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So I'm installing a downpipe courtesy of Mario Palza and I have a question for y'all regarding getting the stock downpipe out.
So I suppose I didn't wait for the turbo to cool down 100% before starting this project and the downpipe mounting studs unthreaded from the turbo exhaust outlet manifold. I should be able to just heat up the holes with a torch and thread the studs back in, correct? Then once it cools down it will contract and hold the studs in again?
Second, anyone have to take out the lower heat shielding (around the downpipe itself) to get the stock downpipe out? And does it come out the top or bottom?
The down pipe comes out easiest with the heat shielding out. The top shield comes out the top and the large shield comes out the bottom. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before doing this, you will short between the shield and alternator + terminal.
The studs will come right out of the nuts with a stud removal socket, happens more often than you would think. You might be able to find a stud socket at the local parts store if you don't have one.
Once the shields are out you will be able to get the downpipe out the bottom no problem.
I also recommend picking up some Liquid Wrench, spraying it on (when cool) and letting it soak in for a bit, as it will make removing the bolts much easier.
a ratcheting wrench helps a lot, too. One option, you can thread two of the nuts on a stud, tighten together, and use it like a bolt - then loosen when it's in place.
That and soaking it ahead of time and let sit. Those studs / bolts on the tubo side. On the older R56 these were longer , the newer part they are a little shorter which maskes it easier to loop the down pipe flange on from the bottom
I started removing my downpipe nuts and the studs came loose before the the nut. Since I didn't have spares laying around and needed the car the next morning, I put them back while replacements are on order and decided to take a little more time researching what others experienced removing these. Unfortunately all the videos and content I have so far found shows loosening the nuts then practically jump to the process under the car.
I'd like to avoid breaking a stud due to ignorance. From others experience, did you find the studs would came out fine through the downpipe without getting jammed on the unthreaded bit? Do I need to be careful to remove the bolt before the stud, saving the stud for after the pipe is off?
It looks to me that the downpipe would come out a lot easier with the studs out of the way, but I don't want to assume.
I will be replacing the studs and nuts when I install the new downpipe, so I will have extra nuts I can use to install the new studs after the pipe is in place but again knowing what to expect when they come out will tell me what I need to know for install.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by theSantorini; Sep 22, 2024 at 08:11 PM.
I started removing my downpipe bolts and the studs came loose before the the bolt. Since I didn't have spares laying around and needed the car the next morning, I put them back while replacements are on order and decided to take a little more time researching what others experienced removing these. Unfortunately all the videos and content I have so far found shows loosening the bolts then practically jump to the process under the car.
I'd like to avoid breaking a stud due to ignorance. From others experience, did you find the studs would came out fine through the downpipe without getting jammed on the unthreaded bit? Do I need to be careful to remove the bolt before the stud, saving the stud for after the pipe is off?
It looks to me that the downpipe would come out a lot easier with the studs out of the way, but I don't want to assume.
I will be replacing the studs and bolts when I install the new downpipe, so I will have extra bolts I can use to install the new studs after the pipe is in place but again knowing what to expect when they come out will tell me what I need to know for install.
Thanks in advance!
When you say "bolts", I am assuming you mean the "nuts" that thread onto the stud to hold the downpipe/catalytic converter in place, correct? If so, I have removed my downpipe many times due to going catless, new turbo, new cylinder head, etc. And yeah, the studs suck. Every time, the nut would not break loose and I would be taking the entire stud out all at once. It does not hurt the downpipe or threads in any way. The downpipe's holes are oversized slightly where the stud can move in and out freely. After the second time of removing those stupid things, I put ARP stainless bolts with anti-seize back in them. They come out nicely now and aren't all rusty, gross looking. And yes, if you take them out completely, the downpipe does come out easier lol. But don't break one. Extracting one would not be fun. Use a lot of WD or any other lubricant to loosen it up
When you say "bolts", I am assuming you mean the "nuts" that thread onto the stud to hold the downpipe/catalytic converter in place, correct? If so, I have removed my downpipe many times due to going catless, new turbo, new cylinder head, etc. And yeah, the studs suck. Every time, the nut would not break loose and I would be taking the entire stud out all at once. It does not hurt the downpipe or threads in any way. The downpipe's holes are oversized slightly where the stud can move in and out freely. After the second time of removing those stupid things, I put ARP stainless bolts with anti-seize back in them. They come out nicely now and aren't all rusty, gross looking. And yes, if you take them out completely, the downpipe does come out easier lol. But don't break one. Extracting one would not be fun. Use a lot of WD or any other lubricant to loosen it up
Yes, nuts and studs were what I meant to say.
Thank you for clarifying about the stud passing through without a problem.
