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I noticed my belt will squeak on cold start sometimes, and then I found out my belt looks like this:
I looked at the records by previous owners of my car, and it shows the belt was replaced @ 114396km about 4 and half years ago, and my current mileage is at 138236km. The harmonic balancer was also replaced about 7 months ago.
Now I'm wondering what caused the belt to wear like this. I checked the belt while the engine was running, the tensioner wasn't making loud noises and the belt wasn't flopping around.
Is this wear pattern on the belt caused by the idler pully or the tensioner? Or it's just the belt is too old?
Last edited by _louis.se_; Mar 31, 2024 at 02:32 AM.
Reason: Add some details
Previous owner didn’t change the belt with the harmonic balancer for some reason. Good to know the belt is fine. Thanks!
However, I did find out that my car may still have original belt tensioner. I’ll change that and the idler pulley with belt in the short future.
Currently going through the same process.
Your belt looks similar to mine with the indented ridge running down the middle.
I just upgraded my crank pulley/harmonic balancer to a fluid filled one since I've had to replace the rubber core OEM 4 or 5 times since I've owned the car for 20.7years.
I change my belt every 30k mi and just ordered a new belt tensioner. My current tensioner was replaced about 30k mi also and the damper bushings are beginning to wear out/deteriorate.
It might be prudent to change out your belt and associated components/pulleys as well.
Almost nothing worse than throwing a belt or idler pulley - leaving you stranded waiting for a flatbed.
Currently going through the same process.
Your belt looks similar to mine with the indented ridge running down the middle.
I just upgraded my crank pulley/harmonic balancer to a fluid filled one since I've had to replace the rubber core OEM 4 or 5 times since I've owned the car for 20.7years.
I change my belt every 30k mi and just ordered a new belt tensioner. My current tensioner was replaced about 30k mi also and the damper bushings are beginning to wear out/deteriorate.
It might be prudent to change out your belt and associated components/pulleys as well.
Almost nothing worse than throwing a belt or idler pulley - leaving you stranded waiting for a flatbed.
Best of luck!
I'll replace the belt tensioner and idler pully with INA brand ones because I heard this brand is supposed to be an OE brand. Since to access the belt tensioner, I need to remove the passenger side liquid-filled motor mount, I'll also replace that with Corteco ones, maybe even the lower motor mount with Vaico ones. (I know Powerflex bushings are going to last a lot longer, but I want to keep my car as stock as possible.)
i don't think you need to remove the motor mount to replace the tensioner, maybe it makes it easier? i have only done it once. i wouldn't say doing the belt tensioner would make anything easier on doing the upper motor mount, either.
however, if you want to keep your car stock, i have a powertorque (oreilly brand) replacement lower mount that i would send you for cheap. i only used it a couple hundred miles until i replaced it with an upgraded mount.
i don't think you need to remove the motor mount to replace the tensioner, maybe it makes it easier? i have only done it once. i wouldn't say doing the belt tensioner would make anything easier on doing the upper motor mount, either.
however, if you want to keep your car stock, i have a powertorque (oreilly brand) replacement lower mount that i would send you for cheap. i only used it a couple hundred miles until i replaced it with an upgraded mount.
Yes, move out the upper motor mount does make it easier to remove the belt tensioner, I saw couple of tutorials did that. Since I’ll remove the mount, why not replace it at same time?
Thanks for offering the lower motor mount. I’m really appreciated. However, the shipping fee from US to Canada is pretty high and I’d rather not to deal with that.
A lesson I learned, is when you replace the belt, also be prepared to replace the Idle pulley. The pulley face wears and so does the bearing, a worn pulley can drastically shorten the life of a belt.
The Harmonic Balancer has its own replacement requirements due to the rubber insert.
Engine and transmission mounts wear as well, but you have to look at the cost of doing them at the same time vs doing them when they parish.
Cost is always a concern of mine, I have four (the three R53s and the R52 to constantly maintain) but in the long run, I find it better to spend a little in preventive maintenance than spending a lot in repair maintenance.
And don't get me started about Wheel Bearing Hubs ...
A lesson I learned, is when you replace the belt, also be prepared to replace the Idle pulley. The pulley face wears and so does the bearing, a worn pulley can drastically shorten the life of a belt.
The Harmonic Balancer has its own replacement requirements due to the rubber insert.
Engine and transmission mounts wear as well, but you have to look at the cost of doing them at the same time vs doing them when they parish.
Cost is always a concern of mine, I have four (the three R53s and the R52 to constantly maintain) but in the long run, I find it better to spend a little in preventive maintenance than spending a lot in repair maintenance.
And don't get me started about Wheel Bearing Hubs ...
Motor On!
I really appreciate your advice! The belt tensioner and idler pully are already on the way (I already got a new belt).
The harmonic balancer was replaced not too long time ago by the previous owner, I'll check it when I'm doing the belt job to see what kind/brand&model the harmonic balancer is. If it's conventional (rubber type), I will replace it with ATI ones in the future(I heard ATI has a good reputation), but in later future.
For motor mounts, now I think about it, the hydraulic mount was been replaced because that area has a huge black residue mark (I didn't know what that was, but now I know, AND HOW DO I CLEAN THAT OFF?), and that mount is not collapsing at the moment, I may leave it as at the moment as well as the lower mount(I think will replace that at same time when I lower the subframe to replace the lower control arm bushings.)
I totally agree with you that spending a little on preventive maintenance is better than spending a lot more on repair maintenance.
It’s really hard to clean off the hydraulic fluid stain or anything else on the paint under the hood, at least without removing some paint too. There’s no clear on the paint under the hood or under the hatch and the color just wipes off, even with mild cleaners. I would test the cleaner in a hidden area if blotchy or missing paint spots will bother you.
It’s really hard to clean off the hydraulic fluid stain or anything else on the paint under the hood, at least without removing some paint too. There’s no clear on the paint under the hood or under the hatch and the color just wipes off, even with mild cleaners. I would test the cleaner in a hidden area if blotchy or missing paint spots will bother you.
That’s a bit unfortunate to hear but thanks for the advice!
