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R56 Engine knocking, mechanic saying engine is totaled!

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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #1  
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Engine knocking, mechanic saying engine is totaled!

Hey everyone! I was driving home yesterday when I noticed a knocking under my hood, that knocks faster when I hit the gas. I parked and it still knocks at idle. Fluid levels are good. To play it safe I had it towed to a local mechanic, who called today saying that it sounds like a totaled engine without looking at it. I looked around a lot and saw a lot of people associating a knock/click with the timing chain or its guides, so I wanted some second opinions! I'm waiting to hear back from my local Mini dealer since they would know better than my local mechanic. This video, though it isn't mine, is the identical sound I'm hearing.


Any help or advice would be appreciated!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:06 AM
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Have you scanned for codes? Check engine light on? It could really be anything. I would say a used engine for these cars is a gamble. Personally, I would fix what's in there, but you will need a good mechanic with access to a machine shop.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:09 AM
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No CEL, no codes, though I only heard the noise for at most a minute before I parked. If it really is a totaled engine I would have to weigh a used engine versus just buying a new car. But hoping its just the timing chain, though I've seen that can still cost me thousands.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:45 AM
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Check the serpentine belt and the waterpump pulley before committing to anything else.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:18 PM
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Even a good timing chain kit is only $300 (Detroit tuned cryo). Special tools maybe $100. Not saying it's the timing chain, but don't let that deter you from fixing it.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 06:50 AM
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Check all the hoses to and from your intake manifold. That sounds like a connection got pulled off or something. That repeated knocking noise sounds like the cam-driven frequency. Just my thoughts.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 07:33 AM
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I agree with giorgos. Check the serpentine belt and water pump pulley.

I also disagree that the dealer would know more than the local mechanic, not necessarily. Where in PA are you ?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 09:37 AM
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Sounds bad to me. I would not run it any longer just in case it is something really major. Hopefully no real damage has been done and it is something relatively simple like timing guides. Let us know what you find out. I am likely going to be doing that job myself sometime soon.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 05:51 AM
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That sounds a lot like my Mini sounded right before it put a rod through the block.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 08:00 AM
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rod bearing ?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 03:31 PM
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It could be a rod bearing if it does it all the time. If it is in sync with the revs..
 
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 09:19 AM
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Update! Thanks for all the answers. Went to a mechanic who worked for BMW Mini for 15 years. It ended up having to do with the friction wheel/tensioner and belts. Nothing to do with either the timing chain or engine! Thankfully much less expensive than what I had assumed and been told.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 10:08 AM
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Search for the mini r56 rattle of death. Is this the sound you are hearing?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunderclasp
Update! Thanks for all the answers. Went to a mechanic who worked for BMW Mini for 15 years. It ended up having to do with the friction wheel/tensioner and belts. Nothing to do with either the timing chain or engine! Thankfully much less expensive than what I had assumed and been told.
Perfect! Happy ending!
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 08:08 AM
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If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, the friction wheel is not that tough to replace. IIRC, you need to remove the front passenger wheel and cover, release tension on the belt, remover front upper bar above the radiator, remove the engine mount to drop and jack the engine a few inches up and down to reach the bolts. I know this sounds like a lot but only takes 30 minutes or so once you do it a few times. You may want to replace the water pump and crank pulley and seal while you are in there. There will not be a ton of space to work... after all it in called a "Mini." But, you will have access to many of the items on that side of the engine. Access to these tight areas is why garages charge so much to work on these cars. I think this is also why there is such a steep depreciation curve for Mini. I guess that is good for those who learn how easy it really is to work on them.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Lancaster
If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, the friction wheel is not that tough to replace. IIRC, you need to remove the front passenger wheel and cover, release tension on the belt, remover front upper bar above the radiator, remove the engine mount to drop and jack the engine a few inches up and down to reach the bolts. I know this sounds like a lot but only takes 30 minutes or so once you do it a few times. You may want to replace the water pump and crank pulley and seal while you are in there. There will not be a ton of space to work... after all it in called a "Mini." But, you will have access to many of the items on that side of the engine. Access to these tight areas is why garages charge so much to work on these cars. I think this is also why there is such a steep depreciation curve for Mini. I guess that is good for those who learn how easy it really is to work on them.
Be careful doing the "while you are there" tasks. The friction wheel begat the water pump begat the water transfer tube begat the thermostat housing begat the intake valve walnut blasting, timing chain/tensioners, valve cover. Ask me how I know. Not a bad thing but it does tend to snowball.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 11:26 AM
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^^ A thousand times this.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Issigonis_wept
^^ A thousand times this.
I can not disagree. While this is my son's car until he goes to college in the Fall... or whatever happens in the Fall... I tend to overdo maintenance on it. All of these in my opinion will need to be done eventually as they are wear and tear items.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 11:05 AM
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I should clarify: I am on the side of "Do it while you are in there!". I meant only to warn you of how many lovely new parts will be purchased. I am at the tail end of almost exactly this same process.

Because they are such a complete pain in the rear to work on, and have several well-known weaknesses, it really just makes sense to do it while you are in there. But the pain you feel in the rear may be coming from your wallet!

Good luck!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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I recognize that sound. I bet money there is a section of the serpentine belt that is missing a piece of the ribbing. It's knocking against the friction wheel and the water pump. Replace the serpentine belt and you're done.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 05:21 PM
  #21  
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I had a sound like that on my 13 mcs the tensioner was junk and you could see it moving up and down slightly. Which i know was stated before. Also i kno this is a different car but on a 09 chrysler sebring i owned before my mini i had a crazy loud knocking noise which my mechanic told me was my engine like urs did but it ended up being my alternator. it never set a code or anything. Then the inside of the alternator exploded after a few weeks since i couldnt afford a new engine or car. i replaced it and no noise and it ran for another 50k no issue. Figure id throw it out there.
 
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