Well sitting at a light and went to go when light turned green and car died, been running awesome the past few months. It turns over but won’t start. Fuel issue? Having it towed home now. Has all new plugs and wires in it. Fuel pump/filter? Not sure where to start but I’m guessing take plugs out first to check them and see if I’m getting spark. She’s a 2003 with 155k miles.

 

After tow truck dropped it off, I decided to try and start it again and it started right up and idled fine, as soon I gave it some gas it sputtered and died again, won’t start.

 

I had an older car that acted similarly. Turned out to be a clogged cat. Car would start fine, idle for a little while, but as soon as you tried to drive, it would stall and not start back up until the exhaust had an opportunity to de-pressurize. The car would also die if idling for too long. To check, you can try removing the primary O2 sensor to see if the car will idle longer.

 

I also had a similar issue with an old Honda and was about to tear into the fuel system. A dealership mechanic gave me a tip like njaremka’s, but to loosen each exhaust joint one at a time starting from the back, and to go for a test drive between each joint. It worked the first time due to the mufflers backing up. If I started from the from the front I wouldn’t have known which part of the exhaust was causing the problem.

 

My '05 MCS would not start if the interior got hot last summer, It turned out to be the fuel pump. I finally took it home (early in the morning) after it was at the local Indi shop for 2 weeks when they couldn't get it to recur, swapped the fuel pump and its golden since. I've been told that the FP can go out many different ways, I had a friend take his 335iX out to the track, and his died when he started it to go home, same thing- fuel pump, no warning. Go Figure.
Just a possibility....

 

well I ordered a fuel pump and new filter, hopefully that does the trick.

 

any codes ? A bad map can cause it to not idle and sputter out also ... imo I'd do a little investigating befor you parts throw at it. If it died and won't idle I'd assume there would be a cel present which should point you in the rite direction.
could you not hear the fuelpump whine when key on in the power on position? You should be able to hear it prime.. if your hearing it prime, it's more than likely not ur fuelpump.

 

I don’t hear anything coming from pump. The codes I’m getting were tuning rich in two cylinders, and a brake sensor codes. But those were there the whole two months I’ve owned it.

 

It's hard to miss. It sounds like someone's cell phone is buried under the left rear seat and is vibrating to announce an incoming call. About 3-5 second duration then it shuts off. Can always remove the rear seat bottom to have a better listen and feel the cover with your hand. If you don't hear / feel anything chances are good it's toast or soon to be. Theoretically also could be the pump relay going, located in the left hand kick panel, might be worth a look / swap it out for a known good one. Easier than...well, you know...

>'tuning rich' running rich?

Maybe list those codes here, even if they don't seem related, in case it helps anyone else weigh in to help.

 

Fuel pump. Need a new one.

bang on the back seat with ur hand to get it going as a temp fix

 

in true British car fashion

 

😝

 

It’s alive! Lol. New pump and filter did the trick.

 

Driving today I noticed the coolant temp went all the way up while sitting at a light, then immediately went to normal after I start driving.

thinking it’s the thermostat, lucky I still have one from my 04 MCS I will put in this next weekend, to see if it fix’s the issue. I’m hoping.

 

If temp is rising while not moving, I would say the fan isn’t working. If the thermostat was failed, temp would take too long to warm up.

 

Would check
(1) Expansion tank level, and the tank and cap for leaks.
(2) "When the tank turns brown, don't leave town." If you're running the plastic OEM one and it's brown, replace it leaking or not. It will blow up, and soon.
(3) As Nik says, verify fan running low speed at idle, cycling high with AC on at idle - if not, the usual culprit being the infamous resistor previously mentioned or connector near top of radiator
(4) "While you're in there" with the thermostat / gasket / housing (get an aluminum one from Uro) would replace coolant temp sensor preemptively. Big hoses, belt, SC service water pump, oil cooler hoses etc

 

when I raise the rpm to over 1200 it drops, while siting still.

 

Replaced with new thermostat and fixed the issue of high temp at idle. I did notice a small leak in the coolant tank where it is molded together and it is brown in color. So I will order an oem replacement. Don’t plan on having the car much longer. Otherwise I would opt for the aluminum one.