R50/53 Drain back valve broken... run it?
#1
Drain back valve broken... run it?
The drain back valve plunger broke while doing an oil/filter service.
Two little **** snapped off and it doesn't hold in place anymore.
I've got an 160km round trip I need to make tomorrow.
What's the purpose of this plunger?
To stop oil starvation on startup?
What if I only have two starts during the trip?
Is the wear limited to start up?
Thanks for helping me avoiding running a shittier vehicle for the trip tomorrow :p
Two little **** snapped off and it doesn't hold in place anymore.
I've got an 160km round trip I need to make tomorrow.
What's the purpose of this plunger?
To stop oil starvation on startup?
What if I only have two starts during the trip?
Is the wear limited to start up?
Thanks for helping me avoiding running a shittier vehicle for the trip tomorrow :p
#4
Side note: I would recommend pulling the housing and the oil cooler to remove the old plunger and replace it with a new one. When mine was out there were little plastic tabs that were "missing". After several flushes, I found the "missing" plastic that had been hidden (likely lodged) in an inside corner of these parts. While you have them off, it's a good time to install new oil filer housing gasket and new oil cooler gaskets as well.
And since you'll be in the general vicinity, you might want to consider a new timing chain tensioner if you've not already replaced. It's easier to do with the housing out of the way.
And since you'll be in the general vicinity, you might want to consider a new timing chain tensioner if you've not already replaced. It's easier to do with the housing out of the way.
#5
Join Date: Nov 2021
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Can someone explain to me why it's a danger only at idle?
It's also made out of hearty government-mandated recycled German plastic, and we all know how well that holds up over time (see: coolant expansion tank, brake/clutch reservoir, heater hose connectors, supercharger intake plenum, clutch master / slave cylinders, vacuum and clutch lines and connectors, etc) . Below is a link to the 3D printed replacement solution mentioned above which so far seems to be well received, performing (and surviving) as advertised. It should be noted that before its invention, and even now, a factory drain back valve wasn't / isn't available as a separate part and when it broke it necessitated replacing the whole filter housing assembly to the tune of around $400, once again because BMW.
Here is the current solution; a bargain at $29, would overnight it if you have time before your trip:
https://www.outmotoring.com/MINI-Coo...rep_12345.html
Last edited by Daftlad; 11-06-2023 at 06:26 AM.
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Here2Go (11-07-2023)
#6
L
O
L
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I was banging my head thinking why wouldn't it just be a problem on startup?
I've bought that part you linked.
I'm up in Canada, so no overnight shipping.
The closest to that is 2-3 days and $56usd just for the shipping.
So I ended up paying for the cheapest shipping and bought the Dorman 904-261 part locally.
Gonna try it out, and if it doesn't work, I've got the 3D printed part on the way.
O
L
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I was banging my head thinking why wouldn't it just be a problem on startup?
I've bought that part you linked.
I'm up in Canada, so no overnight shipping.
The closest to that is 2-3 days and $56usd just for the shipping.
So I ended up paying for the cheapest shipping and bought the Dorman 904-261 part locally.
Gonna try it out, and if it doesn't work, I've got the 3D printed part on the way.
#7
Yep dorman part is shared.
Make sure you get pieces out that broke off.
Make sure you get pieces out that broke off.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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