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You should figure out why it is running rich and fix that before doing anything else.
id start by looking at the FPR line elbow to see if it is defunct or off. Also check your IC boots, especially if they are aftermarket.
I’m sorry, I should have been more clear. I thought a car with these mods would typically run rich. The ecu /stock S injectors are basically maxed to compensate for the 17-18% more boost I’m jamming through the motor.
Im running a stock exhaust with an axle back, that’s quieter, so I’m wondering if it’s worth it to just get injectors and a tune. This is my first mini.
I can put a header on the car but I want to keep my cat so I can pass emissions so I dunno if it’s worth getting a header or not,
I just went through the supercharger, replaced vacuum lines, gaskets, oil, etc. so I think I’m good there.
I do have a set of DDM intercooler boots, and I think I’m gonna order another stock set of boots. I don’t think they are leaking, but I don’t really like them either.
As suggested above by other member it would be wise to start off by trying to verify why the car is running rich . If it is overly rich it will start to lead to other issues . Damaged catylic , fouled o2 sensor, diluted oil viscosity.
Perhaps you may want to start with an afr guage and see just " how rich " you may be running first.
Are you running atock 330 injectors or 380 jcw injectors?
The OP stated that he's running the stock injectors. Based on the information given, the car should be running on the lean side. Take an extended drive at steady throttle, then let the car cool off, remove your spark plugs to read whether running rich or lean. I'd also be inclined to look for an unmetered air leak. If it's a high mileage car, have you changed your fuel filter?
Last edited by NC TRACKRAT; Oct 5, 2023 at 07:05 AM.
The OP stated that he's running the stock injectors. Based on the information given, the car should be running on the lean side. Take an extended drive at steady throttle, then let the car cool off, remove your spark plugs to read whether running rich or lean. I'd also be inclined to look for an unmetered air leak. If it's a high mileage car, have you changed your fuel filter?
Its 190k. It backfires a lot if I'm on the throttle at all when I clutch in. The car sounds like it has a burble tune almost. Its possible I have a leak at the aftermarket boots I guess. I get miss fire codes occasionally.
The injectors are stock S injectors as far as I know. I haven't changed the fuel filter.
The car runs decent and pulls but its definitely running rich. It backfires a lot and occasionally it will sound like a machine gun.
These cars are built running (somewhat) rich. Also hot. Without an AFR meter, OBDII set watching short and long term fuel trim or the exhaust reeks of unburned fuel, not sure how a rich condition could be objectively evaluated. Backfiring is an indication, but so far only one.
Take an extended drive at steady throttle, then let the car cool off, remove your spark plugs to read whether running rich or lean. I'd also be inclined to look for an unmetered air leak.
This. Also check fuel pressure at the rail; should be about 50 lbs at idle. If it's high, could be the fuel pressure regulator; if low then either FPR, restriction in system (filter) or the pump is going (fairly frequent failure item after 100K). Could also be bad gas / water in it , so maybe put in some water chaser like Heet at next fill up.
Maybe also look at ignition. These cars hate hate hate crappy worn ignition hardware. If they look old / worn anyway, maybe replace plugs/wires/coil regardless and see if that helps / clears up the problem. It did on my car recently; flashing SES, P0300, bad hesitation / misfire under load. Put in the new stuff, car runs like it never happened.
These cars are built running (somewhat) rich. Also hot. Without an AFR meter, OBDII set watching short and long term fuel trim or the exhaust reeks of unburned fuel, not sure how a rich condition could be objectively evaluated. Backfiring is an indication, but so far only one.
This. Also check fuel pressure at the rail; should be about 50 lbs at idle. If it's high, could be the fuel pressure regulator; if low then either FPR, restriction in system (filter) or the pump is going (fairly frequent failure item after 100K). Could also be bad gas / water in it , so maybe put in some water chaser like Heet at next fill up.
Maybe also look at ignition. These cars hate hate hate crappy worn ignition hardware. If they look old / worn anyway, maybe replace plugs/wires/coil regardless and see if that helps / clears up the problem. It did on my car recently; flashing SES, P0300, bad hesitation / misfire under load. Put in the new stuff, car runs like it never happened.
Well, now that you said that, maybe its running normalish. I replaced the plugs with NGKS one step colder. I also replaced the wires. Maybe I need to do the MSD box as well. It looks old.
When I started the car today, I could hear it fumbling at idle a little bit, and then I got a cel again. Probably the missfire one but I'll check it and report back.
If you. Have MSD anything on it, take it off and replace with stock.
The ignition box that powers the plug wires is msd brand. It’s been like that since I’ve bought it. I’ll check my codes today and maybe start with replacing that.
If you. Have MSD anything on it, take it off and replace with stock.
The ignition box that powers the plug wires is msd brand.
MSD does have a somewhat mixed reputation. To be fair mine was a stocker, probably the factory original. 71K miles, daily commute-a-beat-down, a few choice extreme winters and summers, that strange corrosion issue on the #3 terminal - yeah it was time. Ahh, the power of procrastination...
