Any reason you couldn't use one of these two refill the fluid trans from the drain plug with the yellow stand pipe?...assuming it will fit through the standpipe?

 

It would be a challenge. The issue is that – when the car's not running – the level in the sump is way above the standpipe. So you'd need to pump the fluid into the transmission above the standpipe and then keep it in there while starting the car.

I'm telling you guys: just buy a pressure filler kit and fill it from the bottom. It's like $50-80 bucks and it'll save you way more than that in headaches: it makes this job a cinch. See post #23 above.


Get the right tool: it's not worth the hassle to try to save a few bucks with some jury-rigged solution.

 

^This was my chosen method.

In a single day, I did 5 ATF drain-refill cycles (91% new ATF) with each followed by slowly shifting through all gears numerous times. After the fifth cycle, I leveled the ATF as per service manual instructions.

 

Gubi: "just buy a pressure filler kit and fill it from the bottom"

The only thing I would add to that is that I had the one above and, at some point, bought a similar one with a Schrader valve, so I can use an air pump where I can set the pressure, and it keeps it there. I set it to about 20 psi or so on the air pump, and it keeps it there, then stop and re-fill the fluid transfer pump as needed. Using the small pump fluid extractor, honestly, as Gubi alluded to, sounds like torture by comparison.

I believe this or similar is what I bought:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-motive-p...llon/1735~mtv/

Additionally: I already had the adapter that screws into the drain pan for this, but you would use that with the standpipe screwed in normally. Lastly, test your reflexes by swapping that out and putting the drain plug back when you are done pumping the fluid back in.

 

Right I forgot the fluid level is much above the standpipe when its not running...thanks. I filled it from the top last time so it wasn't an issue.

I use that giant syringe for Techron additions to the fuel tank and thought maybe I could use it to fill the trans too.

This is $60. Which fitting did you use with your kit?

 

To clarify the procedure, you shouldn't have to do that, no. Pump in a bit more fluid than you took out, then just close the valve on the fill tool. That holds it all in the pan. Then without removing the tool start the car and shift through the gears.

When you start the car the fluid level drops to the operating level. NOW remove the tool. Not too much will come out (basically just the extra amount you put in) and it'll drain to the level of the standpipe. Then let it warm up: as it does the fluid will expand and more will slowly dribble out. When the stuff dribbling out hits the target temperature the level is correct, put in the plug.

The transmission needs to be cold when you start for this to work.

 

ATF-105, the one that says VW/Mini. I think it's M10x1.0 but don't quote me on that.

 

Thanks Gubi.

 

I'm gonna use AISIN brand. Anyone used it?

 

This JWS-3309 compatible ATF is a lot less expensive.

 

Thx for the tip!

 

This is what I used for the past 30,000miles or so. I cycled through 3 changes, and the filter/strainer replaced, and magnets cleaned at about 60k, and drained and filled similarly more recently at 90k without issue. From what I saw, they make the transmission, so it seemed like a good bet and wasn't much more expensive than alternatives when I did it the first time. It's a bit more now, but hopefully, without starting an internet oil war, I feel more comfortable than using a generalized multi-ATF.

That said, many people have indicated that they use Valvoline ATF without issue, and I use Valvoline products for many other things without any concern as well. As a general note, with transmissions, it feels like the reality is that, barring doing anything stupid, it will fail when it feels like failing. It can be at its warranty/service life of around 60-100k, 200k, or 40miles. Regardless of what is used for ATF, as long as it meets the specs, I think it's still better than leaving it with dirty magnets, filter/strainer, and ATF in there for the "Lifetime" indicated for transmissions these days. Just seeing how covered the magnets were at 60ishK, I can't imagine not touching it for 100k or more miles, even if the fluid itself could do it.

 

I like that the manufacturer offers an oil that meets it's exact specifications. Overpriced perhaps but way cheaper than paying someone to do the job for me.

 

I drained the two drain plugs and got a little more than two quarts plus. 2 liters exactly



So I added two fresh quarts and realized I hadn't unscrewed the stand pipe...oops. I didn't want to just drain clean fluid from the pan, so I started the car, ran the trans through it's gears for a minute to move the new fluid through the trans.

Then I drained the pan and pulled the stand pipe and got almost 3 more quarts . This photo plus another 1/2 quart .



I only have two more quarts on hand which I don't think will be enough.

Does this make sense?..add three quarts and run it through the gears until the trans hits 95 degrees and then take the plug out and let it drain until it reaches the top of the stand pipe?

 

1) When leveling the ATF, you would normally run the engine with the drain plug removed while monitoring the rate of ATF spillage from the drain hole as the ATF temperature rises to the specified temperature.

2) Your transmission may have been overfilled with ATF by 1 quart before you started the procedure. Adding 2 liters now should just bring the ATF level to the proper level. However, you would normally add a bit more than 2 liters to level the ATF because you want to see ATF spillage from the drain hole slow to dribble full before reinstalling the drain plug.

 

I didn't fill the trans last time so I don't know how much was added. Sometimes the trans is really loud... Hence a flush at less than 30k miles.

I digress. Yes the drain plug needs to be out after the engine is running and the trans pump is pulling fluid from the pan.

Then pull the plug so it drains to the level of the standpipe and then stops draining actively at 95 to 113F fluid temp. Correct?

I'm gonna need to overfill with maybe 3 quarts and then start the motor, let the fluid cycle and then open the drain plug.

Here are some fun pics for you geeks.


The standpipe.

 

After going through 7 quarts of new fluid, Id say this flush needs to be done with at least 2 gallons, multiple times, to get decent looking fluid draining out.