R56 What can Bimmercode do for an R56?
Bimmercode - “registered” a new battery on 2009 Mini
I am preparing to sell my 2009 Mini S. I purchased Bimmercode to run through a quick analysis of error codes— none of which were all that helpful— but more importantly to “register” a new battery purchased from CostCo.
As I replaced the battery myself, that software plus the required OBC was cheaper than going to the dealer for that one little task (unbelievably).
And I am hopeful that I may also be able to use Bimmercode and the OBC gadget on my “new-used” 2022 Mini S that I have already purchased
As I replaced the battery myself, that software plus the required OBC was cheaper than going to the dealer for that one little task (unbelievably).
And I am hopeful that I may also be able to use Bimmercode and the OBC gadget on my “new-used” 2022 Mini S that I have already purchased
Not sure how accurate/comprehensive this page is, just in case you haven’t checked it out already.
I personally used Bimmercode to code a few minor options on previously owned 2013 R56S: Disabled displayed speed correction, enabled open/close sun roof with press/hold on key remote, set lane change signal to 5 blinks. These are the ones I seem to remember.
With my current 2024 F56 JCW I used it to make couple of tweaks too: auto stop/start disabled by default, shorter and quieter audible confirmation of car lock/unlock.
I personally used Bimmercode to code a few minor options on previously owned 2013 R56S: Disabled displayed speed correction, enabled open/close sun roof with press/hold on key remote, set lane change signal to 5 blinks. These are the ones I seem to remember.
With my current 2024 F56 JCW I used it to make couple of tweaks too: auto stop/start disabled by default, shorter and quieter audible confirmation of car lock/unlock.
I coded the Mini 25W xenon retrofit headlights and coded out bulb warnings so I could use LEDs for things like the parking and license plate lights. That first one pretty much paid for itself versus the dealer.
Let's see...also set the side markers to blink, turned on open/close of windows and sunroof by holding the remote buttons, retrofitted and coded the self-dimming rear mirror. Probably some other stuff I'm forgetting.
Let's see...also set the side markers to blink, turned on open/close of windows and sunroof by holding the remote buttons, retrofitted and coded the self-dimming rear mirror. Probably some other stuff I'm forgetting.
Thanks!
I have a donor car with Xenon lights. What's involved in the retrofit? I know that as installed, they are self leveling using input from the suspension. I'm assuming that you don't have that feature.
Also, what's involved in the auto dimmer mirror retrofit? Is the wiring and plug already there?
I have a donor car with Xenon lights. What's involved in the retrofit? I know that as installed, they are self leveling using input from the suspension. I'm assuming that you don't have that feature.
Also, what's involved in the auto dimmer mirror retrofit? Is the wiring and plug already there?
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So these were specifically the 25W Xenon retrofit headlights that ECS sells (no self-leveling or washers). They drop right in physically and then you need to make a few coding changes. Retrofitting the original 35W Xenons is probably more work and I've never done that.
For the mirror this thread has a lot of details. The retrofit cable is no longer available but you can buy the terminals from ECS and just make your own wires to run down to the fusebox.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ispreloading=1
You really only need to run one wire for switched power, then the mirror works without coding. There's a second wire for a reverse signal, if you run that (and code it) then the mirror un-dims when you shift to reverse.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4628314
For the mirror this thread has a lot of details. The retrofit cable is no longer available but you can buy the terminals from ECS and just make your own wires to run down to the fusebox.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ispreloading=1
You really only need to run one wire for switched power, then the mirror works without coding. There's a second wire for a reverse signal, if you run that (and code it) then the mirror un-dims when you shift to reverse.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4628314
Thanks so much for the fast and comprehensive reply!
I did have Xenon in my R56. I now have Halogen in my R55.
I'm not sure how much difference I see. Do you see a big improvement?
I did have Xenon in my R56. I now have Halogen in my R55.
I'm not sure how much difference I see. Do you see a big improvement?
I did install the 25W Xenon retrofit as well on R56. In my personal experience the light output improved a lot compared to factory halogen. On top of that I really liked the look of Xenon projectors. That was before I discovered Bimmercode, so used NCS Expert for coding those.
Yep, factory halogens were so bad on these cars. Should have been Xenon stock. Also the factory halogen headlight in FL, TX, Cali also get the headlight oxidation glaze and it looks even worse. Seems the UV protection on those halogen lights were so thin.

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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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