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My 2011 coopers s. Started having random stall outs when driving. Read about the fuel pump relay. Removed fuse box panel and checked the relay. The trace line was burnt. Ordered and replaced relay and ran a jumper wire across burnt trace and placed ameverytbing back. Crank but still no start but will start with starter fluid. Pulled plug from top sending unit and no fuel. Took battery out of other car and put 12 volts from battery to car ground and power terminal on pump. Pump not firing up. But also when pump plug is disconnected, I placed 1 lead from voltmeter on ground and other lead on the power terminal in plug. When cranking, the voltage is all over the place. Any ideas? Thinking about replacing fuel pump first and if all else fails I guess buy another JBE.
The problem with the "voltage all over the place" is twofold... first, I'm betting your fuel pump is bad (seized) and drawing a lot of current. Second, I'm betting that the lead you're using is too small for the current (dropping lots of voltage before it gets to the pump).
If the pump simply doesn't start running with 12 volts applied, it's toast. I would recommend using a reasonably large(ish) cable to hook it up to a battery, but be careful because the current draw could be significant if it's seized. Normally a fuse takes care of that, but if you're just running a virtual "jumper cable", it could "get interesting".
The problem with the "voltage all over the place" is twofold... first, I'm betting your fuel pump is bad (seized) and drawing a lot of current. Second, I'm betting that the lead you're using is too small for the current (dropping lots of voltage before it gets to the pump).
If the pump simply doesn't start running with 12 volts applied, it's toast. I would recommend using a reasonably large(ish) cable to hook it up to a battery, but be careful because the current draw could be significant if it's seized. Normally a fuse takes care of that, but if you're just running a virtual "jumper cable", it could "get interesting".
When thr relay fried it also fried my board (pic attached). Ran a jumper wire across the burnt trace when I installed new relay. I am wondering if maybe solder joints are not proper because I can not hear the relay click when trying to prime or start the car. Thoughts?
Like I said previously - your pump is probably seized and drawing way too much current. You're only going to burn up more stuff if you don't replace it.
My diagnosis is based on what you wrote, of course... again, if you apply a solid 12 volts directly to the pump and it doesn't run, it's bad.
As habbyguy mentioned, the fuel pump is dead. This truth, however, does not rule out a second problem of a bad circuit board. Check whether the disconnected fuel pump connector gets a constant 12V when you crank the engine.
As habbyguy mentioned, the fuel pump is dead. This truth, however, does not rule out a second problem of a bad circuit board. Check whether the disconnected fuel pump connector gets a constant 12V when you crank the engine.
Well, to add to the mystery. This morning I wanted to double check everything first. I had my daughter who wanted to help me last night and might have gotten confused. When we unplugged the fuel pump wire and tested just the power from the plug (middle 2 wires?) there was a misunderstanding. I have an automated so when he saw the volts bouncing and I double checked this morning it was only reading mV. The question I have when running direct power from a spare battery to the pump to see if it runs on external source, am I running it off the middle 2 wires? I have looked for a schematic but I can't seem to find one. Sorry for the multiple questions just trying to get this thing running. My son has always wanted one of this and trying to get this running before his 16th birthday next month
Sorry to be a pain with a million questions. So I am just running the jumper wire from battery and connecting to the 2 corresponding terminals on the fuel pump correct? In theory if pump is good I should healer it run?
Now I am extremely confused. When I pull the k96 relay as listed in the above photo the pump starts buzzing immediately. No jumper wire needed. Put fuse back in and pump stops. Any ideas as why or the cause?
Just to add to my confusing mess. Key had been out of car for about 10 minutes with me trying to figure this out. Out of the blue, pump starts buzzing again. Pulled plug off and solid 12V out of pump. So I pulled the top hose off the sending unit thinking I would see fuel when I plugged pump back in but nothing. Thinking maybe when I soldered in new relay on circuit board and made the jumper wire for the burnt trace line something touching? If the plug is getting 12v and the pumpmis buzzing when plugged in is pump shot as well.
I am starting to think that I would be better off just buying another JBE and pump, installing them and seeing if that fixes issue.
* UPDATE *
I think I have found the issue. The way the pump was kicking on with the car off and the power relay removed got me thinking so I went and checked my amazon order. While I did order the correct fuel pump relay based on the part number, what I did not realize is that they sell both type NO and NC and I just happened order the NC. This makes sense of what the symptoms. I have order a NO relay and when it arrives I will do it all over again and see what happens.
