R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Potential Water Pump Leak

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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 09:06 AM
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Potential Water Pump Leak

Unsure if this is the right location for this, but figured it might be seen by more folks in this section.

I recently had a coolant system flush on my 2006 JCW GP at the dealership. All things have been well but then I started noticed a liquid on the floor in my garage. It is definitely coolant and looks like maybe it is leaking at the water pump. Any chance that getting the system flushed and this leak could be related? I know my GP is 17 years old at this point, and parts wear out, but the car only has 11k on the odometer. I did the best I could to snap some pics of the only location I can see any liquid. Does seems like much in the picture compared to what I have seen on the floor of my garage.

Any ideas? Should I call the dealership back up, or just take it to my INDY?

TIA!

-Andy




 
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 02:06 PM
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Andy-You would think that a MINI Dealership would've pressure tested the coolant system after performing the flush and fill. Perhaps you should question them on this. Suggest you obtain a coolant pressure tester, perhaps a loaner from an Advance Auto or Autozone. Hopefully, it'll have a Euro adapter or, if you happen to have converted to an AL coolant recovery tank with a standard cap, it'll make life simpler. Applying pressure will confirm the location of the leak. Granted, sometimes flushing the system can cause premature failure of gaskets, hoses or fittings. Is the coolant at the proper level in the recovery tank or is it showing a loss?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 03:01 PM
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Don't you just love it when you take your car to the dealership for a repair and almost immediately you have something else that needs to be repaired? Or, is my naturally suspicious nature out of line here?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 03:28 PM
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Out of curiosity, when was the last time you changed the coolant?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 04:58 PM
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Andy, did you see this one?: No-pressure Coolant leak Symptom - North American Motoring
 
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Andy-You would think that a MINI Dealership would've pressure tested the coolant system after performing the flush and fill. Perhaps you should question them on this. Suggest you obtain a coolant pressure tester, perhaps a loaner from an Advance Auto or Autozone. Hopefully, it'll have a Euro adapter or, if you happen to have converted to an AL coolant recovery tank with a standard cap, it'll make life simpler. Applying pressure will confirm the location of the leak. Granted, sometimes flushing the system can cause premature failure of gaskets, hoses or fittings. Is the coolant at the proper level in the recovery tank or is it showing a loss?
While I trust this dealership, I have never had them do service on the MINI, only my wife's Porsche, but that is down at the Porsche service. I agree, you would have thought they would have preformed a pressure test, but I am uncertain if that was included in the cost. I mean the invoice says nothing about "pressure check" after refilling the system. I have not converted to this - https://www.waymotorworks.com/pressu...k-r53-r52.html but it is on my list. The coolant in the recovery tank is showing at MAX, as I don't drive the car that much, I'm sure how much I have lost, but I'm guessing not much. I'm just uncertain if I go back to the dealership, or my INDY, or dive in myself.

Originally Posted by cooper48
Don't you just love it when you take your car to the dealership for a repair and almost immediately you have something else that needs to be repaired? Or, is my naturally suspicious nature out of line here?
I wondered the same thing, but considering coolant flushes annoy me because I always seem to have an issue getting the air bubbles all out, I figured why not leave it to the pros.

Originally Posted by deepgrey
Out of curiosity, when was the last time you changed the coolant?
I had the coolant system flushed b/c I was unsure when it was done last. I bought the car several years ago with 5,000 miles on it. It currently has 11k and figured it should be done every two years, it was about finding the time to get it into the dealer.

Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Stan, I had not seen this thread, but makes me wonder if that could be the issue. On the day I drive it, I drive it to two usually, which is about 25 miles one way, it sits outside all day and then I drive back home another 25 miles and park it in the garage. Seems like it is leaking out overnight.

-Andy

 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 05:11 AM
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Andy-One other thing...You mention that the reservoir level is at "MAX". The correct level should be where the coolant is just at the level of those "S" molded configurations in the bottom of the tank. There's a possibility that the system is just "puking" the excess until it gets to the correct level. Use a turkey baster to remove the excess and see if the leaking stops.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Andy-One other thing...You mention that the reservoir level is at "MAX". The correct level should be where the coolant is just at the level of those "S" molded configurations in the bottom of the tank. There's a possibility that the system is just "puking" the excess until it gets to the correct level. Use a turkey baster to remove the excess and see if the leaking stops.
Stan - You have a picture where the correct level should be? Are you still using the molded plastic OE tank on your GP, or have you switched over to the tank that WAY sells?

Thanks,
Andy
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 08:01 AM
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Andy, I'm running a CANTON on the GP but I just took a pic of the original recovery tank that shows the ribs inside. I have found that the coolant should be level with the top of those ribs, no higher.
Regards,
Stan


 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Andy, I'm running a CANTON on the GP but I just took a pic of the original recovery tank that shows the ribs inside. I have found that the coolant should be level with the top of those ribs, no higher.
Regards,
Stan

Stan -

Thank you for the pic, good to know that you can only see the ribs from inside the tank. I will remove some fluid and see if that changes things, especially give I'm at the MAX level, it must have been even higher than that before. If this resolves my issues, I'm moving to the Canton tank as well. I'll keep you posted.

