So just over a month ago the check engine light came on in my car. I started it up for the day and was just heading off to work. I pulled over on the freeway to check my manual and it said I could still drive it. So I called the dealership from work (I work about 10 miles from home) and told them. They could get me in that day, but they couldn't provide me with a loaner. OK I thought, get me a rental. So when I questioned the guy he said something about me being old enough to even get a loaned. So I kindly informed him of my age. Still no car. So I could get it in the next day and did so.

So the problem was "carbon build up on intake valves". Also, "removed intake manifold and inspected valves, found carbon build up on all valves to stage 5." They walnut-blasted it.

So I go to pick up the car and the service manager tells me that what I can do is "drive it in S mode more" and essentially drive it a little harder. I said "isn't S mode harder on the car/engine long term?" "Yes" was the reply I got.

Anyway, does that sound right? I mean the "drive it in S mode" bit? And while I don't use S mode a lot, I do easily drive a good 10 mph over the limit every day. I mean my Dad was like "drive faster?" while he was thinking to himself that it's the last thing I need to do.

 

Oh, and I totally forgot this question. Should they not have either given me a loaner or get me a rental car? Last time I had a check engine light they got me a rental and the rental place is a block away from the dealership.

 

In the four years that I have had my Clubman S, I've had the "check engine" light come on so many times that it is burned in my retina.

Carbon build up, fuel pump, blue tooth won't work, sunroof won't work, numerous computer resets, new turbo, new timing belt, sun visor broke ($160 to replace), and all the other nuances that go with Mini. In additon my service manager came from hell.

Welcome to the world of Mini.

 

Seems to depend on the dealership. My usual dealership close to work longer offers loaners for people that did not purchase from them... so I no longer get a loaner. I haven't been back there since.

This carbon build up on DI engines is really haunting me. The design just promotes carbon buildup plain and simple. No idea if I should consider a meth injection or catch catch can - still have not decided. Seems to be a lot of DI engines having this issue from various makes and models. From what I have read driving the car hard may help a little but at some point you are going to end up with carbon buildup over the course of a few years. FYI he probably meant high revs, hard on throttle at least sometimes - not high speed.

 

Same problem for me. Brand new 2011 Clubman S, 4.5k miles. First time was a diverter valve issue. Fixed. Car feel sluggish. On freeway, engy light came on. I had to drive for 15 minute, light goes off. Ok, I thought maybe it was electric gremlins. Next day, get on freeway, light comes on again. Brought it in. Dealership has it now and still don't know what's going on with it. They're super busy though.

Good thing: My service advisers Alex and Matt are AWESOME. Always have a loaner available, if not, they immediately offer a rental. I'm super lucky the 3 dealerships here in DFW are great.

I love my mini, don't get me wrong, but I got it to drive it, not to have it stuck in the shop. If they can't fix it, I'm going to trade it in for a WRX while I still have some good value on the car. Then the only problem is learning how to drive stick, versus, is this car going to die on me on the freeway.

I hope your car don't give you any more trouble from now on!

 

Not sure about the S mode part since that is mostly a "feel" adjustment (and some different shift pints for autos). I think the point is that the engine needs to run at a decently high rpm/temp on a regular basis in order to burn off the stuff causing the carbon build up.

 

Ugh... I'm gonna get some flack from those who won't understand but here goes: Yes, you should drive the car a little 'harder' to reduce the amount of carbon build-up. Why is that the case? The oil vapor that's being pulling in from the crankcase is being sucked into the intake manifold at too slow of rate allowing it to collect on the backside of the valves. Also, there's not enough heat burning off the very low amount of mist that's pulled. As time progresses that collection is increased due to low RPMs, and not bringing the engine to full operating temperature to flash-burn off any remits.

If you properly allow the engine to warm-up and cool-down, there is NO reason why you'd induce "more harm" driving it in Sport mode versus the standard. If you're watching your oil change frequencies and keeping a full oil capacity in the engine, I can assure you that the engine will run top shape from now till well past 100K miles. Key things is ownership maintenance and care; I have several turbo four-cylinder cars that have lasted deep into the 6-figure mileage count without engine failure, acute oil consumption, or lack of first-day performance.

It's not the physical vehicle speed; it's the engine speed: RPMs. Don't be afraid after the car reaches normal operating temperature to run the thing to redline. Seriously, my Clubman sees the top of the tach evening morning and evening drive home from the office once water and oil temp are to spec.

Don't hinder yourself by thinking you can't wring-up the RPMs on this engine package.

- Erik

 

Good post. A couple of noob questions here..

How do we know when the water and oil temperature are up to spec?

What is a good way to let the engine warm up? The manual says once I start the car, I can drive it at a moderate speed and that I shouldn't let it idle.

