then got a spray-on clear bra over the entire bonnet so the stripes will not see the elements again!

Franny

 

Got my hood insulatr yesterday from the dealer. Cost was $94.86. I took my first drive with the hood insulator installed. Without it, I would notice my water temp. go up really fast from 30 to 110-115 in a few minutes. With it, it is a nice slower increase and was at least 5 degrees cooler running at 105. And yes the hood was't hot after the drive (it was 10 miles).

 

In addition to the new R55/56 underhood insulation, here's the holes in the new scoop. It's a fake scoop no longer!

 

hmmm.

 

Okay I can add similar answer from my Dealer. They recieved a notice that only cars ordered with strips would have insulation.

 

Mine came with stripes but no insulation

MsBrit

 

Doesn't surprise me.

One issue that I brought up to the dealer is with out insulation the water in the spray washer tubes boils out on to the hood until its all gone.

 

Stripes and no insulation here. So, what is the correct part number?

 

Perhaps it's the color of the stripes? Seriously.

 

Mine came with stripes as well with no insulation. But the scoop does have holes in it.

 

Same here. Bought my own insulation. My scoop has the same holes pictured above.

 

I forwarded my MA this thread and he came through for me. Hood liner is waiting for me at the dealership ... no charge. Question is, does it cover the hood scoop? If it does, seems as though I should block the holes to prevent water coming in and staying in between the liner and hood. Any thoughts?

 

I have not noticed any extensive heat on the hood nor any stripe problems. I'm not going to pursue the insulation. Just does not seem worth the hassle to me. My R56 never had stripe problems either any my wife's car seem fine at 53,000 miles.

 

vrruumm, point taken.

I drove through a storm last night + garaged the car. It's stilll a little damp this morning but the area between the bonnet + insulation is as dry as usual. No puddles of water (which can drain either side, I suppose).

I don't think it's a problem but now you mention it I might be 'minded' to put strips of black plastic/insulating tape over the holes on the engine side for piece of mind. I'm not entirely convinced it's worth taking it off and doing, though...

But you're right; there's certainly no point in the holes and it'd be an unnecessary concern eliminated.

 

glad to hear, I had the same outcome.

 

I'm still in two minds with regards to pursuing the heat insulation. On one hand the installation of the NM Titanium heatshield for me had a major impact on the temp over the turbo. Before I could not touch that area of the bonnet, now it feels almost ice cold even after hard runs. Go a few inches above towards the scoop, however and the rest of the bonnet is roasting.
I have the same issue of the wiper jet 'bleed', which is annoying, causing water and mineral residue marks on the surface around the jets. So I know the insulation would reduce that, but I am also torn because I don't want to deal with blocking the air-flow through the scoop (however minimal) or cause water to get trapped between the insulation baffle and the bonnet.

One other think I have considered is the DDS intake scoop, which actually makes the bonnet scoop a functional thing again, but I am unsure if this would reduce the over-all bonnet temp enough to deal with the washer-jet bleed issue. Plus, I have heard anecdotally that the DDS Scoop won't fit over the JCW strut brace, but haven't been able to confirm that.

Anyone? Anyone, Bueller?

 

The Goodwood MINI has the MCS engine but without an air-scoop. So how necessary is it (and how many holes are open)?

(Here in the UK) I bought and fitted the underbonnet insulation for my R56 MCS and have no hot bonnet issues due to the turbo and no apparent water ingress or weeping washer jets. I figured that if it was good enough for the N18 MCS roadster/coupe then it couldn't harm my hard-top with exactly the same engine, bonnet and turbo position...

For me the underbonnet insulation mat solves all, including poached bird-mess , but your US washer jet seepage problems may stem significantly from the higher outside temperatures as well, it must be said.

 

As of now I think the only bar that works with the DDM race intake is the GT Spec bar.

The NM shield and insulation together work wonders. How ever since I am running the NM intake I cut a hole on the insulation to match the size of the scoop opening so air can still make is way to the filter. The only thing that gets hot after letting the car sit is the scoop itself, but I'm not worried about it. All the heat no has a place to vent out from

The composition of the scoop was change at some point in 2010 to prevent it from warping.