R56 topside oil changer
#1
topside oil changer
I bought that item few months ago and today I decided to change oil with that. but... I pumped about 30-40 times and place the tube in the dipstick hole and it sucked up only few and stopped. I think air leaks everytime I pump.. I checked everything but there is nothing wrong...anybody has same problem?
#2
#3
omg... what am i supposed to do... i've been pumping like over 300 times.. my shoulder is sore.....so... did you return it?
#4
#7
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#8
#10
Look, if you are serious about doing your own maintenance, buy decent tools.
For $100 you could have bought http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page which really works and is well made.
For $100 you could have bought http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page which really works and is well made.
#12
Look, if you are serious about doing your own maintenance, buy decent tools.
For $100 you could have bought http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page which really works and is well made.
For $100 you could have bought http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page which really works and is well made.
I have that exact pump except buy the neumatic version, just hook up to air compressor and let it suck. works great.
#13
#18
CCT1 wrote,
Just buy a fumoto valve, and do it properly from below.....
It's faster, and you'll get every last bit out.
Good idea for R50/R53, bad idea for R56. The newer engines have a vertical opening, which would result in the valve being the lowpoint on the engine. One ding and you're out of oil, possibly without even knowing it. The older engines had horizontal drain plug openings, making for a great spot to put a valve.
HTH someone avoid a painful experience.
Just buy a fumoto valve, and do it properly from below.....
It's faster, and you'll get every last bit out.
Good idea for R50/R53, bad idea for R56. The newer engines have a vertical opening, which would result in the valve being the lowpoint on the engine. One ding and you're out of oil, possibly without even knowing it. The older engines had horizontal drain plug openings, making for a great spot to put a valve.
HTH someone avoid a painful experience.
#19
I had a similar problem this weekend. The first 2 or three times that I had used it it worked like a charm. This weekend was a bit cool about 46 degres F. I noticed that I could not develop suction. It should be perfect at about 35 pumps. So, it had to be the sealing of the rubber gaskets on one of the fittings or the other. It was, the large gasket, below the pump itself had got in the wrong location. It must be set up so that it goes against the can's metal. I think they made the diameters a little too small, and the gaskets have a tendency to move . Check this very carefully. On each spout, the large and the small, a rubber seal must align on its rim when screwing on the fittings. Once I sorted this out, it worked well.
I've been meaning to nip the end of the thin tube to make sure that a flat end can't seal itself off by pressing against a flat surface, either the bottom of the oil pan or a side wall. Better to have a tiny bit left behind. Remember that the oil itself and the filter are designed to suspend particles. I think it's doing a fine job, if you can get the seals to be air-tight.
I bring the old oil to a re-cycling center near by, but I understand that most gas stations will take the old oil. Best to check ahead of time.
Now can anybody tell me how to bet an easier to read dip stick? This thing's bloody awful on my 2010 Cooper.
I've been meaning to nip the end of the thin tube to make sure that a flat end can't seal itself off by pressing against a flat surface, either the bottom of the oil pan or a side wall. Better to have a tiny bit left behind. Remember that the oil itself and the filter are designed to suspend particles. I think it's doing a fine job, if you can get the seals to be air-tight.
I bring the old oil to a re-cycling center near by, but I understand that most gas stations will take the old oil. Best to check ahead of time.
Now can anybody tell me how to bet an easier to read dip stick? This thing's bloody awful on my 2010 Cooper.
#20
+1 on the Mityvac. I have the smaller version without the pump on the side, the pump is built into the main chamber. I've used it since 1999 with no issues at all. I keep finding more uses for it.
One word of warning, warm oil is easier to extract, but if it is too warm the plastic tube you insert down the dipstick pipe will expand and can get stuck in the dipstick pipe. The trick if this happens is to let it cool. Don't panic and try to force it out. (Ask me how I know......).
I feel it gets every bit of oil and grit out of the bottom of the oil pan, just as draining from the plug does. I've measured the oil taken out both ways and they are the same. It is nice not having to crawl under the car to drain the oil. I hate ramps myself. I'm always worried about rolling over the top.
One word of warning, warm oil is easier to extract, but if it is too warm the plastic tube you insert down the dipstick pipe will expand and can get stuck in the dipstick pipe. The trick if this happens is to let it cool. Don't panic and try to force it out. (Ask me how I know......).
I feel it gets every bit of oil and grit out of the bottom of the oil pan, just as draining from the plug does. I've measured the oil taken out both ways and they are the same. It is nice not having to crawl under the car to drain the oil. I hate ramps myself. I'm always worried about rolling over the top.
#21
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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I have an ebay electric oil pump that I used to suck the oil out this weekend. And since I changed the transmission fluid as well, I wanted to see how much oil was left in the pan.
THREE DROPS came out (with the car jacked at angle so the drain plug was the lowest point)!
Awesome! So quick and easy to change the oil this way.
THREE DROPS came out (with the car jacked at angle so the drain plug was the lowest point)!
Awesome! So quick and easy to change the oil this way.
#22
I bought a Pela 6000 oil extractor about 10 yrs ago when I owned a VW TDI and have been using it ever since. I use it on the MINI about every-other oil change and it comes in handy. The extraction tube is actually a plastic covered metal coil construction...very sturdy and handles hot oil fine....and the suction pump is quite strong. Has never let me down and you don't have to pump it til your arm goes numb.
http://www.pelaproducts.com/
http://www.pelaproducts.com/
#23
That's why I have a lift in my garage... I'll never have to crawl under a car on jack stands unless I WANT to.
+1 on the Mityvac. I have the smaller version without the pump on the side, the pump is built into the main chamber. I've used it since 1999 with no issues at all. I keep finding more uses for it.
One word of warning, warm oil is easier to extract, but if it is too warm the plastic tube you insert down the dipstick pipe will expand and can get stuck in the dipstick pipe. The trick if this happens is to let it cool. Don't panic and try to force it out. (Ask me how I know......).
I feel it gets every bit of oil and grit out of the bottom of the oil pan, just as draining from the plug does. I've measured the oil taken out both ways and they are the same. It is nice not having to crawl under the car to drain the oil. I hate ramps myself. I'm always worried about rolling over the top.
One word of warning, warm oil is easier to extract, but if it is too warm the plastic tube you insert down the dipstick pipe will expand and can get stuck in the dipstick pipe. The trick if this happens is to let it cool. Don't panic and try to force it out. (Ask me how I know......).
I feel it gets every bit of oil and grit out of the bottom of the oil pan, just as draining from the plug does. I've measured the oil taken out both ways and they are the same. It is nice not having to crawl under the car to drain the oil. I hate ramps myself. I'm always worried about rolling over the top.
#24