R55 Rough Idle after Highway Driving
Air is leaking into cylinder??That would be a red flag right there.It would also show up in a compression check. Find another MINI dealer or independent mechanic because there is obviously an air leak that needs to be addressed
According to them it is not showing up in the compression leak. But since they have checked everything else it must be a problem in the cylinder. My issue is the car drive fine at first. I think the cable on the cam sensor is getting hot and shorting. it is near the water pump as well, this only started after they replaced the water pump.
Alex,
What part of the world are you in? Hopefully someone will be able to recommend a reputable local shop that can actually diagnose and fix your problems instead of just throwing parts at it.
It honestly infuriates me that a lot of "mechanics" nowadays can't diagnose anything without the CEL.
What part of the world are you in? Hopefully someone will be able to recommend a reputable local shop that can actually diagnose and fix your problems instead of just throwing parts at it.
It honestly infuriates me that a lot of "mechanics" nowadays can't diagnose anything without the CEL.
Camshaft sensor fault cause
These faults can be caused by a faulty camshaft sensor or poor electrical connection.
The sensor may be damaged if the connector is loose, which could allow the blue sealing ring to be pushed out. If this occurs, the connector is no longer sealed against moisture.
Giving everyone an update. I was physically checking the engine(looking for the cam shaft sensor) when I checked the oil. The oil mark was an inch and a half over the max mark. I took it to a local shop and they confirmed that the car was at least two quarts over filled. We adjusted the oil and while the car still idles rough it is not as severe. The dealership is the last place oil was changed. I have made arrangements to have the car checked at an independent shop next Monday. I also emailed the service rep bout the oil and I am getting a written letter from the local shop owner documenting the oil overage. Any thoughts?
Giving everyone an update. I was physically checking the engine(looking for the cam shaft sensor) when I checked the oil. The oil mark was an inch and a half over the max mark. I took it to a local shop and they confirmed that the car was at least two quarts over filled. We adjusted the oil and while the car still idles rough it is not as severe. The dealership is the last place oil was changed. I have made arrangements to have the car checked at an independent shop next Monday. I also emailed the service rep bout the oil and I am getting a written letter from the local shop owner documenting the oil overage. Any thoughts?
You stated this oil change was done by MINI dealer.Document and report to S/A and then a follow up letter to MINI corporate because it could have been a catastrophic engine failure
Interesting read. I will be following this thread closely. I have a Clubman that also will not idle properly. It's gotten better after spending a LOT of time at the Dealership. But it's still shaking at idle whereas it use to jump around significantly and throw engine check lights. It all started after they changed the plugs because one of the plugs had the ceramic part broken. I'm wondering if it was off Cylinder #2?? I have to check my records. I've had both fuel pumps changed, water pump, thermostat, the walnut cylinder head treatment, etc, etc. All I know is if someone solves the this issue, they could make a LOT of money off the solution !! There are a boatload of Mini's out there that have idle problems.
This cam shaft sensor by the waterpump, anyone have a picture of this wire/sensor location??
This cam shaft sensor by the waterpump, anyone have a picture of this wire/sensor location??
Independent shop has had the car a week, same tests, no compression lost, Owner, who is also the head tech is suppose to call me today and recommend the next step. The customer service rep is hinting they too want to tear the top of the engine down. I asked him what could cause the miss, he did not know.
Have called my sales rep on my anticipated order of a countryman and put that purchase on hold. After I explained the issue that both his service department and the independent shop have no clue why my car is missing, he is suppose to talk with his manager and maybe get Mini involved. So far I am out about a $1000.00 dollars for the diagnostics and car rental and no one can tell me why the car starts to miss after warming up.
I mentioned to the independent shop if they had checked the cam shaft sensor, O2 sensors and the vanos solenoid but they brushed that off has not the problem. I then asked what specifically in the head or valves would cause the miss and I got we don't know. I don't know if I mentioned but the vanos solenoid was replaced August 2010 for the same symptoms but the code showed it was defective.
I did try calling mini customer service and was on hold for 20 minutes and then the call disconnected...
Have called my sales rep on my anticipated order of a countryman and put that purchase on hold. After I explained the issue that both his service department and the independent shop have no clue why my car is missing, he is suppose to talk with his manager and maybe get Mini involved. So far I am out about a $1000.00 dollars for the diagnostics and car rental and no one can tell me why the car starts to miss after warming up.
I mentioned to the independent shop if they had checked the cam shaft sensor, O2 sensors and the vanos solenoid but they brushed that off has not the problem. I then asked what specifically in the head or valves would cause the miss and I got we don't know. I don't know if I mentioned but the vanos solenoid was replaced August 2010 for the same symptoms but the code showed it was defective.
I did try calling mini customer service and was on hold for 20 minutes and then the call disconnected...
I'm riding in a similar boat and I've posted another thread about bad idle with my '08 Clubman S in the stock problems/issues forum. This morning it again popped a check engine light on the centre cluster. Codes pointed towards misfiring and carbon buildup. I've had both fuel pumps replaced, the water pump done, spark plugs done, timing chain, walnut blasting, many value cover gaskets replaced, reprogramming, thermostats replaced and on and on. It's a disaster. I've spent more time driving loaners then my own car in the last year. To the credit of the service department, they have been great in trying to get this fixed. But they are at a loss as well. Thank gawd I'm still under warrantee.
Well here is the answer, bad exhaust valve on the #2 cylinder. When the car heats up the valve is not closing properly and allowing excess air in the cylinder. Looking at 2k for a valve job on a car with only 65k.
Not sure, head has not been removed yet. But if it is only doing it after warmup I suspect is just sticking open after heating up. I am seriously considering doing the job myslef. Anyone used the Thumper performance heads? Any input on what manuel I should purchase, parts, specialized tools etc I will need? Is there any addtive I c
ould try to unstick the valve?
ould try to unstick the valve?
I'm surprised a valve would stick even when the valves springs are still intact... Those take a good amount of force to compress.
- Erik
- Erik
Picked up car, runs perfect! All valves on the head were warped as well. Mechanic stated he did not know how the car kept running or did not drop a valve. He said at some point the car had to have overheated to cause this damage.
Also order the Countryman.
Lesson 2, do not let your mini overheat!
I can now trade in my Clubman knowing I am not ripping off someone.
Also order the Countryman.
Lesson 2, do not let your mini overheat!
I can now trade in my Clubman knowing I am not ripping off someone.
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Marco Guardado
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Sep 15, 2015 01:22 AM