 

Good questions back:

Easy response would be to look at the gauges, buy however as you know, those aren't provided OEM equipment.
You can install aftermarket gauge packages to read oil and water temp...
Or, base it off time of use via experiment. On a standard day (50deg+ F), both fluids reach running temp in matter of 5-7 minutes most times.
On colder days (32deg or lower) it will take longer due to colder engine block, accessories, etc.

My current process (in 20deg F weather) is typically allowing 7-8 minutes of 'relaxed' driving characteristics before high-rev'ing.

The manual is correct. Fire up the car and proceed at low to moderate engine speeds for the first couple minutes. Idling doesn't provide the designed intent of thermodynamics of heat transfer; there can occur undesired hot / cold spots in the powertrain versus a gradual uniform heating.

- Erik

 

Thanks!

 

Great way to put it. Mine does not see "redline" but does see better than 5500 most days at some point, and it has dramatically reduced the carbon problems in the engine. A number of the private MINI shops in the country recommend this same thing of running the car hard and making sure the engine revs get up above 4k at least a few times each driving session.

And I see NO reason you should get any flack for being truthful. It is just a fact that these engines need to be run harder. And if maintained properly they should last for well over 100k miles.

 

SO HERE WE GO AGAIN... Before I get into another question, check engine again today and the dealer AGAIN doesn't have a loaner even though I got the car from them and it's still under warranty. Shouldn't I be getting a loaner or a rental if I'm getting a check engine light and it's under warranty? They can't get me in to check on the car until Friday, or maybe that's when they'll have a loaner back, I don't know, but either way shouldn't I be getting a loaner until then?

So next question. Before that, some history. I decided to pay for an oil change inbetween the usual oil changes at 7500 miles. I thought "why not" and I want to keep the car in shape. Then about 9000 miles after that during the hot July weather I noticed a noise while driving. The next two days cooled off and it went away. Then I was heading home on a hot day and again heard the noise and literally less than a mile after starting to drive the car just shut down. The timing chain snapped. So the dealership told me that I needed to check the oil frequently. While to an extent I get that, it was nowhere near the 15000 mile mark and they were the only ones ever putting oil in it. Anyway, does this sound like a plausible argument? The timing chain would snap as a result of this? ALSO, AND THIS IS BIG, THE "CHECK OIL" LIGHT never came on. So I asked the service manager shouldn't that light come on if I'm low on oil? The service manager told me there wasn't one. Is that right? The manual says there's a "Engine oil pressure too low" light. I assume that means the same thing.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Checking the oil level and changing the oil are two different things. No matter what oil change interval you select, you should check the oil level on a regular basis - every time you get gas, every other time, whatever you decide so long as it is frequent and consistent.

Yes, if the oil pressure gets too low it will trigger a warning light. Low oil would be one cause for that. jmo, but by the time the light comes on, if it is due to low oil you have been running with low oil for quite a while.

 

Thanks.

See my concern here now is that an oil light never came on and the service manager is telling me there isn't one.

 

turn on the heater fan on low, direct the air to the round vents on the dash, put the temp selector in the hottest position

when the air is coming out hot, you are "up to temp", readjust the fan, air and temp to suit

drive with a light throttle and low rpms until warm, i keep it under 3000 rpm until warm

then, drive it like you stole it!

scott

 

I think your SA is probably trying to say there is not a low oil level warning light. That is correct. There is a low oil pressure light. You can be low on oil but not oil pressure.

 

I have a scangauge which has a coolant temp reading. I usually wait till it is about 180 degrees F before getting more aggressive. It is about $160 and takes 10 minutes to install including mounting.

Full warm is about 220 degrees F.

 

Op, while you certainly should get a loaner, there is no guaranty to get one at short notice. Usually they get booked up quite early.

Yes, there is no low oil gauge but there is a low oil pressure gauge. Good advise to check your oil often.

 

i don't know about the various mini engines, but on most vehicles i have owned, the low oil pressure light should be labeled:

"open your wallet, the damage has already been done"

on page 122 of the om for my cms all4 it says:

Engine oil

The engine oil consumption is dependent on
driving style and driving conditions.

Check the engine oil level regularly, e.g. when
refueling.

failure to check the oil level regularly leads to an expensive lesson

i check my oil every morning before the first start of the day

if you check the oil cold and then check it hot per the om, you will soon learn the proper cold level

scott

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll be checking my oil more regularly. On a side note though, don't most vehicles (not MINIs) have "low oil" warnings? I'm pretty sure my previous car did, though I never saw it come on.

Anyway, went to the dealer today. This time it was a bad spark plug. I also mentioned how the window was still leaking water when I went through the car wash (it was an emergency, no brushes) and so they fixed that too. I mentioned I was hearing a rattle on the driver's side from when they fixed the window the last time. Told me it was fixed today and no rattle, but on the 7 mile ride home I started hearing the rattle again. Definitely more pronounced this time too. Service Manager seemed annoyed when I called back, but it's under warranty and it's pretty noticeable, not to mention he told me it was gone. Back again next week.