I've been working on my car recently, putting in a sub system. Amp is wired to battery and a sanded ground in the floor. There is a Line Output Converter wired to the left and right rear speakers. Remote turn on is wired to the rear cigarette lighter socket. Back panels and seat are all out currently, as is the trim around the fuse box in the passenger right side. One day I come out try turning on the car, it cranks, turns over, lasts for about 1.5 seconds and then went back to cranking. Got a jump and that did nothing. Next thought was fuel pump. Took it to the mini dealership in case the issue was the high pressure fuel pump that is still covered under an extended warranty for being consistently faulty. They told me it was the regular fuel pump and that they would be charging me $700 to replace the part. I said bollocks to that and replaced it with an (albeit salvaged) fuel pump. Both fuel pumps look fine, replaced the fuel pump, still wasn't working. Then I replaced the fuel filter. Still no dice. It was suggested I check the voltage coming out of the plug that goes to the fuel pump (At this point I've checked all connections 10 times over) the voltage didn't look right, so I replaced the fuel pump relay, at which point I realized I was just reading the meter wrong, and the correct voltage is indeed going to every pin on the fuel pump plug. I can also hear the fuel pump prime every time I try to start the car and then quit. So at this point I've replaced the Fuel pump, relays, fuel filter, and checked the voltage coming to the fuel pump. Everything seems to be in working order but the car still will not start. The one thing I haven't checked and don't really have an easy way to check is fuel pressure, but that can possibly be arranged if completely necessary. My question before we do that is, if fuel pressure is off, what part is bad? Did I just buy a second faulty fuel pump? How would I know for sure that either of the pumps is bad?

 

Did you disconnect the new stereo equipment to see if that is the issue?

 

It's all disconnected now, I was mostly just concerned I caused a short, but since I'm getting voltage at the plug, I'm pretty sure that's not the case, just added that info in in case I was missing something obvious

 

My quit problem is similar to the many I've read on your site. I had it towed to the Las Vegas Mini dealer. They "diagnosed" problem as a failed HPFP. Replaced it (that's another story). "Worked", for about 2 miles, quit again (so the HPFP WASN'T the problem!). Had it towed back to Mini, again. Current diagnosis is "faulty JBE". Found an R56 JBE online for a 2013 Clubman S model. Dealer tells me it needs to be "reprogrammed" but they "can't/were unable" to do it.
Questions:
1) Do JBE's have to be "programmed" uniquely for each Mini?
2) If so, why can't the dealer reprogram it? Or are they wanting to "sell" me THEIR JBE? Their quoted cost was ~$1200; the used one found online was $250.
3) Can ANYONE else reprogram a JBE?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

for the most part, the fuse box is plug and play EXCEPT if your car has options that the donor has doesn't, such as heated seats, sunroof, navi..etc. It will work but if the fuse place is empty, coding it won't change anything. Now, to code it, you need NCS expert and Winkfp to program it.