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P2065 - Fuel Level Sensor 'B' Circuit - some info in this NAM thread here with HPFP being the answer.
P0300 - Combustion Misfires Several Cylinders - Info here.
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected; Combustion miss, cylinder 2: Fuel injection deactivation; Combustion miss, cylinder 2: Deterioration in exhaust emissions - some info in this NAM thread here and some more info here with possible solutions.
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected - info here.
Just a note: I did see something were someone had the P2065 code along with misfires and when they replaced the plugs/wires both codes disappeared. Maybe start there and see if your issue is resolved. Good luck.
Thank you, I continued looking for answers and just ordered an hpfp from Portland mini today, should be here tomorrow and I'll install tomorrow evening. I changed the plugs 20k ago, if the hpfp isn't it I'll move onto those. I really think the hpfp is the problem. It's been rough idling after starting about five times now, it's not everyday, after the rough idle the last week and a half is when the check engine light came. Anyway, I'll let everyone know what happens after I install the hpfp. Thanks for the reply pelican parts.
I had a similar issue with p0300 p0302 p0304 and turned out to be dirty wire cables, I got a air compressor and blew into the wire cables when unplugged and into the sparkplug locations (with sparkplugs still in place) and this cleared my issue.
Thank you, I continued looking for answers and just ordered an hpfp from Portland mini today, should be here tomorrow and I'll install tomorrow evening. I changed the plugs 20k ago, if the hpfp isn't it I'll move onto those. I really think the hpfp is the problem. It's been rough idling after starting about five times now, it's not everyday, after the rough idle the last week and a half is when the check engine light came. Anyway, I'll let everyone know what happens after I install the hpfp. Thanks for the reply pelican parts.
You purchased the HPFP from the dealer? I hate to burst your bubble but ESC Tuning sells the same HPFP's for under $300!
I'm aware ecs had it for cheaper, I ordered it from the dealer because they had it to me the next day. I installed the hpfp last night, test drove it and it's running like it has a new hpfp in it! I have not cleared the fault codes though as the only place around that has an actual bmw tool wants $90 to do it. I'll go to oreillys this weekend to see if theirs will do it. The buzzing noise is still there so I'm having the exhaust looked at on the 14th. The shop I took it to on Wednesday let the car sit for seven hours before bringing it in so they were unable to recreate the noise even though I told them it only does it after its fully warmed up.
I'm aware ecs had it for cheaper, I ordered it from the dealer because they had it to me the next day. I installed the hpfp last night, test drove it and it's running like it has a new hpfp in it! I have not cleared the fault codes though as the only place around that has an actual bmw tool wants $90 to do it. I'll go to oreillys this weekend to see if theirs will do it. The buzzing noise is still there so I'm having the exhaust looked at on the 14th. The shop I took it to on Wednesday let the car sit for seven hours before bringing it in so they were unable to recreate the noise even though I told them it only does it after its fully warmed up.
I bought one of those cheap obd2 code checkers on ebay and it clears the codes. I already have done it on my mini a few times. The device cost me about $20 bucks shipped.
I'm aware ecs had it for cheaper, I ordered it from the dealer because they had it to me the next day. I installed the hpfp last night, test drove it and it's running like it has a new hpfp in it! I have not cleared the fault codes though as the only place around that has an actual bmw tool wants $90 to do it. I'll go to oreillys this weekend to see if theirs will do it. The buzzing noise is still there so I'm having the exhaust looked at on the 14th. The shop I took it to on Wednesday let the car sit for seven hours before bringing it in so they were unable to recreate the noise even though I told them it only does it after its fully warmed up.
The price keeps climbing, it's $125 more than when the article was created about a year ago. I put several items in my wish list and a week later all of the items prices increased quite a bit, wish list deleted!
ECS, i did use the diy you posted a link to. it was fairly easy, easier than doing the thermostat housing. there's still some stuff going on with my car, do you have a performance diverter valve like the one wmw has? I'm not too interested in an aftermarket piece.
ECS, i did use the diy you posted a link to. it was fairly easy, easier than doing the thermostat housing. there's still some stuff going on with my car, do you have a performance diverter valve like the one wmw has? I'm not too interested in an aftermarket piece.
