Looking to check the timing chain for "stretch" or worn guides since I keep getting P0015. (I have no "death rattle".) I have the Schwaben timing chain pre-tensioning tool, which I understand is also designed to check the timing chain slack. My question is do I need to lock the cams and/or crank to use this Schwaben tool to check the timing chain slack? I certainly know that I don't want anything moving when I pull the tensioner to install the Schwaben tool to check the chain slack. Would it be wise to at least pull the spark plugs before removing the tensioner to prevent any possible compression roll-back in the engine? Oh, and I have also seen sources that say to use the aluminum washer from the tensioner with the tool, and other sources that say to NOT use the aluminum washer on the checking tool. Use the aluminum washer on the tool or not? Thanks!

 

The only way I know to do it is to pin the crank, the use the locking tools on the cam.

'The aren't that expensive though.

That said, P0015 kinda sounds like maybe your cam position sensor?

Dan

 

Thanks, Dan. Yeah, I have the locking tools. Used those when I replaced the head about 17k miles ago with a good used low-mileage head at 108k after an overheat. (My bad on the overheat, as I didn't tighten the cap enough after a coolant change. That sucked!) I do remember replacing the cam position sensors with new Bosch units at some point before the head and gasket job, but can't seem to find that in my file right now. My main concern is that I have never replaced the timing chain and associated parts, and I am now at 125k. I bought my MINI used in 2014 with 21k on the clock, and I doubt it was replaced before that point. Pelican Parts has a repair guide online that says to just remove the tensioner, install the checking tool, tighten the inner threaded bolt to such-and-such torque (like 5 inch-lbs), then measure the distance between points A and B on the tool to calculate chain stretch. No mention of locking anything or placing the engine in any particular "position". Hoping to find someone who has done this before, and can verify or dispute the Pelican Parts method. I will most likely get a pair of Bosch cam position sensors ordered, just in case they may (again?) be faulty. Thanks!

Chris

 

I bought and used one of these tools after I bought my Mini. I used it exactly like the Pelican guide suggested. I had no issues.

 

Interesting.

I was on the Pelican site but didn't see that procedure, just the normal timing check. Can you link it?

I understand the theory. The more the tool screws in to get to the specified torque value, the more it's stretched.
You would think that would work without locking it, but not sure.

That said, the torque spec on that tool is crazy low, like 0.6nm. It's hard to picture you could calculate from 0.0nm to 0.6nm accurately enough to then measure the distance accurately enough to determine if it's wrong, unless it's really stretched. I've found even a couple degrees out can make it not run well.
I still think if you have the tools, popping off the valve cover to check would be more accurate, and probably not much more time.

Finally, is there ever a bad time to change a mini timing belt? 😁
(I guess the answer to that is 5 minutes after it broke.)

You are up there in miles for sure. I just did mine because it felt like it was time, and it was 100k.

Good Luck!

Dan

 

Hey, Dan. Yes, they show checking the chain stretch, then go on to replacing the timing set. It's on an N14, so I assume it is quite similar for the N18. Not sure how to link it here. I just now ordered two new Bosch cam position sensors from ECS. And, yes, probably worth doing the timing set at 125k, for sure. I will see if I can find time this weekend to pull the valve cover and lock the cams and crank then check the chain stretch. You're right, not that difficult, just hoping the VC gasket seals again. It only has 17k miles since I replaced it, so maybe.....LOL.

Chris

 

Does the N18 flywheel "itself" have more than one possible location on it to secure it with a locking tool?

Russ
2011 Clubman S
~46K on it

 

Nope, only one hole.

The timing hole is the one in the "2-o'clock" position in this picture:

 

No, but also kinda.
The camshafts rotate at a 1:2 ratio to the crank, so the camshafts rotate twice for each single turn of the crankshaft, so under theory you could be 180 degrees out.

But this is easy to detect. There is writing on both of the camshafts, and when that is facing "up" you are in the correct position.

In fact I rotate the engine until the writing is getting close to facing up before I even attempt to insert the locking pin.

Cheers!

Dan

 

Dang, forgot about that part…