R56 How many have over 100k on original clutch?
How many have over 100k on original clutch?
I have 87k on mine and just curious. And if you were to have 150k++ share your technique. When shifting, I try to make sure my foot is off the gas until I have completed the shift.
I just replaced my flywheel and clutch components (at 53k) not because the clutch was slipping but because of the premature wear on my throwout bearing. My clutch could have lasted till 100k only because the previous owner obviously sucked at shifting on a 6-speed manual, not bad for an abused clutch. So I figure if someone improved their shifting habits you might not have to replace a clutch for at least 175-200k miles.
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I just replaced my flywheel and clutch components (at 53k) not because the clutch was slipping but because of the premature wear on my throwout bearing. My clutch could have lasted till 100k only because the previous owner obviously sucked at shifting on a 6-speed manual, not bad for an abused clutch. So I figure if someone improved their shifting habits you might not have to replace a clutch for at least 175-200k miles.
Been driving manuals since they were called "sticks". I'm doing something I had never done before when driving a manual. I take it out of gear and let the clutch out at a stop lite/sign, and keep my right foot on the brake. Put it in gear, engage the clutch, and go when it's time. Other than less wear on the T/O bearing, think about this. With the clutch disengaged and the trans in gear the clutch disc is stationary with the flywheel spinning. Should you not have the clutch totally disengaged and your foot on the brake you may be wearing the clutch disc without knowing it. BTW I've been driving "sticks" since 1955. 

The problem with DMF (dual mass flywheel) sometimes is because they're made of two pieces it can have play in it, I'm talking about end play to where the one half comes out just a little touching the clutch disk even when disengaged and out of gear. My DMF at idle was making a clunking noises, that's the two halfs separating even only if .0250" inch will cause lots of little hotspots.
What I should have done was visit Motoring Magic for a SMF!
I have been pretty much an auto trans guy, but have had a few manuals. Manual trans was a MUST when I was looking for my first MINI. If only for Heritage, ya know? The trick to making a clutch last is to use it as little as possible, and never keep your foot on the clutch pedal too long. I also downshift rarely. Only downshift if I am overtaking a slower driver. Or going up a hill. Even then, with my 11 MCS, I find it pretty hard to "lug" the engine, she is good down to 1700 rpm or so without lugging. Loving the turbo, as it means less downshifts on hills, therefore a longer clutch life. I live in a rather hilly and twisty area, and when going downhill, I will pop her into nuetral, and just coast. Does wonders for the fuel economy, and brake pads are WAY cheaper than clutch jobs!
My R53 had 160k with a few track days on the clutch. The throw-up bearing is the problem. It had a death rattle for about 600 miles. When I replaced it and the clutch disk, the disk still had probably 30 to 50k left on the surface. The fly wheel was in great shape.
Once you start to hear a chatter or rattle like a loose chain, replace the throw out ASAP or risk damaging the case and be stranded. Unlike an engine misfire they don't fix get any better on their own.
Once you start to hear a chatter or rattle like a loose chain, replace the throw out ASAP or risk damaging the case and be stranded. Unlike an engine misfire they don't fix get any better on their own.
I have been pretty much an auto trans guy, but have had a few manuals. Manual trans was a MUST when I was looking for my first MINI. If only for Heritage, ya know? The trick to making a clutch last is to use it as little as possible, and never keep your foot on the clutch pedal too long. I also downshift rarely. Only downshift if I am overtaking a slower driver. Or going up a hill. Even then, with my 11 MCS, I find it pretty hard to "lug" the engine, she is good down to 1700 rpm or so without lugging. Loving the turbo, as it means less downshifts on hills, therefore a longer clutch life. I live in a rather hilly and twisty area, and when going downhill, I will pop her into nuetral, and just coast. Does wonders for the fuel economy, and brake pads are WAY cheaper than clutch jobs!
My R53 had 160k with a few track days on the clutch. The throw-up bearing is the problem. It had a death rattle for about 600 miles. When I replaced it and the clutch disk, the disk still had probably 30 to 50k left on the surface. The fly wheel was in great shape.
Once you start to hear a chatter or rattle like a loose chain, replace the throw out ASAP or risk damaging the case and be stranded. Unlike an engine misfire they don't fix get any better on their own.
Once you start to hear a chatter or rattle like a loose chain, replace the throw out ASAP or risk damaging the case and be stranded. Unlike an engine misfire they don't fix get any better on their own.
100k on my 07 technically on the 2nd clutch but, I have had 3 in the car. I upgraded to an OS Giken and then the throw out bearing arm snapped about 7k miles later. So I went back to a stock one because I needed the car up and running and now I am about to put that clutch back in because this stock on is crapping out. I also beat the carp out of it a lot by driving like I stole it. Also on another note I think that the clutch itself is fine I just think that stupid waste of time dual mass flywheel is what is going because exactly the same as the first time.
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