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Hi all, first post.
I have an 05 Cooper Convertible that I've had for about two months now. ((I love it! My first Mini died a horrible, wet death)).
Anyways, about three days ago my car started making a HORRIBLE whistling noise. It only happens when the soft top is closed and when I'm driving over 40 mph. It SEEMS to be coming from the drivers side, right above the sun visor. There's no leaks in the rain or anything like that. it also seems like the roof is a little bit loose on the left side compared to the right (a little wiggly). Is there an easy fix for that that WON'T involve an expensive trip to the dealership?
My only thoughts would be that your sunroof section might have been knocked out of allignment. I haven't heard of this happening without a cable snap, but there are exceptions to every rule.
Does your roof meet the headliner evenly when you close the sunroof section?
If not, the midroof motor might have slipped a notch or two on the driver's side cable.
If that is what happened, you will need to remove the midroof motor & using a flat head screwdriver to tweek the cables (Push the driver's side forward or pull the passenger's back) untill everything is paralell again. It might take some trial & error to get it back exactly.
Everything seems even when open and closed, we only noticed the wiggle when we removed the plastic pieces on the side bar spots ((Forgive me not knowing the technical terms!)). It opens and closes completely without any problem as well.
I'm taking it into the dealership today to find out why my service engine light is on ((thanks to the beauty of BMW, we can't get it checked at Autozone)), so I might ask them what they know about that, and just not have them service it.
I'll have my fiance try to tweak the cables later though, that sounds like a reasonable fix.
We ended up doing the simplest thing we could think of (and cheapest, considering Mini). We bought a roll of weather stripping and lined the roof opening (over the windshield). It's not the prettiest fix but it sure as hell beats the whistle
My first post! Just got my car and love it! Regret not buying one sooner.
My only beef is the same whistle that RikoTeki describes. His post was 6 years ago...
Has anyone come up with a solution that doesn't involve adding weatherstrip? I have to take the car on a 400 mile trip and I'm using painter's tape until I can get it fixed properly.
My first post! Just got my car and love it! Regret not buying one sooner.
My only beef is the same whistle that RikoTeki describes. His post was 6 years ago...
Has anyone come up with a solution that doesn't involve adding weatherstrip? I have to take the car on a 400 mile trip and I'm using painter's tape until I can get it fixed properly.
Welcome!
Introduce yourself in the 1st gear forum and post up some pics. We love pics and storys about mini's.
You don't need to take it very far apart, just take the motor out to adjust the cables. Be careful putting the motor back in, those bolts thread into aluminum and strip out easy. Don't ask me how I know.
You don't need to take it very far apart, just take the motor out to adjust the cables. Be careful putting the motor back in, those bolts thread into aluminum and strip out easy. Don't ask me how I know.
Tim - thanks for the fast, helpful reply! I'll give it a try. I will definitely post some photos of my car!
We ended up doing the simplest thing we could think of (and cheapest, considering Mini). We bought a roll of weather stripping and lined the roof opening (over the windshield). It's not the prettiest fix but it sure as hell beats the whistle
Best of luck
I had a similar issue with my hardtop. It was the windshield seal. Replaced the windshield (not expensive), no more issues. Some insurance companies will cover it with no deductible as it is a safety issue.
On the convertible, make sure the noise is not coming from the drivers window where it meets the windshield and top. Push against the top forward portion and see if the noise changes. If so, rubber seal or window needs some adjustment (there is a pocket on the outside corner of the window seal which can help with that adjustment).
I just bought my best friends 2005 Mini convertible. He bought it new in 2005. The arms did not latch properly, and he always drove it with the top up. I had the dealer put new arms on and repair the top. That is when the whistling started! Took me 5 months to figure out what was wrong. The top extends about a half inch too far and pushes the windshield molding away from the inside molding, creating the whistle. Push up on the upper molding that the sun visor is screwed to! The whistling will stop! If you bump the retraction button quickly, the top backs up about half an inch and the whistling stops! Not the perfect fix but I can live with it!!!
Yep, i am here. The final position when you close it needs to be adjusted. You can do this by closing the top all the way, or as much as it can be. Pop the roof motor cover off. Remove the couple screws and pop the drive motor out. Then with your hand push the top forward a hair to it seal perfect on both sides. There will still be a small gap between the rooftop and the upper trim. But not on the top and the seal itself. Once its snug pop the motor back in. Dependant on how far its off. It can be only a couple teeth jump on that green cable in this link, that it actually moved. Then once the motor is in you are done.
