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Not much on the code above but I was told by a local shop that my abs control module is bad. I have the Brake, abs and triangle woth arrow lights on the dash. Apparently these modules are over 2k new. I was told to get one on ebay or 2nd hand. I found one at AllMag mini parts for $225. Ive seen on YouTube that after swapping it out it has to be programmed by dealer or by very specific scanner that has bidirectional features. Can anyone confirm that code is related to the abs module? Also, I recently changed all 4 abs speed wheel sensors to no avail. Thanks!
Have your tried clearing the code with a scan tool?
Have you ruled out low voltage issues. Does your battery hold 12.6V when engine is OFF and ~14V when engine is running?
Have you checked the ABS/DSC control module connector for corrosion or pin damage.
2010 Cooper S. 108k miles
battery is 12.08 off and around 14.40 on.
Foxwell elite NT510 scanner.
lights come back on immediately after car put in gear after clearing them.
Havent checked the abs module as far as corrosion. Dont want to take the car out of service just yet.
12.08 is a very low battery voltage. If your fully charged battery can't hold a higher voltage overnight, then the battery may be bad or the electrical system has a parasitic draw.
Battery is 4 years old now. Do you think that would give me those engine lights for traction control, abs and e brake? While the scanner gives me that 5DAB code?
Low system voltage in Mini Coopers can cause many different problems. Given the high price of a replacement ABS/DSC control module, it would be wise to rule out the other possibilities first.
Low system voltage in Mini Coopers can cause many different problems. Given the high price of a replacement ABS/DSC control module, it would be wise to rule out the other possibilities first.
Advanced auto tested my battery and said it was working fine and was 12.25 amps But the cranking was a bit low. Bought a higher AGM battery and just installed it. No change in the car. Still lights on dash.
Hello,
i went through this on our first MCS and the contacts were corroded on the ABS module. Ended up replacing the module and maybe the cable if I remember correctly.
Hello,
i went through this on our first MCS and the contacts were corroded on the ABS module. Ended up replacing the module and maybe the cable if I remember correctly.
Did you replace just the module portion or the entire unit, including the hydraulic motor? The module is about 1300 and the unit w hydraulic unit is 2700. Did a dealer do it, because I've read it had to be coded with the Vin. Thanks for the reply
Did you replace just the module portion or the entire unit, including the hydraulic motor? The module is about 1300 and the unit w hydraulic unit is 2700. Did a dealer do it, because I've read it had to be coded with the Vin. Thanks for the reply
I believe it was just the module, the hydraulic unit was fine. Yes, it was done at a dealer but not sure if it had to be coded to the car though
Coding is generally required when a control module is replaced. The Foxwell elite NT510 should have coding capability.
I bought the Foxwell elite but from what I have seen on various posters is that in order to program the module, you need a scanner/software they has bi-directional control, meaning the ability to to send codes from the device to the car. The elite foxwell does not have that ability from what I gather. One would need software called ISTP-A to program the module.
The 5DAB fault code seems to indicate a bad pump motor not a bad control module. If you have your pump motor professionally repaired, no programming or coding would be required. You would only need to use your Foxwell to calibrate the steering angle sensor and to bleed the hydraulic system.
But first use a multimeter to test whether fuse FL6 or FL8 is blown.
The 5DAB fault code seems to indicate a bad pump motor not a bad control module. If you have your pump motor professionally repaired, no programming or coding would be required. You would only need to use your Foxwell to calibrate the steering angle sensor and to bleed the hydraulic system.
But first use a multimeter to test whether fuse FL6 or FL8 is blown.
those 2 fuses inside look to be in tact. But sure how to test them with a meter due to them being a box.
is
is the round part the motor, correct? That can be taken apart and power run to it to see if it rotates?