R56 Avoid first production year R56?
Avoid first production year R56?
I could have sworn I'd seen at least a few threads on this in the past, and couldn't find anything via a search, but wanted to get your thoughts.
Were there issues that were specific to the first production year of the R56 to the point that they might be something to avoid? From what I recall, they're pretty much the same as the 08-up years and anything really dire should be covered by recalls, but wanted to check.
Were there issues that were specific to the first production year of the R56 to the point that they might be something to avoid? From what I recall, they're pretty much the same as the 08-up years and anything really dire should be covered by recalls, but wanted to check.
Last edited by supark; Nov 3, 2013 at 06:59 AM.
I could have sworn I'd seen at least a few threads on this in the past, and couldn't find anything via a search, but wanted to get your thoughts.
Were there issues that were specific to the first production year of the R56 to the point that they might be something to avoid? From what I recall, they're pretty much the same as the 08-up years and anything really dire should be covered by recalls, but wanted to check.
Were there issues that were specific to the first production year of the R56 to the point that they might be something to avoid? From what I recall, they're pretty much the same as the 08-up years and anything really dire should be covered by recalls, but wanted to check.
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I have an 07 MINI Cooper S, and to be honest, I don't believe there are issues specific to the first year production model that may not present in the following years. It seems for the most part, that the issues I have experienced with my 07 so far, are issues that even people with 2010's are experiencing. I researched the R56 well before buying, and when I found an 07 that I loved, I didn't hesitate to purchase because it was a "first year" model.
I have an 07 MINI Cooper S, and to be honest, I don't believe there are issues specific to the first year production model that may not present in the following years. It seems for the most part, that the issues I have experienced with my 07 so far, are issues that even people with 2010's are experiencing. I researched the R56 well before buying, and when I found an 07 that I loved, I didn't hesitate to purchase because it was a "first year" model.
Nope not confused. I just had an anxiety spike and was reaching for the xanax bottle.
I had just bought my '07 about a week before that and was afraid I had missed something important/catastrophic. I settled down somewhat after more research and remembered I had bought it from my baby sister(original owner) and have all the maintenance records for it. 
I am taking it in next week for the timing chain and turbo oil line heat shield, but other than the chain clattering a little on a cold start, I have been tickled to death with the car.
I had just bought my '07 about a week before that and was afraid I had missed something important/catastrophic. I settled down somewhat after more research and remembered I had bought it from my baby sister(original owner) and have all the maintenance records for it. I am taking it in next week for the timing chain and turbo oil line heat shield, but other than the chain clattering a little on a cold start, I have been tickled to death with the car.
Nope not confused. I just had an anxiety spike and was reaching for the xanax bottle.
I had just bought my '07 about a week before that and was afraid I had missed something important/catastrophic. I settled down somewhat after more research and remembered I had bought it from my baby sister(original owner) and have all the maintenance records for it. 
I am taking it in next week for the timing chain and turbo oil line heat shield, but other than the chain clattering a little on a cold start, I have been tickled to death with the car.
I had just bought my '07 about a week before that and was afraid I had missed something important/catastrophic. I settled down somewhat after more research and remembered I had bought it from my baby sister(original owner) and have all the maintenance records for it. I am taking it in next week for the timing chain and turbo oil line heat shield, but other than the chain clattering a little on a cold start, I have been tickled to death with the car.
when i came home yesterday i parked, turned the car off went upstairs.. came down with my dog to take her outside and the cars fan was on for a good minute, anybody know why it was doing that?
yeah i hear the claterring when i start it up sometimes too.. what is that? should i be worried.
when i came home yesterday i parked, turned the car off went upstairs.. came down with my dog to take her outside and the cars fan was on for a good minute, anybody know why it was doing that?
when i came home yesterday i parked, turned the car off went upstairs.. came down with my dog to take her outside and the cars fan was on for a good minute, anybody know why it was doing that?
As for the fan, I'm new to the Mini myself and can't help you with that.
If your car is 2007-2010 there is a service campaign to check the cam chain and tensioner and replace as needed. If I'm not mistaken, I believe it's specific to the "S". If it's clattering on a cold start it's probably got to do with the timing chain.
