I'm nearing 100k and I think the slew of problems is starting to head my way. I changed the water pump and the drive belt last weekend which went pretty well, but on to the next problem:

I think my throw out bearing is starting to go. It's making a light knocking sound when I don't have the clutch pressed. When the peddle is in, it goes away. Clutch is grabbing fine for now and the car drives normal. Anyone know how much this usually runs to get fixed (ballpark because I know everywhere is different). I might buy a clutch kit with it and just tell them to do everything.

On another note..this timing chain issue. I watched some videos on youtube.com to see if my engine is making any noises similar. The problem is, it seems like some people think every little noise the engine makes is the death rattle. I'll try to post a video when I start my car this morning, maybe someone here can help me identify if I have it or not. I don't think I do, but it sounds similar to some of the videos on start up. Will changing out the tensionor hurt the car even if it's not making the death rattle sound?

So far my issues with this car have been minimal, so I'm not really complaining. Just going to hurt the wallet if it all comes at once..

 

Our stories are the same, tomorrow my Mini dealer is removing the transmission because of a bad throwout bearing, my clutch is fine because it shifts like new and has excellent grip. I just can't stand the screeching noise made by the throwout bearing, I'll probably just go ahead and have them replace the clutch disc and pressure plate. Like with your MCS the noise from the throwout bearing goes away as long as the clutch pedal is pressed in.

Labor is costing me $1900 dollars not including parts, I only have 53k miles on it. These second gen MCS's have a dual mass flywheel that does make a clunking noise periodically at least for mine. It's been making that clunking noise for over a year only when idling, I can barely hear it. You have to be looking for it to notice. We'll see what the condition of my flywheel is tomorrow. I'll report back then.

Trust me when I say you'll know when you get the death rattle, it comes from the passenger side of the car and has a ratchet like rattle.

 

Glad to hear I'm not alone here. Although your story makes me feel a little better because it's not a screeching noise, it's the light clunking noise that you have to be listening to, so maybe it's normal and I'm just paranoid. I haven't heard any sort of screech.
Here is the sound the engine makes:


I don't normally remove the oil cap while running, just wanted to get the full sound.

 

The light clunking sound is likely the flywheel and not the TOB.

 

Flywheel as in...normal sound? Or flywheel as in..it may be f'd soon, get it fixed?

 

There is some normal noise that comes from the flywheel. A rattle kind of noise.

 

OK because I'm pretty sure that is what I'm hearing then. I wasn't used to the noise and it is pretty light. Thanks for the info.

 

Not, the flywheel. Just the VANOS actuator. Still normal.

 

Thanks for the info.

Any idea if that engine noise is normal?

 

Was your engine cold or at operating temperature? That sounds normal to me because these second gen Mini Cooper S R56's have a unique diesel sound at warmup, what causes it is the very high fuel pressure. It should go away some after you reach operating temperature.

What is the job of the VANOS actuator?

 

It was first start-up of the day so it was a 'cold-start'. It was about 50-55 degrees when I started it. I checked it again when I got to work and the sound was gone.

 

"It's absolutely normal to hear that diesel sound at warmup", it's because of the direct injection and high fuel pressure. A lot of fuel is needed to warm up an engine, after the engine is warmed up the fuel mixture is leaned out.

 

If you really want to put your mind at ease you could have the timing chain measured for slack. See if its with in tolerance. It never hurts to have it checked! Another thing to check is the tensioner..see if its leaking oil around it.. Good luck!

 

I already told you guys what it was. That exact sound is from the VANOS actuator. It runs on oil pressure. So when your oil is cold it makes that noise. It's normal.

 

Where is the VANOS actuator located?

 

It's on the head, I'll just ad a diagram. Im going to eat my words. I met to say the vacuum Pump is what makes that noise. When I typed its location earlier I realized what I said. The vacuum pump located on the right side of the head. It's round and metallic. The sound you hear is the tolerance where the pump slides into the end of the camshaft.

You can remove the vacuum pump and the noise goes away.


It's umber 4

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=11&fg=15

 

Why would you want to remove the pump? Isn't that what activates the wastegate on the turbo?

 

You can actually remove the pump entirely and use an electric replacement. It has been done, I advise against it. But yes when you remove the vacuum line the noise should go away.

 

Well Zippy, that would be the logical thing to do. I'll take it in should I continue my paranoia with this car .

 

I called the SA at the local dealer. There is a recall for the tensioner that I wasn't notified about. That and the heatshield. I'll have them check the chain then since they are changing out the tensioner anyway. Might as well have them check the clutch/flywheel noise as well.

Thanks for all the info guys. it's appreciated.

 

I think your making the right call here. Having them check the timing chain to see if its with in specs is something I would do. Specially if you are still running an out of date tensioner. My whole reason behind this is if there is one thing that can cause a major failure it would be the timing chain and tensioner. And major failures cost $$$. Good luck!

 

Owning a Mini everyone should be paranoia to a point, you hear a noise don't ignore it. There's more than one thing that with kill your engine, vacuum pump being one of them if it seizes.

 

So I definitely have the rattle. It rattled until the car warmed up a bit then it went away. It wasn't the knocking sound in the video above, so SystemLord, you are correct and can certainly tell the difference. Babied the hell out of it on the drive to work and will continue to do so. It only seems to do it once in a while. It's not an every day thing. I'm just glad it goes in the shop Monday.

So since the tensioner is on recall, and I wasn't notified of it being a recall until I called them to ask, I'm wondering what's going to happen if they measure the chain and say it's no good. I don't think I should be responsible 100% due to a faulty part. Especially when I check oil every day before I head out.

 

Chances are if you're already hearing the rattle your timing chain is already worn, even if the dealer only installs a new tensioner it will only be a matter of time before the rattle returns.

My dealer just called me and said that for just the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and flywheel will run me $1800 dollars! That means it totals = $3600, I could almost buy a new transmission. I told them ESC Tuning has the flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing for $1125. They said they would get back to me.

I got them to come down to $1287, that's $513 saved!

 

thus why you use an independent shop..dealers will scam the crap out of you