My 2011 N18 blew a head gasket (I assume, no oil and water mixing, but combustion gases in cooing system, although I did not see evidence of head gasket blown) at 108k, and I decided to get a good used low-mile head (38k miles) instead of having mine rebuilt. Long story longer, the head I got turns out to be for a later model N18, and has a different drive on the end of the intake cam for the HPFP. Of course, I discovered this today, after the head is on the engine, torqued down, timing chain all installed, etc. Question for those who know, can I just swap the intake cam from my old head onto the later-model replacement head? I know I will have to replace the cam sprocket bolt again. And I have figured out a way to remove/reinstall the intake cam and the followers/springs for the Valvetronic eccentric without buying the expensive special tool to do so. Thanks in advance! And---Happy New Year! Chris

 

Iirc there was a thread on here about this. One of the more knowledgeable folks here did or attempted a conversion, and from what I gathered, it’s a lot of work, and coding. I think the ECU would need to be changed also, but I’m not sure, it’s been quite some time since I browsed the thread. It seems that it was more work and expense than it was worth. But search for it, it’s here somewhere

 

Was that to change to the newer HPFP, or change the intake cam over to match up to the HPFP that came with the car from the factory? Only looking to swap intake cams. Thanks!

 

This is why I need to swap intake cams. Bottom one (mounted in the head) is the newer style HPFP drive. The top one is my old cam, with the older style HPFP drive. I am assuming the cams are identical, with the exception of the HPFP drive. Sound correct?

 

That would be @Tigger2011 aka @Lou@Prototype-R. It was a discussion about 3 years ago involving my first engine swap, where the shop bought a 2013 long block for my 2011 car. The gist of it is that the camshaft, ECU and wiring harness are all different to accommodate the Bosch HPFP.

I don't see why you couldn't, but I think Lou said he tried putting a 2013 cam in a 2011 car (so opposite of what you're doing) or something to that effect and basically just ruined a whole engine. Don't remember what the exact cause was. Basically the question comes down to if there is something different about the two cams other than the HPFP interface.

 

Thanks, thebombardier! I have almost completed the install of the 2011 intake cam into the 2013 head. Just need to torque the cam caps and reinstall the follower springs. Then re-do the timing, replacing the TTY cam sprocket bolt again. I am certainly hoping the only difference in those intake cams is the HPFP interface. Wonder what ruined Lou's engine? I am hoping to have this thing fired up on Friday. It's been down for like 5 months now. Wish me luck!

 

Hi renchjeep,
You've already figured out at least one difference between the heads (cams). Another difference you may have also noted is the end plate on the drivers side that the HPFP and vacuum pump attaches to. The plate that the Bosch pump attaches to has a pass through from the lash adjuster oil rail to provide oil to the HPFP. The Continental pumps are sealed internally and need no oil. Without changing the end plates or plugging that hole the engine will start puking oil on startup. The builder on that motor didn't notice it until startup. What a mess! They tapped and plugged the hole. Later on I changed the end plate.

The final issue that I wasn't able to solve completely was the rocker issue. Both the rocker arms and intermediate rockers have a number stamped on them (1 thru 4). There are four different sizes of each. There used to be five sizes but the manufacturer for BMW now only makes four. These are sized at the factory once the journals for the intake cam plus valvetronic cam are machined, and the cams are installed. Changing out the intake cam will throw these measurements off. Unfortunately, BMW will not share the information on how to select the correct ones. Even the dealers do not have this information as they will only swap out an entire head. If the sizing is incorrect on even one you will get a transient rattle in the intake valve train that will result in accelerated wear of the intake cam lobes.

The correct complete head assemblies are out there. I just found one for a client for his build a couple of weeks ago. You never know you might get lucky and have no issues (fingers crossed). If you do though you may very well have to change out the head.

 

Thanks, Lou. Looks like I have some more figuring to do. I am a small-block Chevy guy, so this whole "machining and matching parts" is all new to me. LOL. I will look for that oiling hole and see that it is threaded and plugged. Thanks for that little tip! Now, as far as the location of that hole, where would I look? Can I assume it will be obvious when comparing the two endplates? I don't imagine the endplates can be changed once the head is mounted to the engine, or can they? Sorry for the possibly silly questions, and I do appreciate all the help you guys have provided to this point.

Chris

Edited: I do believe I have found the oil pass-through, and it appears to be an 8mm fine-threaded hole. Does that sound correct? If so, need to find a plug for that bugger. Now, on the intermediate rockers....I assume those are the ones that ride on the valvetronic eccentric and the intake cam. I can see numbers on 4 of the 8 as installed on each head, as they are apparently only stamped or numbered on one side. So far, all the ones that I can see have the number 02 on them on both heads. Do you think I am looking at the correct number stamping? Is that indeed how they are expressed, as a 02 number, or am I looking for a single number 2? Thanks again for helping my stumbling *** through this!

 

Glad to help. From memory yes it's a zero followed by the number. Some a very faint and hard to read but always there. Yes you can change the plate with the head on. That's how I changed mine. If you follow the intake lash adjusters all the way to the end you'll see the opening. Don't think it was originally tapped though. I've slept a few times since then so I may have just forgotten.

