Anyone know how long for first tune up? Manual says 60k for S models and 100k for base models. My mechanic says 100k for either. Also, anyone know the going rate?

 

Idk but your car looks good with the black wheels I think I'm gonna do black on my car too.

 

From our experience:

air filter needs to be replaced about 30k miles.

Spark plugs we replace on the Turbo car every 30-40k. Seems early, but we keep finding them at 50-60 with the electrode burnt completely off.

Cabin filter once a year.

Oil change every 5k

Drive belt every 4yrs or 60k miles.

 

I think Way's advice should be followed.

 

Price for tune up? No Mini Cooper dealer in town. People are suggesting the local BMW dealer. They charge $95

 

"tune up" seems to be an outdated concept these days. Mini replaces components as the computer tells them it is needed. Air Filter, Cabin Filter & spark plugs are pretty simple DIY stuff. Oil change is a bit more involved and I take my cars to a mechanic who is more fussy about it than I am.

 

I just had a "tune up" on my 2008 base Mini. It's recommended at 100,000 miles and at about 100,00 miles the car started stuttering with no acceleration. It needed the old fashioned touch. New park plugs and a coil was shot. I wholeheartedly agree with frequent oil changes. This will help prevent other potential big repairs in your car.

 

I brought my Clubman in to bmw for an oil change. The service tech used my key to read the data on my car, really cool. I didn't know about this. He said I didn't need an oil change for another 6k. Is it just me, or is having a Mini Cooper more of an addiction/lifestyle than just car ownership :-D

 

The monitor system in the car may have a very long oil change interval programmed. Depends on the model year as they cut the interval in 1/2 at some point. If you have a S, then go with a 5k interval on the oil change. You car is worth it and you have so many fewer issues down the road if the oil refreshed.

I just changed plugs in my '12S at 61k miles. I was getting hesitation under full throttle with fun codes and going into limp mode. Seafoam'ed the intake and changed the plugs and the problem is solved. I won't wait so long before I change them again. All were out of spec and 2 were mostly gone. A dead plug will kill the ignition coil pack trying to fire it.

Cheers, Kevin.

 

It seems to me, changing your oil every 5k is a bit overkill. Especially considered it's high end synthetic.

 

My 2008 didn't require its first oil change, according to the computer, until 19,000 miles. That being with the synthetic oil. That is way too long regardless of driving habits. It's better to error on the frequent side rather than the infrequent side.

 

This has been discusssed endlessly, BUT assuming you drive 12k/year i think 6months/6k miles is a very reasonable mtc schedule for oil changes. Its not like changing your oil will do damage to your engine if you do it too much.

 

i have a 2012 s ...is changing the spark plugs a do it your self in an hour job?

 

As long as you have a torque wrench & the proper spark plug socket it is. Do your plug change on a cold engine.

 

Spark plugs and oil changes, both very easy to do, both easy to screw up. If they aren't done properly, serious issues can happen. That being said I would change the plugs every 40-50k and the oil really depends, wouldn't go further than 7k . I clean my k&n filter usually every 6 months, or replace the paper filters once a year.

 

I'm not going to beat the dead horse on oil changes, I tested my oil at a LAB and about 8K is the max before it runs out of the good stuff.

Plugs, yes, often. My wife had a plug drop the insulator at 36K , caused misfires, so I would say 40K plug changes on S models.

 

Spark plug change is very doable. Just remember you are threading into an aluminum head. Put dielectric grease on the threads, thread them in by hand using just the socket and an extension, torque to 25 ft/lbs. put some dielectric grease on the coil pack and they will be much easier to remove next time.

Cheers.

 

I use antiseize on threads, which you should do any time you put steel into alum . Grease is a good idea too, on the coil end of plug.

 

I used dielectric grease for the spark plug because the threads are the grounding connection of the plug and the better the electrical conducting between the plug and the head the better the ignition will be. Not sure if it's any better or worse than anti seize which is aluminum, copper and graphite.

I live in Chicago and we salt roads here. So any bolt or nut that I loosen on a car get's anti seize paste when I reassemble it. Any metal on metal contact needs something or it will fuse together over time.

Again, Cheers.

 

Having been an electronic tech for over 30 yrs I can tell you that your thinking is wrong about dielectric grease. It's an insulator and will not help the grounding , we use it in RF connectors to keep water out and if it conducted that would not work, at all. If you don't believe me google it.
Dielectric grease is electrically http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_insulation and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_connector, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arcing.

And being born and raised in Chicago I know all about the cancer of cars. I don't miss that.

 

There are a couple of views on using anti-seize on plugs. One is use it especially on plugs going into an aluminum head. The other is don't. Plug makers say it isn't needed due to coatings applied to the threads during manufacture.

Me I use just a very tiny kiss of anti-seize on plugs. I use dielectric grease on all electrical connections.

 

I took Way Motor's Advice as posted above and changed my cabin filter, ordered my spark plugs, drive belt going to be installed next week when I install my new exhaust and I have an AEM CAI filter I wash clean when needed. I also keep my oil changed ever 3k miles or so.

However, I did find a pretty good mini performance shop down here and when I asked about a tune.... the mechanic told me 800 bux but I think his tune is different then what is being discussed here. I am waiting for him to come back from vacation to ask him exactly what parts are installed during this tune as I know he did mention something about it being done through the his computer at the shop as well.

 

Changing your oil every 3k is overkill, and a waste of money. The high- end synthetic oil simply does not need to be changed that often, assuming that's what you're using.

 

yeah I use the Synthetic. I was told it is overkill lol
I figured if Mini Dealership won't change it for like 8 months... I might as well just do it myself =/

 

Good for you though. Better safe than sorry.
Happy motoring!