My 2010 Cooper has been exhibiting an idling shudder of late and even threw a check engine light a while back that actually went away. I used Carly to pull the codes and it told me I had a misfire in cylinder 1 so I was just pulling the plugs and I found the “well” where plug 1 lives full of oil. Not sure if I caused this by being sloppy while adding oil or if something else is going on. Anyone got ideas?

 

My first guess would be cam cover gasket...

 

Thanks that’s what I’m assuming too. I have a kit on order. Taking the bus this week. Time to catch up on some audio books.

 

Please keep us posted on the outcome!

 

Replaced all seven valve cover gaskets two days ago and so far no issues. Carly shows no engine codes anymore. I feel so manly.

 

Cylinder one just started misfiring again today. Guess I have some work to do when I get home. Anyone have any ideas? I inspected the valve cover and didn’t see any cracks but I may have missed something.

 

What is the condition of the coil on that plug? What are the conditions of the plugs?

 

Coils and plugs are all brand new. I installed them last Friday when I replaced the valve cover gasket set.
I checked last night and the spark plug well for cylinder 1 is still clean and dry so the gaskets did the trick there. I’m just not sure what’s causing this new round of misfiring. Oil was a little low (didn’t add any last week) so I topped off.

 

I would pull the plug and see what it looks like. Could be a stuck injector?

 

I didn’t pull the plug yet but topping off the oil seems to have stopped the misfire. Not sure how that makes logical sense.

 

The r56 engine I assume the spark plugs are separate from the injectors?
since I replaced the valve cover, but where are the spark plugs?

 

Yes the plugs and injectors are separate.

 

The saga continues…

The intermittent misfiring had become less intermittent and pretty bad so I finally got around to replacing my injectors today. Not super hard or long but getting the new injectors to seat in the cylinders was a ***** of a time until I used my brain and lubed the o-rings with some oil. Derp 🥴

Anyway, she fired up and was choochin’ real good for about ten minutes. I’ll report back with an update soonish.

Thanks y’all for your input.

 

Well cylinder 1 is still misfiring. Correct me if I’m wrong but is it time to check compression? If so, can someone recommend a good compression tester that won’t break the bank?

cheers!

 

I cleaned the MAF last week to no effect.

Today I ran a compression test and all four cylinders are consistent at 225-240psi.

when I pulled the plugs I noted that the one in cylinder 1 has oil on it. Not a good sign.

I’ve seen other people mention replacing the PCV but I’m wondering if they mean just the valve next to cylinder 1 or more components. Pelican Parts doesn’t even refer to these using the term PCV.

Fouled plug from cylinder 1.

 

OP did you ever get to the bottom of this problem?

 

I replaced the PCV diaphragm last week and that didn't fix the issue, but then again, the plug is already all knackered from oil. Gonna throw a fresh plug in and see what happens. If it gets oily again I may have to bite the bullet and take her in to a shop, at least for diagnosis.
Any idea if my compression readings being so high is indicative of a problem?

 

Hello, did you get a professional diagnosis?
What are the results?

Personnally, going through the same issue, but maybe with a different cause here.
The cylinder 1's spark plug well is 1/3 full of oil...

 

This is the same thing as a "Valve Cover" gasket?

How simple is this to install? Can a methodical novice install this in an afternoon?

I too have the Misfire on 1 & 3 and replaced plugs and coil packs. So far, that has solved the error codes, but the outside starboard plug (#1?) well was full of oil.

 

I am curious if you resolved this?

 

First thing I would have done is move those new coils around to see if the misfire changed location. But it appears its an oil contamination issue.

How many miles on that engine?

 

Finally got fed up and took the car to the dealership for a professional diagnosis. They boroscoped the cylinder and saw streaks of oil on the walls. They suspect the valves and valve guides are at fault but recommended replacing the engine as they said it’s cheaper than tearing it apart to rebuild. Quoted me $5000 labor plus parts but I stopped them and took my car back. Called a small local shop. Guy said he could do a cylinder head rebuild for about $3000 total but that it’s still possible the piston rings also need replacement which would raise the price considerably. At this mileage (84755) the Blue Book on this car is about equal to the repair quote so I’m going to start looking for a new vehicle and see what I can get for trade in. Bummer. I liked this little red roller skate.

 

Dude...1st: I'm sorry, this is a shitty situation.

I'm still not understanding how the oil is getting past the valve cover gasket or past the plugs if the valve seals are bad....

A leak down test might have diagnosed this as well. Its easy if you have compressed air. Borescopes are cheap now. Can you give it a go to get another diagnosis?

Look at my sig. I had to change my engine as well...at 143k miles.

DONT do the head alone. $5000 for labor is highish. New engines used to be like $1500 but likely $3000 at this stage plus $1000 in labor. That's AN 8-10 HOUR JOB FOR A SEASONED MINI MECHANIC.

I'm pretty sure that JASPER doesnt sell rebuilt N14s. I ran into a Jasper rep once and he told me they didnt. Maybe that's changed.

I wouldnt spend $ on head. I would see what kinda deal you can get from dealer on new engine from factors and swap the entire thing out via someone independent.

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