I developed a whistling overnight in my 06 Mini S convertible. Sounded like a tea kettle on high heat! I confirmed that it was coming from between where the top seals against the windshield. This is how I nailed down the location and what I did to stop it. I drove down the highway while making a video with my phone to record where the sound was loudest. I placed the phone near the area I believed the sound originated and then moved the phone back and forth along the windshield/top area and around the side window area. I then watched the video to determine where the sound was loudest.
I discovered that the sound was loudest in an area above the right side sun visor. I open edthe sun roof portion to inspect the seal area. I discovered a short section of the windshield seal that was slightly pushed in. It was very subtle but noticeable. The same area on the left side was completely smooth across the seal.
I used a wide, flat, plastic trim tool, available in a set at Harbor Freight for about $5, to gently pry the seal out away from the windshield frame. You have to insert the trim tool between the metal, painted windshield frame and the seal. Pry against the frame, gently but with some force to move the seal out and back to a flat condition. It doesn’t take much. You should see the slight depression disappear. You may have to look at the seal from inside sitting in the vehicle. Sit in the seat opposite of where the depression is located so that you can more easily visualize the difference between the depression and the seal immediately to the left and right of the depression.
I immediately test drove the vehicle and no more whistle!
I developed a whistling overnight in my 06 Mini S convertible. Sounded like a tea kettle on high heat! I confirmed that it was coming from between where the top seals against the windshield. This is how I nailed down the location and what I did to stop it. I drove down the highway while making a video with my phone to record where the sound was loudest. I placed the phone near the area I believed the sound originated and then moved the phone back and forth along the windshield/top area and around the side window area. I then watched the video to determine where the sound was loudest.
I discovered that the sound was loudest in an area above the right side sun visor. I open edthe sun roof portion to inspect the seal area. I discovered a short section of the windshield seal that was slightly pushed in. It was very subtle but noticeable. The same area on the left side was completely smooth across the seal.
I used a wide, flat, plastic trim tool, available in a set at Harbor Freight for about $5, to gently pry the seal out away from the windshield frame. You have to insert the trim tool between the metal, painted windshield frame and the seal. Pry against the frame, gently but with some force to move the seal out and back to a flat condition. It doesn’t take much. You should see the slight depression disappear. You may have to look at the seal from inside sitting in the vehicle. Sit in the seat opposite of where the depression is located so that you can more easily visualize the difference between the depression and the seal immediately to the left and right of the depression.
I immediately test drove the vehicle and no more whistle!
this is extremely helpful. iv had this issue since i got the car a year ago, will check when i get home tonight. thank you!
Moving the s al slightly didn’t take any time at all and it doesn’t ruin the looks and maintains proper operation. Whistling noises occur because of small cracks. The higher pitched the noise the smaller the crack. Just like whistling with your mouth. 😗
I noticed on mine that that “carrier” along the front was looser than the passenger side, as it seemed to missing a plastic slide, ( looks like a triangle fixture) this seems to allow it not to be fully closed. Though no water leak.
I just wanted to update this thread since I just finished fixing a whistling R52 convertible roof at speed. The left side sliding roof mechanism has 2 guides that guide the sliding roof open and closed. The top guide on that side was missing, so the roof will move up and down, and the roof is forced upward by wind when above 40 mph. I could not find a source for that upper guide so I made one out of plastic. You need something that will fit under with enough force to push the roof up and hold it with no play up and down. Then it needs to grab and be guided by the tab that guide attaches on. Overall the item needs to fit into the narrow channel it moves into when the roof is closed. It also needs to allow the guide to be bottomed out in that narrow channel when fully closed. I had to continuously remove the guide, modify it, reinstall it, retest, and repeat many times before it proved successful. Now we see how long it lasts. I do not have a picture because I was in the fight to get it to work, and after the last installation, I was not removing it again. I just wanted to share where the source of that noise comes from, and that something can be done to fix it. Also if you buy used assemblies, make sure those 2 guides are present. Many times the upper guide is missing. You cannot tell on the complete assemblies, because they are hidden until you can expose the area where they are located.