As for the fan, I'm new to the Mini myself and can't help you with that.
As for the fan, I'm new to the Mini myself and can't help you with that.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...from-mini.html
Personal experience and advice from dealer techs/aftermarket tuning shops.
Timing chain failure (intake leak codes, rattle)
Cause: BMW’s stupid oil change recommendations and a previous vehicle owner who didn’t check her oil between those stupid oil change recommendations.
Solution: Change Oil every 5-6K miles and check often.
Turbo Failure at 30-60K miles.
Cause: Heat soak coming up from the cat after a quick shutdown and still hot EGTs cooking the bearings, coked oil destroyes required bearing tolerances, causing turbo C clip to spin and fail, exhaust pressure pushes past seals to create excessive back pressure into crank case. Also turbine/compressor blades can be and pushed forward into the turbo housings for a symphony of destruction.
Solution: Never turn the car off right after running with a large engine load and high EGTS. Drive around the side roads and let it cool or let it idle until it cools down. Change Oil every 5-6K miles to prevent oil failure and coked bearings.
Engine Failure due to failed pistons
Cause: Dirty intake valves cause intake issues with uneven intake flows, lean/rich fuel burns due to the PCV system dumping hot oil into the intake manifold and onto the cool intake valves. Oil builds and restricts flow causing bad readings and different air/fuel mixtures for different cylinders.
Solution: Catch can set up with the factory PCV system, or clean the intake valves once a year with walnut blasting.
Early Clutch Replacement (60-80K Miles)
Not enough clutch material (4mm) with the stupid dual mass flywheel.
Timing chain failure (intake leak codes, rattle)
Cause: BMW’s stupid oil change recommendations and a previous vehicle owner who didn’t check her oil between those stupid oil change recommendations.
Solution: Change Oil every 5-6K miles and check often.
Turbo Failure at 30-60K miles.
Cause: Heat soak coming up from the cat after a quick shutdown and still hot EGTs cooking the bearings, coked oil destroyes required bearing tolerances, causing turbo C clip to spin and fail, exhaust pressure pushes past seals to create excessive back pressure into crank case. Also turbine/compressor blades can be and pushed forward into the turbo housings for a symphony of destruction.
Solution: Never turn the car off right after running with a large engine load and high EGTS. Drive around the side roads and let it cool or let it idle until it cools down. Change Oil every 5-6K miles to prevent oil failure and coked bearings.
Engine Failure due to failed pistons
Cause: Dirty intake valves cause intake issues with uneven intake flows, lean/rich fuel burns due to the PCV system dumping hot oil into the intake manifold and onto the cool intake valves. Oil builds and restricts flow causing bad readings and different air/fuel mixtures for different cylinders.
Solution: Catch can set up with the factory PCV system, or clean the intake valves once a year with walnut blasting.
Early Clutch Replacement (60-80K Miles)
Not enough clutch material (4mm) with the stupid dual mass flywheel.
i set a service appointment up for the the rattle. thankfully its still under warranty. atleast until april of next year. otherwise the car runs great.
sometimes the aux sound doesnt come on though. ill wait like 10 minutes for that to work. idk if you guys have experienced this
sometimes the aux sound doesnt come on though. ill wait like 10 minutes for that to work. idk if you guys have experienced this
Personal experience and advice from dealer techs/aftermarket tuning shops.
Timing chain failure (intake leak codes, rattle)
Cause: BMW’s stupid oil change recommendations and a previous vehicle owner who didn’t check her oil between those stupid oil change recommendations.
Solution: Change Oil every 5-6K miles and check often.
Turbo Failure at 30-60K miles.
Cause: Heat soak coming up from the cat after a quick shutdown and still hot EGTs cooking the bearings, coked oil destroyes required bearing tolerances, causing turbo C clip to spin and fail, exhaust pressure pushes past seals to create excessive back pressure into crank case. Also turbine/compressor blades can be and pushed forward into the turbo housings for a symphony of destruction.
