I am new to NAM, I purchased a R52 a few months back, I always wanted one but it’s never been in the cards until my daughter need to learn to drive. One rule that has always been in my family was you had to learn on a stick shift, so I took the opportunity to get one.

Unfortunately I have had a few issues most I have corrected, recently replaced the belt, tensioner, idler pulley and thermostat. It was running great.

Inwas driving on the highway and experienced an almost complete loss of power, the car will rev but it’s so slow and has zero power.

Today I got my hand on a scanner, I found these codes. P1688
P0341
P0108

thanks.

Sean.

 

Does it have normal power on low revs? If yes under 3k, than the problem is associated with boost

 

Also please specify if it's an S or non-S version? Does it have a hood scoop?

 

The R52 S doesn't 'boost', it is supercharged, if this one is a S. There are dozens of things that can put it in to limp mode. Heck, mine went that-a-way at high altitude once.

 

It's a R52S I guess I should have said that, well the MAP, Camshaft Position sensor and Crankshaft pulley are all on the way. Hopefully the problem gets resolved this weekend.

 

Hope you get it resolved quickly. You've got THE best for enjoyable motoring hands down. By the way, one thing you absolutely want is a wind deflector. Post a comment looking for one and someone is sure to respond. I had to replace mine recently and with a hint from a NAM member, found one on ebay for somewhat less than half price over new. New they go for $500.

 

Mechanical superchargers most certainly make "boost."

 

Mixing metaphors, like tires, that feeling you get from working long hours in the hay field or boost, that surge from the turbocharger. SC's don't have boost guages. Get around a bunch of Gen 1 S guys and you'll never hear that term used but they will wax lovingly about the SC whine.

 

Got it. Mechanical superchargers create "whine" and turbos (which used to be called "turbosuperchargers") create ”boost." Both force feed the engine extra air.

But don't just take my word for it that your distinction here is idiosyncratic. Here's the Wikipedia article on superchargers:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercharger

The word "boost" appears 33 times (and none of them are to explain that they don't make it.)


My desk at my day job.

 

Well i changed the pulley the old seems like it has some play and must have been slipping but I can’t spin by hand. I changed the crankshaft sensor and the map but still no luck. I put the old map back in. I still have the codes even after clearing and reset, and car still have no power. I just remembered that I changed the thermostat before all of this stuff started and maybe I damaged the map grey vacuum line.
Ill post some pics and a video of what’s going on.

 

Air leaks anywhere in the intake system, can put it in limp mode. The boots on the intercooler, broken spring or popped vacuum pot on the BOV, air leak in the o-ring to the intake, problems with the throttle body (dirty, sticky, broken), bad pcv, cracked vacuum hoses, dirty maf, bad O2 sensors and a few other issues.
As you can see, many issues can put it into limp mode.
All are fixable and troubles should stop after the issue is dealt with. You and car, will be happy again!

 

My R52 had a similar issue....turned out to be a bad T-MAP sensor in the aluminum intake just above the radiator...

Be careful, the regular MAP and the T-MAP are similar in design, but very different in operation....they will attach in each others location, but they will NOT function correctly if installed in the wrong location

Bryan

 

So after now replacing the TMAP sensor that code is gone, I changed the camshaft position sensor but that code is still there.

Does any have a test for the camshaft sensor? Voltage, resistance? Anything please!!!


Thanks in advance.
Sean

 

x2

 

Does anyone know what could cause the camshaft position sensor to not function? I have tried 2 after the original started giving a p0341 code.

 

Since the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor are both inputs needed by the ECU, I have changed the crank sensor and walla, fixed!
One other point. Often cheap (not well made ones(both sensors) can be bad out of the box!

 

yes, as a now retired mechanic after 45 years in the trade.....you would not believe the number of defective parts right out of the box we got.....and what Wayne said could be possible..a bad crank sensor "COULD" be a problem as well.....I would get a volt meter and check for voltages at one of the three wires at each sensor....one should show about 5 volts with key on....

Do you have a scanner that reads live data with engine cranking? You should see a RPM reading on the scanner for both cam & crank sensors.....and one could be shorted out causing the other not to work.....

Bryan

 

I ran the car and checked.

Battery voltage on the first wire, ground on the last.

And a varying voltage on the signal wire.

I’m stumped, the only thing left is the most far fetched.

Could the the car have jumped a tooth on the cam gears?

 

Quote: Could the the car have jumped a tooth on the cam gears? :End quote

Very doubtful, this is the issue. Besides it would have made ugly sounds if it jumped.
If I am remembering correctly the 2.5 volts are low, but I guess there is a possible reason for that. ( I was pretty sure around 5+ volts is what I read, the last time I checked one.)
Since you changed the cam senor, has it run?

 

I have put a new sensor and swapped one from someone which worked before, so I can’t see three being bad. I really love this little car, but more importantly my daughter loves her car! I have to figure it out. Thanks everyone who has tried to help.

 

The 5v reference signal is low at 2.5 volts....something is drawing the power down.....leave the meter connected and start unplugging engine sensors until the 5 volts shows back up on the meter....when that happens, you found your problem

Bryan