When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Best easiest way to check flush refill Mini Cooper Aisin automatic transmission fluid
Minitobe put me on to this super easy method. I hadn't seen it posted anywhere else so I thought I might save you guys some serious grief.
DON'T waste your time using the fill port located between the thermostat and oil filter housing. DONT. That method is a nightmare. That bolt is so buried. This method is much easier.
You only need to remove the the bottom engine mount (two 16 mm bolts) and shift the engine forward with your knee as you lie under the car.
And best of all you can add fluid with engine running! No geyser of fluid! Ya just need a long flexible hose funnel.
See attached instructions.
Ratchet and torx55 socket only fits if you shift the motor forward
Just let the motor mount hang:
See plastic funnel:
Da funnel:
The clear section you can get at Walmart (it has a valve on it so you must make sure the valve is open). Walmart Trans And Oil Spout. The end fits nice and snug into the fill hole:
I'm confused. Is there not only one fill port on the top of the transmission? The yellow funnel pictured looks like the only location I am thinking about.
Its still my opinion that at least once you should drop the pan and clean it. There are magnets in it, and at least 1/2 quart more fluid in the pan after the plug and stand pipe are removed. If you want to change the filter screen, there is more fluid that drains from the trans when the filter is removed. The pan gasket is reusable.
On the two auto trans that I've owned, there is only one plug in the pan, not like the PDF. I'm assuming that the method remains the same, using the stand pipe behind the drain plug.
Its still my opinion that at least once you should drop the pan and clean it. There are magnets in it, and at least 1/2 quart more fluid in the pan after the plug and stand pipe are removed. If you want to change the filter screen, there is more fluid that drains from the trans when the filter is removed. The pan gasket is reusable.
On the two auto trans that I've owned, there is only one plug in the pan, not like the PDF. I'm assuming that the method remains the same, using the stand pipe behind the drain plug.
Thanks for posting this! I'm on my 5th every 10k miles 2.5 qt drain fill and after 6 you are at >95% new fluid anyway.
With the previous generation Cooper the Torx 55 bolt on top was easy to access. Not with the R56. It's blocked by the coolant hose coming out of the thermostat. I wasted so much time trying to access that bolt. And to add insult to injury, you can't add fluid to the top of the tranny when the engine is running.
I'm just trying to save everyone some serious grief. The instructions provided on Pelican Parts and Motoring Alliance are THE WORST way to do this job on the R56.
With the previous generation Cooper the Torx 55 bolt on top was easy to access. Not with the R56. It's blocked by the coolant hose coming out of the thermostat. I wasted so much time trying to access that bolt. And to add insult to injury, you can't add fluid to the top of the tranny when the engine is running.
I'm just trying to save everyone some serious grief. The instructions provided on Pelican Parts and Motoring Alliance are THE WORST way to do this job on the R56.
I tried the top bolt once, then I bought a fluid pump and fill from the bottom. This is a great alternative method for sure!
Great write up. I am changing the valve body on my dad's mini Cooper and this helped out alot. Bought that funnel tube and it works great. This is my first and only post as I don't own a mini Cooper but thought I'd share my experience as I was able to get the plug out without removing the motor mount and lowering the transmission. Thought if I'd share what I was able to do hopefully it will help someone else add this thread has helped me.
All I did was slip a ten millimeter ratcheting wrench around my torx bit head and was able to crank it loose without having to use a ratchet to get above the torx bit. I don't have pictures of it but have pictures of it sitting on a bench to give an idea of what I'm talking about.
I notice the OP's torx is longer than mine. So not quite sure if his would fit without interfering with the motor above. What I've done in those situations is knock out the bit from the chrome housing that the ratchet attaches in and cut it down shorter, and re-insert.
These forums are great for spreading experience and ideas and hopefully this may help someone someday. Didn't believe it worthy of a new thread, since I believe this thread explains everything well enough. Just wanted to share how I was able to get the plug off without lowering the transmission.
Hi
I've been trying to change the ATF on my R60 Countryman Cooper S but with no success so far.
I don't know if with the Countryman the fill port is even more difficult to reach than with the R56, but I couldn't open it.
I've had another idea though and I really hope that it is not that stupid that you all think I'm a complete idiot. Here it goes:
If I need to fill up the oil until it comes back out of the overflow of the drain plug, then why can't I use a bent pipe and a pump or a hose, insert it in such a way that it reaches over the overflow cylinder and pump until the oil level is right? Would that work or won't I get enough oil into transmission that way?
Thanks!
Phil
I dropped the pan, changed gasket and filter. Just about 4 quarts came out. I then filled through the drain hole, with a hand pump and put 4 quarts back in. With engine running.
Thanks very much for your answer. It sounds almost too easy to be true compared to the nightmare with the unreachable bolts and the oil fountain.
As soon as I find the time I'll try the ATF change and let you know how it went.
Thanks very much for your answer. It sounds almost too easy to be true compared to the nightmare with the unreachable bolts and the oil fountain.
As soon as I find the time I'll try the ATF change and let you know how it went.
The more I read, the more I got freaked out. I figure if I put in what came out, I am good to go. The drain hole was the best choice. I used a 90 degree white nylon elbow I had with a 10 milimeter thread on one end a 1/4" barb fitting on the other end. Worked perfect.
Hi
I've been trying to change the ATF on my R60 Countryman Cooper S but with no success so far.
I don't know if with the Countryman the fill port is even more difficult to reach than with the R56, but I couldn't open it.
I've had another idea though and I really hope that it is not that stupid that you all think I'm a complete idiot. Here it goes:
If I need to fill up the oil until it comes back out of the overflow of the drain plug, then why can't I use a bent pipe and a pump or a hose, insert it in such a way that it reaches over the overflow cylinder and pump until the oil level is right? Would that work or won't I get enough oil into transmission that way?
Thanks!
Phil
Understood. My only concern would be moving parts in the transmission if you try and fill while its running. But you dont need to fill with running engine.
Understood. My only concern would be moving parts in the transmission if you try and fill while its running. But you dont need to fill with running engine.
I filled up to the overflow neck, about 2 quarts, then I started engine and put in 2 more quarts, only took about a minute more. Runs great now.....
Just did this job. Fuggehtabout that fill bolt near the power steering motor: it's still really tough to get to, and even when you do it's a challenge to get any torque on it. When I finally did get a socket on it I literally cracked the socket trying to get it off. It was stuck fast on my car.
I ended up filling from the bottom using an ATF pressure filler. $80 and comes with the adapter you need. Makes this a super fast and easy job.
Measure what drains out, reinsert the little plastic riser tube, and then pump in a bit more than you took out using the pressure tool. Then shut the tool's fill valve, start the car, run it through the gears with your foot on the brake, and then unscrew the fill tool adapter from the transmission (the oil level drops while the car is running, so if you remove the fill tool before starting the car oil will pour out.)
Continue to let it idle. As the transmission warms up, oil will start to dribble out. Measure the temperature of the dripping oil with a thermometer and when it hits 95F the level is good and you're done: screw in the plug with a fresh crush washer.
10-04-2018, 05:41 AM
