My 09 MCS has just under 46k and the front brake service indicator came on recently. I like to get all of my maintenance done at the dealer while still under warranty but they're asking ~$550 for pads, rotors, sensor and reset the light. Do rotors need to be replaced with the pads? I plan on ordering my new MCS (or Coupe, haven't decided yet) in March so any money I spend now is less towards the down payment then.

 

I have not changed pads in my MINI yet, but with my other cars if no vibrations I just change pads.

 

How worn are the rotors?

 

It's now common practice and highly recommended that rotors are replaced, even if the minimal thickness hasn't be reached.
Why? Rotors are now considered a wear-throw-away item because of the thinner tolerances.
Also because rotors now are typically cased hardened and aren't subjected to machining or "turned-down" because it would destroy conventional tooling.

The other major reason new rotors always go with new pads is because a new flat pad should be mated to a new flat rotor.
Used rotors have 'hills and valleys' across the braking surface and a new pad won't mate 100% against it...
That means you are not getting the maximum clamping force onto the rotor, which turns into a safety item.

$550 isn't a huge amount for all four rotors, the eight replacement pads, wear-sensor, and (was noted, but probably comes with a) fluid flush.
If you priced out parts alone, you'll find that doing it at home is a little cheaper, but if you're crunched for time, the dealer does excellent work.

- Erik

 

I agree that the price is very reasonable.

 

They seem to be for the fronts only.

 

Right this is $550 for the front, not all 4. Rears will be due in about 6k according to the computer.

 

Oem rotors tend to be soft.....and are usually only good for ONE set of oem pads....many folks get 2 aftermarket sets of pads that are rotor friendly...
The rotors need to be measured...only real way to tell...but if you want performance, change the rotors...if it is a grocery getter car, you might get lucky...
But brakes are simple...a non dealer can change them or a diy for a fraction of the dealer cost...and have new pads/rotors for less using quality products.

 

Just so I'm understanding this, new rotors can't be turned like the old days because they are hardened, but the still need replacing as often as the old, softer rotors?

 

To try to lighten cars, and improve performance and fuel economy, new rotors START with much less metal than rotors in older cars....
Rotors are machined cast iron....
A few companies can treat them...cryo treating can help, or others add copper to the iron, but they are not "hardened" so to say....
Generally since the calipers are limited to physically to how narrow a rotor/pad they can squeeze, and a lighter, thinner rotor has less mass to begin, new rotors are recommended most of the time...less mass means they physically can hold less heat from repeated stop before overheating....but from a performance standpoint, reducing 1 pound of mass from a spinning item like a tire or rim has the same edfeciency as removing 4 pounds from the car body, oems are going to lighter brakes...and many car folks are getting bigbrake kits to counter the trend...
since you are keeping the car for a short time, just make sure the rotors meet the minimum thickness, are smooth and true. Usually they cannot be machined...simply too thin when done to reuse, so you waste the $$ on the machining...
The rotors, if you can reuse them sre usually deglazed...scotchbrite, etc, to give the new pads a place to bite....rhen you "try" to bed them....if bedding fails....pads are basicly junk...so most shops just put new pads and rotors...so the customer does not get stuck with a bill for extra $$ or the shop does not take a hit.
For a diy'r.....you can try.

 

P.s.
The computer is just guessing the due time....just like the sensor on the pad monitors one of 4 pads, front or rear...
They are noth just a cya from a law department to make sure folks get them checked....the actual thickness of the pad materal left on the backer plate is what counts....can be measured with a simple tool...looks like a tire tread depth guage...can check all 8 pads in a few minutes on a lift....

 

As zippy said the computer is guessing. Look at the pads and rotors on your own....don't even need a lift! At least for quick visual inspection.

That said 50k miles is about right.

I did not replace my front rotors when I did my first front pad swap and all was well.

- Andrew

 

Blank rotors can be had for $32 each on TireRack, might as well get them. My dealer had no problems with installing aftermarket stuff, I emailed my SA for a price quote... $200 installed if I brought in parts, $517 for installation with OEM parts. $150 for a brake fluid change.