-Andy
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 10:59 AM
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Check the T fitting, they are know to age and crack when touched. Maybe they bumped it?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Check the T fitting, they are know to age and crack when touched. Maybe they bumped it?
Is the T fitting you are referring to near the water pump? If so, I checked all the hoses and couldn't find any of them "wet or damp" at all.

-Andy
 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 07:26 AM
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Hello,

Thats the T where the 3 hoses connect.

 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Hello,

Thats the T where the 3 hoses connect.

That's what I thought you were referring to, but I have not seen any moisture or wetness at that location. I have checked multiple time.

-Andy
 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 11:52 AM
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Ok, then it has to be the thermostat housing. They are plastic and known to crack. Or that water pump. I would clean up the residue and take it for a quick drive or let warm up in the drive way then inspect with a UV light or flashlight.

 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Ok, then it has to be the thermostat housing. They are plastic and known to crack. Or that water pump. I would clean up the residue and take it for a quick drive or let warm up in the drive way then inspect with a UV light or flashlight.
I have let it run in my garage for 45 mins, and those pics I posted above is what I got, which wasn't much at all. The tank was definitely filled to the MAX, which means it was above the MAX level so I'm not sure if it was just spitting out fluid b/c it was so full? I plan to drive the car tomorrow to work, so we'll see what happens.

-Andy
 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 01:44 PM
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TY @NC TRACKRAT for bringing me to this thread. @Andy I'm having the same issue as you and interested in what you find. I just discovered this a few days back, but each time I discover it, the car has been moved. Does my issue align with yours?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-sitting.html
 
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GotGrit
TY @NC TRACKRAT for bringing me to this thread. @Andy I'm having the same issue as you and interested in what you find. I just discovered this a few days back, but each time I discover it, the car has been moved. Does my issue align with yours?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-sitting.html
Well, sort of. My car parks in the same place every evening, but when I let it run for 30-45 mins at a time, I see a slight drip where it looks like the water pump is at. I feel like after the evening cools, it is leaking out while I sleep at night. It's annoying to say the least. I'll keep you posted, as I'm driving it tomorrow and removed about 1-2" of fluid from the coolant tank first.

-Andy

 
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Old Nov 11, 2023 | 10:47 AM
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Those pictures show one of the 3 plastic tees in your cooling system. Those are in addition to the plastic thermostat housing and the plastic coupler at the upper radiator hose.

Knowing what I know now and having gone through it, I would at least replace all of the 17 year old plastic and even better, replace with metal pieces that are available instead of plastic.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2023 | 01:20 PM
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To further ghostwrench's comment; You may consider replacing the plastic connectors with these in a comment I suggested in another thread/post.
Just a suggestion.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2023 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ghostwrench
Those pictures show one of the 3 plastic tees in your cooling system. Those are in addition to the plastic thermostat housing and the plastic coupler at the upper radiator hose.

Knowing what I know now and having gone through it, I would at least replace all of the 17 year old plastic and even better, replace with metal pieces that are available instead of plastic.
Looks like the car is still leaking, though it is minimal. I'm going to call my INDY this week to get a pressure test done.

I'm in a middle of a master bathroom remodel, so I can't really worry about his on top of that. I am going to suggest the brass replacements as perhaps that might be a better way to go.

Wonder if it worth replacing the hoses "while they are in there"?

-Andy
 
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Old Nov 14, 2023 | 06:40 AM
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From: Under the car. As per normal.
Wonder if it worth replacing the hoses "while they are in there"?
Yes. Also consider oil cooler / gaskets, radiator / fan resistor / big hoses, any AC work.. Easier still if the subframe is down for other work - clutch, suspension refresh etc.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0237
 

Last edited by Daftlad; Nov 14, 2023 at 06:47 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2023 | 03:18 PM
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Most Autoparts carry a special UV Dye made by InterDynamics that you add to the radiator and the leak will show up in as a fluorescent lime green color ; works every time. Also if you replace the waterpump make sure you buy OEM…

 
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 08:07 AM
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Timely thread. My kid’s R53 is experiencing the same symptom of coolant loss over night. First replaced the thermostat with an Aluminum version from ECS a couple of weeks ago. That was a quick and easy swap, but did not solve the coolant leak. The leak was a trail of coolant about center of block and down front of block and then down off oil pan.

Yesterday, since the car was down due to the well known exhaust manifold crack-in-two failure and new o-rings and a water pump flange being delivered, I tore down the front end and found there was weeping from the flange due to a torn o-ring where the water pump inserts the flange. Today, I’ll finish up putting the front end back together and see what leaks next.

Oh, and taking the exhaust manifold out was a piece of cake since it was in two pieces!
 
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