 

Awesome. Well, assuming I have "02" across the board, anyway. Are just the intermediate rockers marked this way, or are the rockers that actuate the valves also marked? And I will try to attach a couple pics of my two endplates. The first will be my original 2011 head, then the 2013 head. At the bottom of the 2013 pic, you will see the threaded hole that I think is the oil passage for the later HPFP.

 

The regular rocker arms are numbered as well. I think it was on the end with the metal clip that secures the rocker to the lash adjuster. For some reason I was thinking the hole was lower. Maybe not. When you pull the intake cam you can remove the lash adjuster to the far right and blow air in the hole to make sure.

 

The regular rockers are numbered as well. IIRC the number is on the end with the metal clip that secures the rocker to the lash adjuster. I thought the hole was lower than that one but maybe not. When you remove the intake cam you can remove the far right lash adjuster and blow low pressure air in the hole to make sure. Not straight shop air... unless you wanna launch the other lash adjuster

 

Oops. Double post. The app closed on the phone so I thought it didn't take the first reply.

 

I am not familiar with the term "lash adjuster". Don't see a metal clip, but will look. That hole is at the very bottom of the endplate casting, under the HPFP. And it definitely leads to the oil gallery. Also definitely not on the 2011 endplate. Thinking of putting the proper sized bolt in there, with an aluminum sealing washer and maybe some Teflon tape on the threads. Any other sealant you would recommend?

Thanks again, Lou. You have been a huge help!
Chris

 

I used a stat-o-seal washer with a backup washer. Permatex black silicone with a washer should do the trick as well. One end of the rocker arm sits on the valve stem and the other end sits on a lash adjuster. Oil pressure enters the side of the adjuster via the oil rail which pushes up the support piston. Since the roller is the fulcrum point this pressure closes the gap (lash) between the rocker arm and valve stem.
Performs the same function as a hydraulic lifter by keeping the valve clearance at zero so no adjustments are required.

 

Ok, got it. For the plug, I used an 8mm 1.75 pitch bolt, cut to the proper length, and a copper washer, plus Teflon tape on the threads. If that leaks, will explore other routes. My BMW tech buddy is coming over tonight to torque the cam caps, then we will re-position and re-tighten the springs for the valvetronic, re-do the timing chain and intake sprocket, and torque that with a new bolt. Might get it all back together and running tomorrow, so we might know soon if this is all gonna work out.

 

Sounds like a plan. Fingers crossed.

 

Thank you, sir. Mine are crossed! Quick question or two....or three: My ride has not been run in 4 or 5 months. Would you change the oil and filter before starting, or run it til warmed up, then change it? (No water in oil, or oil in water) Also, will the valvetronic actuator relearn it's stops by cycling the ignition 3 times? This is what my BMW tech buddy said. Thirdly, would you disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over with the starter to get oil pressure before starting, or just let 'er rip?

Thanks!
Chris

 

Hi Chris,
You're welcome. Personally I would change the oil before hand just in case any schmutz ended up in the oil pan. I don't have ISTA with me at the moment but as I recall the N18 checks valvetronic actuator travel at each power up. Three power cycles certainly wouldn't hurt it though. There is a fuse that will disable the fuel injectors. I'd pull the fuse and crank it a few times. Then light her off.
Lou

 

Cool. Got her all together, drained the oil, and flushed through with 1 1/2 qts of Mobil 1 0w40. Then, as I was filling the cooling system, another issue arose. Coolant started coming out of a small threaded hole in the head right below the exhaust vanos sensor. Right near where the oil dipstick tube mounts. I have no idea what would have went there on the 2013. Looks to be about 6mm, maybe pipe thread? Can I just find a plug that threads in there and plug that hole?

Chris

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4584

See #6 above. Is that where its coming from?

 

Yes, sir. That's it. My original 2011 head does not have it, though. Odd, as realoem says it is there 5/09-11/13. First pic is my 2011 head, second is the 2013. Looks like a regular m6x22 allen head bolt, maybe with a shoulder on it? Not pipe thread then? Might be able to come up with something. Add some teflon tape and install it? It's pretty close to the mounting bracket on the vanos solenoid. So no hex head will do.

 

I was looking at newtis instead of realoem for diagrams. Doh! My little local hardware store actually had an allen head M6x20 bolt, so got that. It threads in all the way. Now to put a dab of thread sealant on it, install it, fresh engine oil (already changed the filter, OEM), then cycle the key to re-learn valvetronic endpoints, disable fuel pump, crank to get oil pressure, then see what we have. Fingers crossed! Wish me luck!

 

I see what you mean. I thought the only head I had was an N14 but then I remembered I still had the ported head from my 2011 in the garage. Same as yours with no extra hole. Since one of the combustion chambers is trashed I kept it for a test piece.

 

Well, fired up just fine. No problems so far. Just trying to bleed the damn cooling system. Does it take forever for all the air to come out the bleeder, or is it just me?