I generally like taking my car to the dealer, even though it's a little more expensive... I like it there, I like my SA, and I want to maintain a good relationship. However, my local tire place where I have tire/wheel stuff done, only wants $130 to install aftermarket parts and $69 for a fluid flush. For $150 savings, the dealer loses this one.

 

Then I retract my pricing statement; that's high for just the fronts even from a dealership standard.

And would agree with the comments above, spot check you pads and rotors first to determine if replacement is required.

- Erik

 

SHORT ANSWER: NO

Long answer:

MINI dealers used to always replace the rotors with the pads ... I'm going all the way back to 2002 model year here. I'm a "plank owner" having bought an early 2002.... popular wisdom then said always replace the rotors with the pads; that;s what the dealer did. A pre-pay maint' pad change always included rotors (at my dealer and all I read about). But even then I went two sets of pads to a set of rotors using EBC Green pads and original rotors, once I was out of pre-pay maint'. Did this myself, and for several folks I became "brakes guy" for.

I agree, don't try to resurface MINI rotors. Soft and thin .... replacements - plain jane - are not expensive or hard to find (caution buying over the web tho ... they are HEAVY and shipping can bite you)

If you don't have "significant" grooving ..... well, I've been able to bed EBC pads just fine. They learn the ridges just as well as they learn the flat. Heck, geometrically the ridges INCREASE the friction surface area!

In the last year or two, I've seen a number of threads about brakes where it was clearly stated the MINI dealer was no longer 'automatically' changing the rotors just because the pads were due.

WITHOUT A DOUBT ... do NOT trust the computer or the sensor. Check pad condition yourself - with most MINI wheels you can do it w/out removing a wheel IF you know what to look for. Search MY posts for pictures of what to look for . . .

Minimum thickness is cast into the rotor ....

Once you pull the caliber to get to the pads, you are 90% thru a rotor replacement so far as labor. It GALLS me when a garage significantly increases the labor charge when rotors are included.

 

To be fair, on the MINI you do need to pull the entire caliper assembly (two bolts) as well as the rotor screw (which could be seized.) But yea, there's not much work there.

 

Is the rotor screw considered important? The head of my R/R screw snapped off before the threads would give. I put it together & find no fault but it bothers me when something isn't the way it is supposed to be. If it is important, i'll drill it out when I do brakes sometime in future.

09 MCS

 

That screw just keeps the rotor inplace till the rims and caliper are installed on the production line...so not needed.

 

Front brakes are on of the easiest DIY's there is. Simple hand tools and some AeroKroil. If you can change your own oil, you should be able to do front brakes.

The parts should cost about $200? (2 rotors and a set of pads).

 

I bit the bullet and made an appt today at the dealer, I want them to fix the cold start noise anyway before I'm out of warranty (at 46k now). DIY may be easy for some of you folks but I'm just not mechanically inclined. I can do electrical stuff, but when it comes to mechanical I just suck, the most I've done on my MINI (on the outside) is rotating tires and fitting the hood scoop. I always tell myself that on my next car I'll do oil changes and things like that, but never do.

Who knows, maybe if the cold start issue is fixed I may actually keep this MINI longer but right now it's driving me crazy sounding like a diesel tractor when I set off in the morning, it sounds like the engine is going to self-destruct at any moment.

 

I've had it go both ways. Got away with not changing the rotors on my 3 series that was totaled by a maniac. My wife demanded better stopping power on the Suzuki (pads were not even half worn) so I put EBC Green on the original rotors. For whatever reason the rotors went totally bad a couple months later.

When I do mine I plan to replace the rotors. Everything seems to last twice
as long when you replace them together. And not being the most complex
job it is still an amount of labor I do not want to do twice.

 

It's important to do a good bedding procedure when you swap pads, no matter what. It's still a waste in my experience to replace rotors if they aren't due, but if you're getting close it can be convenient.

- Andrew