Solution: Never turn the car off right after running with a large engine load and high EGTS. Drive around the side roads and let it cool or let it idle until it cools down. Change Oil every 5-6K miles to prevent oil failure and coked bearings.
Engine Failure due to failed pistons
Cause: Dirty intake valves cause intake issues with uneven intake flows, lean/rich fuel burns due to the PCV system dumping hot oil into the intake manifold and onto the cool intake valves. Oil builds and restricts flow causing bad readings and different air/fuel mixtures for different cylinders.
Solution: Catch can set up with the factory PCV system, or clean the intake valves once a year with walnut blasting.
Early Clutch Replacement (60-80K Miles)
Not enough clutch material (4mm) with the stupid dual mass flywheel.
Timing chain failure (intake leak codes, rattle)
Cause: BMW’s stupid oil change recommendations and a previous vehicle owner who didn’t check her oil between those stupid oil change recommendations.
Solution: Change Oil every 5-6K miles and check often.
Turbo Failure at 30-60K miles.
Cause: Heat soak coming up from the cat after a quick shutdown and still hot EGTs cooking the bearings, coked oil destroyes required bearing tolerances, causing turbo C clip to spin and fail, exhaust pressure pushes past seals to create excessive back pressure into crank case. Also turbine/compressor blades can be and pushed forward into the turbo housings for a symphony of destruction.
Solution: Never turn the car off right after running with a large engine load and high EGTS. Drive around the side roads and let it cool or let it idle until it cools down. Change Oil every 5-6K miles to prevent oil failure and coked bearings.
Engine Failure due to failed pistons
Cause: Dirty intake valves cause intake issues with uneven intake flows, lean/rich fuel burns due to the PCV system dumping hot oil into the intake manifold and onto the cool intake valves. Oil builds and restricts flow causing bad readings and different air/fuel mixtures for different cylinders.
Solution: Catch can set up with the factory PCV system, or clean the intake valves once a year with walnut blasting.
Early Clutch Replacement (60-80K Miles)
Not enough clutch material (4mm) with the stupid dual mass flywheel.
It’s an interesting question asking if the 2008+ years would be any different. I may be interested in a All4 for my wife but I don’t know if I could handle taking care of two basket cases. The majority of the issues are mainly just related to bad oil maintenance which seems to be universal across all Turbo MINIs and BMWs for that matter.
I owned a 2008 Solstice GXP with a similar motor and turbo. The Solstice used the LNF motor, a 2.0L DI, Twin Scroll with VVT that I had tuned for about 320 horsepower. That motor was a sweetheart without any comparable issues. Interestingly the Solstice forums weren't full of timing chain, turbo, and engine failures.
GM is the best power-train company in the world but gosh, MINI/BMW sure seem to be okay with such sub-par reliability issues.
I owned a 2008 Solstice GXP with a similar motor and turbo. The Solstice used the LNF motor, a 2.0L DI, Twin Scroll with VVT that I had tuned for about 320 horsepower. That motor was a sweetheart without any comparable issues. Interestingly the Solstice forums weren't full of timing chain, turbo, and engine failures.
GM is the best power-train company in the world but gosh, MINI/BMW sure seem to be okay with such sub-par reliability issues.
I have a 2007 R56S.
My first engine went 115k Miles without major failure. And with the stock timing chain. I was tuned for about 65-70k miles.
Had minor things like HPFP (free under recall), thermostat housing and water pump and a coil pack (common on any car from time to time.).
My first engine went 115k Miles without major failure. And with the stock timing chain. I was tuned for about 65-70k miles.
Had minor things like HPFP (free under recall), thermostat housing and water pump and a coil pack (common on any car from time to time.).
yeah i hear the claterring when i start it up sometimes too.. what is that? should i be worried.
when i came home yesterday i parked, turned the car off went upstairs.. came down with my dog to take her outside and the cars fan was on for a good minute, anybody know why it was doing that?
when i came home yesterday i parked, turned the car off went upstairs.. came down with my dog to take her outside and the cars fan was on for a good minute, anybody know why it was doing that?
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