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R55 Rough Idle after Highway Driving

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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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Rough Idle after Highway Driving

Need some help! I have a 2008 Clubman with 65k miles. Couple of months ago engine light came on and took to dealership and they replaced the thermostat and water pump. After that, every once and while the car tries to stall out when I come to a stop at red lights. Does not do it regular but is starting to do it more regular. More so when I drive at highway speeds for over 30 minutes and then come into town and stop at the first light. I have tried fuel injector cleaner and changed the air filter (very dirty). SO far I have had no engine lights come on except last week. Car would not idle and orange engine light came on. I parked for 10 minutes and restarted and light went out and car idled perfect the rest of the day. I have been told a foul plug or fuel pump going may be causing the issue. I do not want to take back to the dealership as I cannot afford another 800 dollar bill... Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
I have been told a foul plug or fuel pump going may be causing the issue.
No need to guess if you get the ECU scanned with a OBDII scanner.
That will tell you directly what the ECU is saying is wrong based on the hard fault code evidence.

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Spark plug problem

Okay the dealership said spark plug or fuel injector. $250 to replace all the spark plugs, they never hooked up to scanner.

Went home, engine light came on half way home and lost power. Local shop hooked up scanner. Number 2 cylinder misfiring. Engine light on!

Took home, sat for an hour cranked up no engine light runs fine until it warms up. After 30 minutes rough idle leading to engine light and loss of pwoer.

I am assuming I need to replace the plugs. I am going to attempy myself. Any suggestions on plugs? I was advised to go with the iruduim plugs? What tools will I need? I am also assuming I will not need to gap these plugs.

One last question could it also be the coil? I was told it might but I know a little about cars and if an ignition coil is bad it simply will not work, it will not go bad after warming up? Or will it?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

Last edited by alexsharp; Jul 26, 2011 at 03:53 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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It sure sounds to me like it could be the HPFP starting to act up.The symptoms your describing, idle,hesitation,etc.lead to this very common problem on the MINI.On the plus side MINI is warrantying them to 100,000 mi.Have them scan for codes at your local Auto Zone (free)etc. to verify your problem.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by minimize07
It sure sounds to me like it could be the HPFP starting to act up.The symptoms your describing, idle,hesitation,etc.lead to this very common problem on the MINI.On the plus side MINI is warrantying them to 100,000 mi.Have them scan for codes at your local Auto Zone (free)etc. to verify your problem.
He already had the codes scanned... Cylinder 2 misfire. Sounds kind of like HPFP which is free and under warranty to 100,000. I would take the plugs out and see if they look bad first before replacing them. It's pretty straight forward. And buy the exact OEM ones! I wouldn't get anything else in a turboed German car honestly. Usually like $15 a piece plugs I would guess
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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I dont think I have a fuel pump issue. misfire means the coil or spark plug. The car has 65k on it so it would not hurt to change out. I will look at the plugs and let everyone know how it turns out. For FYI the scanners they use at the auto parts stores do not diagnose a mini.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
For FYI the scanners they use at the auto parts stores do not diagnose a mini.
Generic OBD-II scanners aren't specific to Mini... but you still can pull federal mandated fault p-codes with a generic scanner.

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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Need to identify the #2 cylinder

Anyone know the cylinder number for my 2008 Clubman(non-S), We have a new ignition coil for the # 2 and I am not sure how the firing order is...I know both outer are not the right ones, but is it second or third from left to right?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
I know both outer are not the right ones, but is it second or third from left to right?
Cylinder order is as follows:
Right side (US-spec passenger side) --> 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 <-- Left side (US-spec driver side)

- Erik
 
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Last edited by bluefox280; Jul 27, 2011 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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Still not clear

Sorry, but I just want to make sure. My Clubman is a US car. SO as I am looking at the engine with open bonnet, my left to right is 1 2 3 and 4?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
SO as I am looking at the engine with open bonnet, my left to right is 1 2 3 and 4?
Correct-a-mondo!

