R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (R56) hatchback discussion.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #26  
Minishirk's Avatar
Minishirk
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From: N.E. PA
That is what I normally do, unless it's warranty or recall work. We are lucky enough to have a few shops that specialize in german cars in our area.
 
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #27  
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Systemlord
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by BNB
thus why you use an independent shop..dealers will scam the crap out of you
The $1800 the dealer is quoting me is only for the flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate. The flywheel has hot spots on it, typical. My AAA insurance is covering the labor $1900 and the throwout bearing do to the accident. The dealer was going to charge me $1400 for just the flywheel and $400 for the clutch disk and pressure plate. ESC Tuning offers the OEM clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing) for $290 and the flywheel for $835, that's $1125 versus $1800!

I haggled with the dealer to bring it down to $1287 down from $1800, never take the first quote the dealer gives you because if you tell them how much money you have spent at their facility they will work with you. The SA at my Mini dealer aren't very intelligent and lack that bond one can make after repeated business, I guess their personality is pure business with little to no character, you know like robots. Hey though if their willing to work with me I guess that's alright.
 

Last edited by Systemlord; May 6, 2014 at 11:10 AM.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:57 PM
  #28  
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as far as the death rattle aspect- changing the tensioner out is an honest 25min job. I'd pull it out and verify that its still springy (mine was the outdated style plus it was bound up). That and the chain stretch gauge can be bought off of amazon pretty cheaply. Easy piece of mind, $60ish in parts and tools (tensioner+gauge+27mm socket+t25? torx)

Ps, its a MCS right? I think reg MC are in the clear.
 
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Old May 11, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #29  
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Systemlord
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by merclurker
as far as the death rattle aspect- changing the tensioner out is an honest 25min job. I'd pull it out and verify that its still springy (mine was the outdated style plus it was bound up). That and the chain stretch gauge can be bought off of amazon pretty cheaply. Easy piece of mind, $60ish in parts and tools (tensioner+gauge+27mm socket+t25? torx)

Ps, its a MCS right? I think reg MC are in the clear.
The fact that you tensioner is springy doesn't mean it will operate properly when it reaches a few hundred degrees! Just remember if you take it to the dealer after installing a new updated tensioner they will refuse the campaign fix when they see the updated tensioner, they will assume that it was already fixed. If the dealer sees the outdated tensioner they will be more inclined to help you get it fixed by Mini.
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #30  
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Minishirk
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I just got mine back from the dealer yesterday. They said I already had the updated tensioner (I bought it in 2012 so maybe the previous owner had it done). The dealer didn't even check the chain at all.

They checked over my car though and found the front crank seal is leaking which I knew. They also said a new belt tensioner/belt/and friction wheel is needed because they are covered in oil. Quoted me 3k to do all of that. Seems outrageous to me. They tried to tell me I needed a water pump too even though that was replaced 2 friggin weeks ago. Anyone do this replace the belt tensioner/friction wheel? Seems fairly simple.

Ready to dump this f'n thing with this chain though. I was told if the chain rattles, it's now out of pocket instead of being covered under the recall/campaign.
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #31  
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Systemlord
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by Minishirk
I just got mine back from the dealer yesterday. They said I already had the updated tensioner (I bought it in 2012 so maybe the previous owner had it done). The dealer didn't even check the chain at all.

They checked over my car though and found the front crank seal is leaking which I knew. They also said a new belt tensioner/belt/and friction wheel is needed because they are covered in oil. Quoted me 3k to do all of that. Seems outrageous to me. They tried to tell me I needed a water pump too even though that was replaced 2 friggin weeks ago. Anyone do this replace the belt tensioner/friction wheel? Seems fairly simple.

Ready to dump this f'n thing with this chain though. I was told if the chain rattles, it's now out of pocket instead of being covered under the recall/campaign.
A water pump job is under $1000 and that includes the removal of the serpentine belt and brand new wheel on the pump. If you don't have an extended warranty stay away from the dealer, their labor rates are ridiculous! They overestimate how long the job takes to finish.
 
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Old May 13, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #32  
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Minishirk
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Your not kidding. 3k for a belt tensioner, friction wheel/tensioner, belt, brake pads?!?! Nope..

I did the water pump/pulley on my own. I knew about the crank seal leak and should have taken care of it then, but never doing one before, I chickened out with the job. I was concerned with not being able to get the seal out/back in and didn't want to mess up anything with the timing.

Maybe I'll try again this weekend, and clean everything up real good. It is kind of messy from the water pump leak/oil leak :(.
 

Last edited by Minishirk; May 13, 2014 at 11:14 AM. Reason: too many words..
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Old May 14, 2014 | 08:58 AM
  #33  
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Minishirk
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Had to call Mini of USA today because I definitely have the rattle. It doesn't sound good. Since the previous owner already put in the newest tensioner, they won't do any more recall work. Mini is seeing if there is anything they can do to help. Dealer quoted me 2,500 for parts and labor which seems excessive even for a dealer.

Anyone else get a different quote?
 
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