Would go with OEM quality, which is to say a part that is made by the original equipment manufacturer, but may or may not be specifically labeled as a "Genuine MINI" part (with its customary upscaled price). Same factory, often same part, without the BMW/MINI stamp. Example: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/12137510738/
Note the OEM flag. Most of the vendors will include this indicator to let you know it's from the same manufacturer that supplies the BMW/MINI factory with their parts. Also nothing wrong with going 'Genuine MINI' (except crankshaft pulleys) other than having to pay a premium for it.
Would go with OEM quality, which is to say a part that is made by the original equipment manufacturer, but may or may not be specifically labeled as a "Genuine MINI" part (with its customary upscaled price). Same factory, often same part, without the BMW/MINI stamp. Example: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/12137510738/
Note the OEM flag. Most of the vendors will include this indicator to let you know it's from the same manufacturer that supplies the BMW/MINI factory with their parts. Also nothing wrong with going 'Genuine MINI' (except crankshaft pulleys) other than having to pay a premium for it.
Man, that would have saved me a lot of money on the parts I've been throwing at my BMW 330i over the past couple years. Thanks for the knowledge.
I looked at my injectors today, and they looked like the stock ones in the pic. A couple of them are rusty. I noticed some oil residue on my intercooler coupler, so I ordered some OEM rubber boots because these DDM ones I have suck. I also noticed that my plug for my ignition box doesn't have the little red locking thing on it. It broke off or something. It still has the black tab that kinda holds it on though...this car.
I'm going to add an additional suggestion to my first post. When you pull the spark plugs, run a compression test and, if you can, a leakdown test. This will give you a baseline for engine "health". It's like an taking an EKG for humans.
I'm going to add an additional suggestion to my first post. When you pull the spark plugs, run a compression test and, if you can, a leakdown test. This will give you a baseline for engine "health". It's like an taking an EKG for humans.
It's got compression, I daily this piece of junk, she makes power. I might do one just to see what she's got left in her at 190k.
Tigger is setup similarly to yours, 15% underdrive, 2% overdrive, JCW CAI, M7 Intercooler boots, Factory LSD, Milltek rear exhaust. Bosch 380cc Injectors and JCW tune and an aftermarket IC were my last upgrades and they did (according to my butt dyno) make a difference in acceleration from a standing start, as well as raising my rev limit (I think). He's at 197k+ and still has the original SC, valves, head etc. I AX him in the summers and have been using him as a DD for years.
I changed my fuel pump 2 summers ago when it wouldn't start when the cabin was hot (not when the engine was hot-go figure), it would also sometimes try to stall out at speed coming up the canyons, discussed it with my MINI tech and he also stated that the aftermarket coil packs didn't have the high rate recovery speed that the OEMs did, meaning that at high RPMs they can fail to get a full spark charge to the plugs.
I'm not sure if this helps at all or not, but FWIW, there it is.
Tigger is setup similarly to yours, 15% underdrive, 2% overdrive, JCW CAI, M7 Intercooler boots, Factory LSD, Milltek rear exhaust. Bosch 380cc Injectors and JCW tune and an aftermarket IC were my last upgrades and they did (according to my butt dyno) make a difference in acceleration from a standing start, as well as raising my rev limit (I think). He's at 197k+ and still has the original SC, valves, head etc. I AX him in the summers and have been using him as a DD for years.
I changed my fuel pump 2 summers ago when it wouldn't start when the cabin was hot (not when the engine was hot-go figure), it would also sometimes try to stall out at speed coming up the canyons, discussed it with my MINI tech and he also stated that the aftermarket coil packs didn't have the high rate recovery speed that the OEMs did, meaning that at high RPMs they can fail to get a full spark charge to the plugs.
I'm not sure if this helps at all or not, but FWIW, there it is.
I appreciate it. Raising the redline? That poor s/c is just pumping heat out over 6k I thought I read with the 2% overdrive. Anyway, I put the coil pack in and it’s running about the same but feels slightly more crisp and like I gained 10hp.
It drives “good enough” that I’m not super worried about it, but it’s been a pain trying to get this car sorted. I’ll get it there eventually. I’m gonna do the boots next and maybe replace the fuel filter yet.
Tigger is setup similarly to yours, 15% underdrive, 2% overdrive, JCW CAI, M7 Intercooler boots, Factory LSD, Milltek rear exhaust. Bosch 380cc Injectors and JCW tune and an aftermarket IC were my last upgrades and they did (according to my butt dyno) make a difference in acceleration from a standing start, as well as raising my rev limit (I think). He's at 197k+ and still has the original SC, valves, head etc. I AX him in the summers and have been using him as a DD for years.
I changed my fuel pump 2 summers ago when it wouldn't start when the cabin was hot (not when the engine was hot-go figure), it would also sometimes try to stall out at speed coming up the canyons, discussed it with my MINI tech and he also stated that the aftermarket coil packs didn't have the high rate recovery speed that the OEMs did, meaning that at high RPMs they can fail to get a full spark charge to the plugs.
I'm not sure if this helps at all or not, but FWIW, there it is.
Why the JCW tune? Wouldn’t a tune for your pulley setup have been more effective?