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Not to scare you, but I had a consistent misfire on cylinder 2 about 2 months back. The dealer replaced the spark plug and cleaned the injector.
All was fine, until last week while doing a road trip from Los Angeles to Oklahoma. It started to misfire accelerating up hills, then when we got to Albuquerque it was idling bad.
I took it to the dealer there and they pulled the plugs to check. plug #2 was broken, as in the ceramic part would turn on axis and it was very dirty.
They replaced the plug and it was idling normal again until I went to leave and it was struggling to get up the driveway.
Back in to the shop, they hooked it up to the ECU and read the codes. Long story short, I am getting a new motor. Not sure if it's a broken piston yet, but I'll bet it is.

What is it with cylinder 2 in these cars?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 5zero4
What is it with cylinder 2 in these cars?
Heat, mainly... not able to reduce high combustion temperatures.

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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I had no problems with coolant temp levels (220F) and intake air temps were around 100F till we got to flagstaff (92F) then about 108F in Albuquerque. Although the weird thing is, on days when I saw intake temps around 130F, the coolant temp would drop to 178F.... weird
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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Hope its not a broken piston!

Mine only msifires when its warmed up...I would think that precludes a broken piston. New plugs and one new coil ready for install tommorrow morning! Wish me luck!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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Gap on plugs?

I got the OEM replacement plugs from my mini dealership. Will they need to be gapped? Is so anyone know the correct gap? 2008 CLubman N series engine. NOT a turbo!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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New plugs new coil, still starts missing after it warms up. THIS SUCKS. I might not be getting a Countryman!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
New plugs new coil, still starts missing after it warms up. THIS SUCKS. I might not be getting a Countryman!
Try a different brand of gas, Shell,Exxon ,"top tier" etc...I had a problem with a "bad tank" and when I refilled it with Shell 93 from my hometown station it was runnung great again...Ya never know what these fiinicky cars like to drink
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
New plugs new coil, still starts missing after it warms up. THIS SUCKS. I might not be getting a Countryman!
MAF sensor maybe?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
New plugs new coil, still starts missing after it warms up. THIS SUCKS.
Re-tap in a OBDII scanner and get an up-to-date report on what the ECU is seeing.

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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Wtf

Service Rep just called said the codes indicated loose spark plugs! Bear in mind I just replaced those plugs and tightened them to 25 foot pounds! I asked her so the original plugs were loose too when I was having the idle problem and eventual misfire?

Tech allegedly reinstalled plugs that I had changed the night before and says the problem is gone. But they want to drive the car home overnight to make sure it is corrected. I told her the old plugs are on the passenger seat and they showed no sign of carbon around the outside edges to indicate they were loose and the shafts were clean...she said she could only tell me what the Tech said.

They are being real nice and I have been issued a loaner car but this in my limited mechanical knowledge does not make sense. Not to mention I personally installed the plugs using a torque wrench to the 25 required pounds.


What's everyone think?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Honestly, not much; if the problem is fixed after coming home from the dealer, and no cost involved, you're smooth sailing.
However, yes, it's a slightly disheartening to hear that the work you did didn't translate into a fixed problem.

Were the plugs you put in properly gapped? Did you secure all connections?

- Erik
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Yes, car ran perfect after I installed the new plugs(until it warmed up), yes, I properly gapped the plugs. The car was still misfiring after warming up( 20 minutes of driving)That should have eliminated the plugs as any issue. NO I am sure the dealership will charge me for tightening the plugs. In order for that to be the cause of the misfires then the original plugs must have been loose as well. I find that a little hard to imagine. We will see if that fixed the problem when I drive the 60 miles home from the dealership tommorrow...I told them the car runs great after sitting and cooling down...
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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I'm sorry they kept the car overnight to let a tech drive home to see if the problem occurs again. I will get a call tommorrow on its status. But as of right now they say its fixed because I did not tighten the plugs properly.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by alexsharp
I'm sorry they kept the car overnight to let a tech drive home to see if the problem occurs again. I will get a call tommorrow on its status. But as of right now they say its fixed because I did not tighten the plugs properly.
Not sure if these are the same symptoms, but a couple of months ago, my car stalled at a red light, and the yellow check engine light came on.

I called the dealer in the morning, and they had my Clubman flatbedded to the dealership.

They kept the car overnight, scanned the codes, replaced the intake cam shaft sensor and cable connector and cleared the codes.

BTW I have a '09 Justa Auto.
 
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