They are here for Forge version here , other then that there is the newest version MINI divertier stock valve.
I replaced the diverter valve and the rattling is still there. While I was doing that, I noticed there is a fair amount of play in the waste gate actuator arm as well play where the arm connects to the waste gate part on the turbo. Is there a fix for this? It's all welded together from what I can tell so adjustments can't be made it looks like. I also checked all the hose clamps in the engine bay and some were very very slightly loos o I tightened those. Hopefully it helps.
I replaced the diverter valve and the rattling is still there. While I was doing that, I noticed there is a fair amount of play in the waste gate actuator arm as well play where the arm connects to the waste gate part on the turbo. Is there a fix for this? It's all welded together from what I can tell so adjustments can't be made it looks like. I also checked all the hose clamps in the engine bay and some were very very slightly loos o I tightened those. Hopefully it helps.
What do you mean by play on the waste-gate actuator arm? It's supposed to push in and out, this is how the waste gate actuator arm opens/closes the waste-gate. Rattling could be the heat shielding around the turbo, I have a screw missing that creates a rattling sound especially in first gear. At what RPM do you first hear the rattling sound?
I removed the heat shield and put back on, I'm not certain it is that. I had it looked at by a shop here and they said they think the noise is coming from the vacuum pump. So, I ordered one from you, ECS. I'm definitely living the MINI pay to play life these past two weeks.
Even if you find out it's not the vacuum pump, it's cheap insurance to prevent the older vacuum pumps from seizing up ruining your engine. From what I have read most have failed before 100,000 miles, keeping that oil topped off can help out as well. However leaking vacuum pumps (externally) are another matter.
It does sound like a kazoo. I check and change the oil religiously. I hope it is the vacuum pump, if it's not, I will have to pay more and have a shop dive into it. YAY!!! I've never been a fan of Hondas but all this has me looking at 02-04 civic si's. They are my second choice though after first gen cooper s's and 20th ae gtis.
It does sound like a kazoo. I check and change the oil religiously. I hope it is the vacuum pump, if it's not, I will have to pay more and have a shop dive into it. YAY!!! I've never been a fan of Hondas but all this has me looking at 02-04 civic si's. They are my second choice though after first gen cooper s's and 20th ae gtis.
A kazoo, I have heard that the pressure converter can make similar noises, even a quacking duck like sound. It's located under the intake manifold but don't know how that could cause misfires.
All the codes have been cleared and haven't returned, the vacuum pump has no electrical connections. If it were the pressure converter, I think a code would have shown back up by now. I'll know if the pump was the problem after it gets here and I install it.
All the codes have been cleared and haven't returned, the vacuum pump has no electrical connections. If it were the pressure converter, I think a code would have shown back up by now. I'll know if the pump was the problem after it gets here and I install it.
A code isn't always thrown if the sensor or part hasn't fallen out of spec yet, my Mini has been running very lean for over two years now and no codes. This is where Mini mechanics get stumped when there's clearly a problem but no codes thrown, that's when Mini opens a ticket with BMW to have a tech/engineer to have a look. Often the Mini is bought back by Mini and the customer given another Mini, this happens more than you think. I have heard of pressure converters going bad without throwing any sort of codes, things rarely go as planned and sometimes ECU's don't work as intended. I'm not saying your pressure converter is bad or defective, only that others have reported duck like quacking sounds from their pressure converters long before any codes are thrown.
A kazoo, I have heard that the pressure converter can make similar noises, even a quacking duck like sound. It's located under the intake manifold but don't know how that could cause misfires.
Yep.
The Pressure Converter will make the Kazoo noise , just wanted to make sure it was coming from the vaccum pump and not the Pressure Converter
Well, I replaced the vacuum pump last week. And...the noise is still there. I had thought it was the vacuum pump what with the grooves on the inside of the vacuum pump. I think now it may be the clutch and ,horrible decision on MINI's part, dual mass flywheel. It's fine driving in lower gears but under more load I can feel the clutch slipping, press the accelerator and revs climb but no acceleration. Guess I'll just drive more civil until I get the funds to replace the clutch and dmf with a single mass unit.
09-02-2015, 02:21 PM
